Hi guys
I will install a PC V with an autotune on my CBR 1000 RR 2005. I have couple of questions.
1) How deep should I weld the weld in bung for the O2 sensor? Does it matter if it is too out or too in in the pipe?
2)I didn't find exact instructions for the autotune installation on the 05 RR and I don't know where to put the red wire with the posi tap for power for the autotune. What cable should I tap it on?
3) the ground cable from the autotune can be installed on the negative pole of the battery or has to be on a ground bolt on the bike?
I"m not a fluid dynamics physicist but I'd make it project into the pipe as little as possible.
Why? the air/fuel ratio should be the same, which is what it measures, pretty much anywhere in the gas mix by the time it gets to your o2 sensor after the headers.
But... if you have the sensor set deep into the pipe it will be obstructing flow.
Wow I just connected my PC V to my PC and I loaded the stock map that is has on it to check it out... On high rpms and High throttle % I see numbers up to -40 :O
I plan to use the PC V with autotune to tune it. Should I let this map as a base map? Or 0 all the cells out and start from there?
I am afraid to run a map that will go -40% of fuel on high RPM than what I currently run because I don't know at the moment if it is lean or rich there... Imagine my mixture being lean at the moment and going -40% of fuel further
Suggestions?
When I started tuning my bike with the autotune, I used the map from the dynojet website as a base. Just start out with short rides, come back and make the adjustments.
If you're just running the bike on a stand, your numbers are going to be misleading. It has to be on the road/dyno.
You have to connect to the correct wires and have the gear ratios mapped. I have heard that dynojet can give you numbers, but I haven't tried. Other way is to get it on the dyno and map them.
I connected the pcV and the autotune together then connected to the negative of the battery. I did this so I didn't have too many connections at the battery.
Also, I had some problems with the splice connections supplied with the pcV and autotune so I soldered the connections together.
Good luck with the install, I noticed a difference in throttle response once I had the map smoothed out with the autotune. :thumbup:
Ground of PCV and Autotune need to go to a good chassis ground. This can be the negative side of the battery or the common ground on the frame (junction of green wires). This second location doesn't normally work on street bikes due to the harness length.
One more question guys!
Where can I tap the posi tap from the autotune to draw power on it? It has to be somewhere close to the battery. Is the tail light power cable passing close to the battery?
Anyone that can help?
Thanks but the 2 wires from autotune, Power and Ground wires, are close to each other and the one has to go to the negative pole. So the power wire has to connect somewhere around the battery :/.
Anyone with a 2004-2007 RR 1000 that knows?
Or at least someone that knows what color is the 12V tail light wire? Because the brake (tail light) cable is there too and I don't know how to tell them appart
So i finally installed my PC+Autotune and had my first session.
In most of the rev range autotune subtracted fuel up to 20%. There were some few spots that it added fuel like close to the rev limiter but most of it is minus values. It bugs me though cause I thought that when a full exhaust system is installed the mixture usually leans out but mine shows to be way rich!! The afr values I gave the autotune are 13.4-13.2.
Should I trust the autotune leaning my mixture?
Depending on the map you used (the dynojet maps run really rich) that is normal at the start. I bought the lcd screen so I can view the afr realtime, it's great. Plus you can load maps on there and swap them on the fly.
One thing I can tell you is not to autotune all the RPM and throttle % ranges. Like anything below 10% throttle and below 3-4k RPM.
Plus there are certain areas where you are decelerating regularly that you get a false lean reading where it's going to try to add fuel where it doesn't need it.
To stop this, always try to take the throttle position all the way to zero (0) when stopping or slowing. It doesn't tune in those areas so won't affect your map.
Cool so the bike really does run rich with full exhaust system and KN filter... I would expect it to run lean but it is the other way around as it seems
I've been running my bike on autotune for a couple of seasons now. Haven't had any problems. Like I said, the lcd screen gives you a little peace of mind cause you can see the afr realtime.
Yeah man
I mean that the bike without the power commander and on full exhaust system with KN filter is running rich cause with the autotune set up for 13.4 afr the power commander is leaning the mixture
Ok I have an update. After some more sessions I see numbers at 80 and 100% throttle and from 10.000 to 12.000 rpm that range from 40 to 60.... Are those numbers normal? Is it possible that it needed 60% more fuel close to the rev limiter? Other than feeling that the numbers are too big the bike feels like a beast now!!!! A lot more powerful especially top!
It seems a little much to me. There is a setting to limit the amount it can adjust in one session. I have mine set to +/- 20% max.
Like I said, sometimes if you hold the throttle open while decelerating it can cause false lean readings which can cause unusually high adjustments in the power commander. Everybody rides different and I have a couple areas on my map where it tries to add fuel but it's not needed. You have to use your judgement when accepting the trims. I would change your setting to only make adjustments at 20% max per session.
I am back with a question. Does anyone know if the 05 1000 has the option to connect tha PC5 for different msp on each gear? IF so how do i do it? Where is the cable that I have to tap into with my pc5 gear cable?
You will need to run a wire (18-22g) from the PINK/GRN wire of the speed sensor into the PCV. See page 2 of the PCV install guide. Once you have done this you calibrate speed in the software. Then go to GEAR calibration and pick GEAR RATIO and then calibrate gear.
Hi again guys. I bring back the thread because I am messing with my afr targets again.
I have created an AFR map and plan to use it on my 1000RR.
Can someone that is experienced with this tell me if I have done a good map or if it needs any changes?
Seems a little leaner than I like to run. I have mine setup between 12.9 (high RPM), 13.8 (highway rpm), and around 13.2 everywhere else.
I felt at the higher rpms it liked more fuel. Also, play around with the accel pump feature once you get the map setup. I like the way that works. You can burn fuel if you're heavy on the throttle though, lol.
I only have personal experience with the autotune. Never put the bike on a dyno besides the butt dyno.
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