'08 mid fairing removal - Page 16 : Honda CBR 1000RR Motorcycle Forums: 1000RR.net

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Old 09-17-2012, 12:59 PM   #151
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Once you get the procedure down, pulling the plastics on this bike is cake. Just set aside a block of time, do things in order, and keep all removed clips/fasteners in a place where you won't lose any of them.

Having the proper tools is a huge help too. Proper hex wrench for the allen bolts, and a small philips-head screwdriver for the small plastic clips that are found inside the inner cowlings flanking the radiator.
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Old 09-30-2012, 08:46 AM   #152
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Together Again, '09 Repsol

Together Again, '09 Repsol

Finally replaced the HR relay. (circled in photo) Hope that was the problem with my intermittent headlight). Finally she's all back together.

Once again, with this bike, every single little thing is an unexpected puzzle/delay. Just trying to figure out how some of the tiny plastic retaining clips work can take a few minutes! Getting the ram air to fit back into the airbox wasn't easy on the right side. And the upper inner covers take patience to correctly seat those weird split-head retainers.

Of course, just as you all said, when you do it a few times, the lower fairings get easier - but only slightly. Getting the hoses in place by the sidestand - even that's a Royal B__ch! A definite tip is, when assembling the lowers back, line up the tabs next to the engine, the two tabs that are on the side that slide into the mid cowl, before you try to slide the bottom in. Because you really can't fix those if they miss, once the bottom snaps together. Also, BIG tip - you need two hands to assemble the bottom, on each side. You have to hold it and guide it at the same time. I have a large piece of soft cardboard so I can lay down flat while doing it. Have a front and rear stand is a huge help also. And I Armor-All'd all those tabs liberally before I put re-assembled, which I think also helped a lot. Those tabs see the most grit of any part of the bike.

I have one screw-style retaining clip left over. I'm pretty sure it's from the vaccuum assembly reservoir (flapper mod) or one of those related pieces that was removed.

A good tip when replacing the nose cowl is, leave it loose so you can lift it and make positioning the mirror/signal wires easier. Don't tighten the mirror nuts down, or even put them on, until you have the wires where they need to be. Also, I used SilGlide libricant on the connectors and they separate and connect much easier.

Also took a moment to adjust the throttle cable. 8mm and 10mm wrenches fit the fasteners. It was a tiny bit sloppy after 20K.
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'08 mid fairing removal-repsol_back.jpg   '08 mid fairing removal-repsol_nose.jpg  

'08 mid fairing removal-repsol_hrrelay.jpg  
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:28 PM   #153
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Flame me if you must because I missed something/am confused, but do you have to remove the lower to remove the middle fairing? I low sided at the track and need to replace the middle fairing on my 2012 cbr 1000rr. Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:57 PM   #154
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bottome first then work your way up... just did this half way and gave up its hard as hell dude. i wish i found this thread b4 i started, might have made it ez
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:19 PM   #155
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I just did this job. I am anything but a first rate mechanic. The plastic pieces fit together with tabs and hooks. My 2012 was a little different than the pics of the '08 in this thread. I found the job not terribly difficult, but I did work slowly. It can be done much faster. The only problem I had was the "inner cowl" (black piece of trim) has one tab that fits into tab with a hole on the middle cowl that was just too tight. The tab broke on the middle cowl (I am replacing it anyway) I shaved just a hair of plastic off to expand the hole on the new middle cowl and everything else fit together without too much trouble. You just have to do some jiggling to get the pieces together.
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:21 PM   #156
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ps I did not have to remove the air scoops in front.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:10 AM   #157
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Middle cowl RAM air fit - still not perfect on right side

Maybe it's cause the bike was down on that side with the 1st owner. Maybe you won't have this problem. But I Armour All'd the s__t out of both the RAM air receiver from the airbox and the male end on the cowl, hoping it would slide in easily during reassembly. I thought it was "money", but no. Take 2, with more playing and wiggling the next time I have to put it all back together. The rubber gasket that serves as a finish piece where the upper cowl meets the alloy keeps coming loose and looking verklempt. It's obviously not all the way in, but like I said, I lubed it and spent a lot of time seating it when I was putting everything back together, patient and careful. And it's still not mating up properly. This bike is a Bee-Otch with the fairings for sure.

But like I said, could be because the bike was down on that side.
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FIAMM Freeway blaster horns/Repsol 4T Racing 3L oil/SportRider suggested suspension settings (preload left stock)
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:31 PM   #158
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Removed/replaced lower fairing for the 4th(?) time

Remove/replaced lower fairing for the 4th(?) time

After this latest oil change on my 2009 CBR1000RR I just replaced the lowers for about the 4th or 5th time.
(No, you DON'T have to take the middle cowls off to do your oil. I had about 5K on the Repsol 10W-40 that was in there, more than usual. BECAUSE THIS PROCESS SUCKS!!!)

And here are some useful tips for you... (before I go any further, I don't want to forget to mention I have front and rear stands, and I go out of my way to put the bike up on both stands to do my oil changes. The xtra height makes it a lot easier.)

1) When you disassemble the lower, you only have to take off 4 allen screws - 2 of them, farthest back on each side, go into aluminum and have that built in flange. When re-assembling you need to snug these up pretty good. The other two nearer the engine covers go into the rubber mounts with the metal inserts. Go really easy w/ these. Stop turning after you feel resistance.

2) When you pull the lower off, you pull backwards and on a downward angle. Pull GENTLY. Knock it with your knuckles where it attaches, and shimmy it up and down and left and right as you tug. Chances are there's a lot of road grime and pebbles and stuff in there. It sticks. Put something under the bike to soften when the pastic hits the ground. I use big old flat styrofoam pieces.

3) Clean the plastic very well after you take it apart - all the grooves, tabs and slots. Uppers too. Use Pledge if you're in a hurry, or a papertowel with a little bit of engine oil on it, or do it right with Dawn and a sponge. It's really important to get the nose of that lower cowl really clean. It's very three -dimensional the way it fits, so make sure you check all sides.

4) Lube the hell out of the tabs and slots on both the lower and the uppers. This time I used NAPA Sil-Glyde. Worked great. For every surface, tab and slot use a tiny bit. Makes a BIG difference.

5) When you put the lower back on, before you attempt to fit it, attach the one allen bolt on the left side near the kickstand. Of course, don't tighten it, just screw it enough that it holds the fairing. Stay on that side of the bike and lay down on your side. (Once again, old styrofoam, cardboard, or foam floor tiles work great to makes this comfortable.) Before you go crazy with the Rubik's Cube puzzle (the middle where the lower meets the two uppers) you have to fit the telescoping strut over the engine cover. After I do that part, and making sure it stays put, I reach in with my left hand to support the bottom, and work the upper and lower together with both hands. Feel around the bottom - there's a horizontal tab that has to go in before any of the rest of it. Tilt it back and forth gently, squeezing and playing with it. It's a complex fit, and there's absolutely no substitute for experience here. But doing it from the left side first with that one bolt in, and remembering the strut goes in first, will save you some aggravation.

6) Once you get the left side (kickstand side) together, carefully (like the bomb squad) release your grip on it and go lay down on the other side of the bike. Fit the high telescoping tab on the right first, like before, and complete the puzzle on the right side bottom, using two hands and keeping the assembled side from popping out. When you finally get it together correctly, and you'll know by the tight seams and because the very bottom will be perfectly smooth, no exposed tabs, you'll need to babysit the fit while you attach the screw on the right side nearest the engine cover. (the soft mount one) I actually was lifting my leg to steady my left hand holding the T-wrench while holding the cowls with my right, laying on my side... RIDICULOUS.

The soft mount screw will hold the cowls together while you go back around to the left side and put in the soft mount one there. The last one that goes in is the hard mount by the exhaust pipe. Then don't forget to tighten the chain side bolt last.

This process is much harder than it should be. "STUPID HARD" , not stupid hurts, should be Honda's slogan these days.
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FIAMM Freeway blaster horns/Repsol 4T Racing 3L oil/SportRider suggested suspension settings (preload left stock)
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Old 04-17-2013, 02:11 PM   #159
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What kind of glue can i put to this.The glue from factory has dried and now pop ups .
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:29 AM   #160
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Lightbulb

No glue should be needed.
The little tab on the rubber that you can see on the below image holds it in place when mounted correctly.

Click to see large image.

Link to DIY article about upper inner cover

Link to DIY article about middle cowl

If you anyway wants to glue it, you can use 10 sec. instant glue (e.g. Loctite Super Glue). This works very well for rubber.

... Fred
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