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2012 Torque Specs F and R Wheels

15K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  Kruz 
#1 ·
I was unnable to download that PDF manual for the '12 CBR1000RR, anyone have the specs handy for:

Rear axle nut torque

Front axle nut torque

Front axle pinch bolt torque

Front brake caliper bolt torque

Thanks!

John
 
#3 ·
I had to buy my manual. It cost me $70.



A rich guy like you can't afford a book?

Maybe you could sell one of your bikes to raise some extra cash.

He's just asking for help that's what the forums are for. I just gave mine to the local shop since I sold my blade. He won't be back till Wednesday so I can't get you the info until then.





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#5 ·
Thanks Jerrel, The info was actually in the owners manual and I was finally able to download the online PDF manual. A couple of interesting points, the factory service manual specifies to change the brake caliper bolts every time they are removed. That surprised me as I've never seen this before on any of my bikes. Is there a reason for this change that anyone is aware of? I'm wondering if there has been some failures reusing the bolts?

Second point, I followed the manual procedure on torquing the front pinch bolts to the letter, pumped the front forks, squeezed the front brake lever and followed the specified sequence torquing the pinch bolts and still have some residual drag on the front rotors. I checked it before removing the front wheel and got thee full turns of the front wheel with a light spin. When I was finished I got only one full turn with the same effort, admittedly not very scientific but significantly more drag. I've noticed this same thing on my '07 CBR1000RR, it seems to be a Honda thing as none of my Kawasakis do this. Does anyone have a better method, I'm guessing there is a very slight realignment of the pads relative to the rotors resulting in some drag. On my '07 it seems to eventually realign or wear the pads in and the drag is reduced.
 
#7 ·
A couple of interesting points, the factory service manual specifies to change the brake caliper bolts every time they are removed. That surprised me as I've never seen this before on any of my bikes. Is there a reason for this change that anyone is aware of? I'm wondering if there has been some failures reusing the bolts?
Might have something to do with shearing of the threads or stretching of the bolt, although the torque spec is fairly low for the grade of bolt that's in there. I have taken the caliper bolts out a few times and didn't change them out. Just inspect them each time for stress, don't over-torque them, and use some loctite.

Second point, I followed the manual procedure on torquing the front pinch bolts to the letter, pumped the front forks, squeezed the front brake lever and followed the specified sequence torquing the pinch bolts and still have some residual drag on the front rotors. I checked it before removing the front wheel and got thee full turns of the front wheel with a light spin. When I was finished I got only one full turn with the same effort, admittedly not very scientific but significantly more drag.
Have you cleaned your calipers/pistons recently? Maybe the pads are not retracting fully and are dragging on the rotor.
 
#8 ·
Bike is brand new and wasn't dragging before wheel removal. It's OK though, seems to have worked itself out after a couple of rides.
 
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