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C-ABS issues

102K views 258 replies 70 participants last post by  Yosh 
#1 ·
Whats up guys. Had my brand new 09 blade for 2 weeks. Bought a black with C-ABS. Absolutely love it.

Put 600kms on it so far and this morning when I turned it off, there was some buzzing continuing somewhere in the bike. When I touched the brakes (front or rear) I could hear clanking / clicking like the c-ABS system was still on and the motors / solenoids were still engaged.

Thought it may be some self checking going on or something so left it. Came back after 1 hour and the battery is flat.

Anyone had similar issues with their C-ABS????

Battery is now on charge and hopefully this is a one off but I not sure if I am out of the woods yet.
 
#4 · (Edited)
mine is also abs! us spec!
that is exactly what happened to me before(only once though)
what i did was as same as u did.
i used jumper cables to start the bike and i rode for 30 mins to recharge the battery!
after that, it never happened again, so far.
i was kinda scare that my bike got fuck up, but it wasn't.
i still dont know why but it must be nothing.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Yeah, like a high pitch whine and serious loud clanks and clicks when you touch the brakes. Its almost as if some relay forgot to kill power to the C-ABS and it is still working with the bike off. This makes sense as I remember the C-ABS light never came on when I cycled the ign while it was doign this (the system must have stayed on for some reason). Fking scary though. Put the battery back in and all seems well. y32dsm, how long ago did this happen to you?

Here she is:
 

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#11 ·
when i had around 1500 miles and it never came back so far. now i got 2600 miles. i think it happened in july....
average riders or street posers won't notice the difference of weight...
am i poser?:th_SmlyROFL: still learning though....
at least i ride faster than 120 all the time..:th_SmlyROFL:
abs already saved my ass couple times.
fucking white bitch around mid 50 in da cage tried to hit me on purpose...
i had to break craaaaaaazy as hell. i obviously felt abs worked...
the second time, another fucking white bitch around 40 in da trash cage did hard breaking on purpose cuz she saw me tailgating...bia~~~~ch!!
i almost hit her ass!!! abs also worked perfectly!!!
how come fucking white bitches around 40-50 in da trash cage always try to hit me? why? still wonder.....
 
#8 ·
I hear you, but if it saves my arse once then its worth it. Tried both before buying and I never noticed the weight but was only street riding. Never noticed any difference in brake feel and did attempt to lock up the ABS bike and could feel the system working (bit of a dead feel to the lever).

Hopefully this ABS problem will not resurface but will be keeping an eye open for other ABS bikes that do the same. The dealer in WA said there were not a lot of ABS bikes sold here and had no experience with them in terms of reported problems.

Gotta love black!
 
#20 ·
The bike did the same thing again this morning......not happy.

continuous high pitched whine when off and clacking of soleniods / motors when touching the brakes. Pulled the seat and disconnected / reconnected battery and its fine. Something is not shutting off properly some of the time.
 
#21 ·
how much more does the abs version cost compared to the non abs? how much more does it weigh? You have to condider that the GoldWing has had ABS and traction control for awile now, so i think Honda would have a good system, only rode my uncles BMW with traction control and abs and it was nice. Just like everything else the first couple years theres a few bugs to work out and you have to get used to it.
 
#24 ·
Well, I'm having some battery problems; I bought mine in April 09 in Portugal. From April to October everything was fine, since October I have to change the battery 3 times. Without any advice the battery dies. In Honda they change it in warranty; they make all measures in charge and without charge and everything seem ok, but in 3 months, 3 batteries gone.
Does anyone have same problem?
Mine is CABS too.
 
#25 ·
jam
does your sometimes make a whining noise and make solenoid noises when its shut off sometimes??? Pull the C-ABS fuses and see if the problem goes away. The brakes will still work as a normal non C-ABS like this.
 
#28 ·
I never thought about it being the ABS system - I always figured it might be an intermittent alternator issue. But now you guys mention it, it does make sense.

I had this same problem a couple of weeks after getting my bike. The first time I never heard the buzzing but the bike wouldn't start the next morning after riding it all day the day before. I jump started it and went for a ride and it was all good for few days until I rolled into the garage and turned it off only to hear a subtle but high pitched buzzing noise. Listening close for it, I traced to to under the seat. I pulled the seat and put the multi meters on the battery and checked it every half hour. Within 2hrs the bike wouldn't start.

I put the battery on charge over night and there were no issues for about 1 month until I rolled into the garage again and was met by the same sound when I turned it off. I started it up again, gave it a few revs and turned it off and the buzzing was gone. It's now got 6000km on it and not had a problem since. However I do find myself keeping an ear out for it just in case.

I would be interested to hear what others have found to be the cause of this intermittent problem and what they've done to actually fix it other than hope for the best like I have done so far.

Thanks in advance all.
 
#30 ·
I started in 2 wheels with 12 and now at 50 I bought my first ABS motorcycle model. I sold the 2006 Fireblade and it was hard to convince myself to buy the CABS model at this Blade. The CBR1000RR is my priority vehicle, use it every day all the week, no matter if it is raining or shining. Fortunately I decided at that moment to buy the CABS one, after this one all my bikes will have ABS. I changed a lot the bike, 2 gold Marchesini, Braking brakes, 520 transmission, rapid throttle, but these are changes that we can do every bike. ABS we have to buy with the bike.
I will never buy a non ABS system.
 
#32 ·
*First post*
I too have had this happen. Had it happen to me about a month ago, turned it off, buzzing noise, started it, turned it off, didnt go away. Noticed ABS light was not on when i turned it on. Rode down my driveway to go over 10kmh (it sounded like it was coming from the abs module and light wasnt working so figured it had something to do with abs) turned it off and noise was gone. Turned it back on and ABS light came on as normal and bike went back to normal. The other night i went out with some mates, parked and it was quite loud where we went. Came back to the bike about 3 hrs later and it was dead. Clutch started it and rode it for a bit and had no dramas after but assume that it was the ABS module staying on or something and cos it was loud i didnt hear it.
 
#33 · (Edited)
2009 - Black C-ABS: Same thing happened to me today. Riding to work this morning, did 80kph (50mph) for about 2 minutes. Stopped at a set of traffic lights for 2 minutes. Turned right down a service road and next thing the bike started to slow down. The motor sounded like it was labouring, so I pulled in the clutch. Went to use the front brake and the lever felt like the front brake was pulled on solid already.

Next thing the bike stopped still, motor still going. Luckily I had already pulled over close to the left side of the road (Australians drive on left lane). Next thing the bike is frozen because the front brake is locked on. I try turning off the bike, and even locking the steering and removing the key but the front brake won't release. I am still in the way of traffic and everything to release the front brake does not work.

Last resort, I remove the bolt holding the front brake lever and remove the lever entirely. Success!!! Front brake is released.

So I continue to ride to work. Work 9 hours. Bike starts fine and I ride home (still minus front brake).

I reinstall the front brake lever and do a test run in my driveway on wet cement to check the ABS. It sounds and feels like it's working. I turn it off. I test the front brake again with the ignition off, but now I hear the clanking and gurgling under the seat as previously mentioned in this thread. I turn it off and on again. The ABS light is showing. I start it and idle it. All good.

As soon as I turn it off and use the front brake I can still hear the sounds mentioned. I remember reading this thread and come and read it again. (After 20 minutes of tracking down and reading this thread) I rush back to start my bike. Too late, the battery is dead.

I jump start it and take it for a ride for 20 minutes. Return home and turn it off.

No more sounds when I pull the front brake lever when it is turned off, and the battery is recharged from the ride.

First and only complaint on an otherwise fantastic bike. Sorry about the long reply, but I need to compare my experience to others to find out what activates this fault. I do a lot of hill twisty riding and I don't want to be stuck on a corner with a bike frozen hearing more bikes coming around the corner towards me at a fast rate of knots.

Here is a suggestion, have I inadvertently activated some sort of diagnostic mode? Or, when I tested the bike on my driveway (when I replaced the lever) and didn't get above 6 kph (4mph) did I leave the ABS activated when I turned it off.

Now I have heard it, I will be tuning off the bike and test pulling the front brake lever every time I turn off the bike to see if the gremlin has returned. Hope this will help find the solution. I look forward to any replies/comments/suggestions.
 
#34 ·
2009 - Black C-ABS: Same thing happened to me today. Riding to work this morning, did 80kph (50mph) for about 2 minutes. Stopped at a set of traffic lights for 2 minutes. Turned right down a service road and next thing the bike started to slow down. The motor sounded like it was labouring, so I pulled in the clutch. Went to use the front brake and the lever felt like the front brake was pulled on solid already.

Next thing the bike stopped still, motor still going. Luckily I had already pulled over close to the left side of the road (Australians drive on left lane). Next thing the bike is frozen because the front brake is locked on. I try turning off the bike, and even locking the steering and removing the key but the front brake won't release. I am still in the way of traffic and everything to release the front brake does not work.

Last resort, I remove the bolt holding the front brake lever and remove the lever entirely. Success!!! Front brake is released.

So I continue to ride to work. Work 9 hours. Bike starts fine and I ride home (still minus front brake).

I reinstall the front brake lever and do a test run in my driveway on wet cement to check the ABS. It sounds and feels like it's working. I turn it off. I test the front brake again with the ignition off, but now I hear the clanking and gurgling under the seat as previously mentioned in this thread. I turn it off and on again. The ABS light is showing. I start it and idle it. All good.

As soon as I turn it off and use the front brake I can still hear the sounds mentioned. I remember reading this thread and come and read it again. (After 20 minutes of tracking down and reading this thread) I rush back to start my bike. Too late, the battery is dead.

I jump start it and take it for a ride for 20 minutes. Return home and turn it off.

No more sounds when I pull the front brake lever when it is turned off, and the battery is recharged from the ride.

First and only complaint on an otherwise fantastic bike. Sorry about the long reply, but I need to compare my experience to others to find out what activates this fault. I do a lot of hill twisty riding and I don't want to be stuck on a corner with a bike frozen hearing more bikes coming around the corner towards me at a fast rate of knots.
I put on my robe and wizard hat.
 
#35 · (Edited)
Very interesting. I should show my dealer this thread as he probably thought I was imagining this or something. Whats more alarming is that hayabusahunter bike put the brakes on all by itself if I understand the post correctly.....WTF? that is very scary.

I have also got into the habbit of listening to the bike an putting the brakes on with the ign off to make sure the C-ABS solenoids are not 'clacking'.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Okay ... Don't panic!! I have taken my bike to the local guru "with contacts" and this is the latest as of 6 hours ago.

The initial locking of my brakes was due to a fault in ME (yes that is myself) incorrectly installing my after market levers (yes my bike has some aftermarket additions). The little hollowed mount inside the lever was not lined up with the plunger on the hydraulic rod and got stuck causing the brake to initiate a phase that kept on "feeling" the lever until it fully compressed. This may be an issue for C_ABS bikes with after market levers. I am doing some drilling and modifying in 12hrs time so I will be able to give results.

BUT .... the second issue with the brakes not disengaging in the afternoon is ANOTHER issue. It appears that something has triggered the ABS not to disengage and it has kept on functioning despite the bike being turned off. This should not happen. The guru did the diagnostic tests and it showed up errors 43 and 44. The first is "Front valve unit malfunction" and the second is "Rear Unit Malfunction".

What he did was checked the codes. Turned the bike off. Started it and reset the code errors. Took it for a 5 minute test ride. Stopped it. Did the diagnostic codes check which showed no errors. So unit has reset and all is again good (apparently).

So ... what I am going to do is install a switch so that I can check the codes at any time I wish on the roadside without touching anything more than a switch and the bike key. It is really easy and I am going to do a photo of installation and publish the error codes from the Honda CBR1000RR C-ABS manual (I only have 2 pages of error codes pages for the ABS version before you all start asking for any more pages) with instructions on how to activate and clear error codes so that you can check the error codes before you think you are going crazy and hesitate taking it to your dealer. The error code checking switch and codes that I know are only for the C-ABS bikes.

THE BOTTOM LINE.
The fault of the front brake locking up was MY fault. But if you have after market levers, make sure that the plunger on the hydraulic rod fits it properly for the front brake lever. You have been warned.

The fault of the ABS not turning off when they key is tuned off is still under investigation, and after my little rant at a Honda dealer I know that Honda Japan are aware of this thread and of my email that I sent them and I have seen their reply that they are definitely looking at it.

I stress that at this stage, I am confident that this is is NOT A SAFETY ISSUE. More of a battery flattening issue, that I am determined to get to the bottom of. I will post the installation of the error code checker switch and codes if anyone is interested?
 
#37 ·
you may think I am bulshitting but after I posted, I was gonna ask if you fucked with the lever becuase I did exactly the same thing with the plunger and had resulting inconsistencies in front brake. Agree its not a safety issue and your previous experience has nothing to do with the C-ABS. It probably wont be an ABS specific issue with levers as I think they all use the same radial master cylinder, just need to be careful when installing.

Anyway, my issues were before the aftermarket levers so we can definitely park that one.

Note that the C-ABS fails safe. Any power loss or erratic / out of range operation reverts the system back to normal brakes by the use of fail safe solenoids. I have seen the hydraulic circuit diagram and have no issues with respect to the safety integrity of the system (I'm also an engineer and know electrohydraulic systems very well). Just the occasional non-powering down of the ABS brain solenoids and pump is a concern. If mine does it again I will record it on my camera phone, please try do the same.
 
#38 ·
Hi people,
After read this post's I send it to my local dealer that asked Honda for that situation and they knew it and Honda is already working on it. It looks like we will have new software for the CABS model that will solve that ABS/battery problem.
 
#40 ·
As far as they say this new software will solve the issue.
But probably it will be necessary to replace some ABS components.
is not schedule for now but will be a recall for this "operation".
Hope it won't take too long.
If I get any new I will let you know.
 
#41 ·
ABS Indicator Diagnostic Trouble Code Index

Here it is. Ready for Printing. Instructions to follow soon.
 

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#42 ·
Combined ABS Indicator Diagnostic Trouble Code Switch Installation

1. Remove both seats and battery.
2. Under battery you will see a red plug going into a dummy holder.
3. Remove plug from holder.
4. Remove wires from plug and discard plug.
5. Attach about 50 centimetres of auto electrical cable to each wire.
6. Feed through to under passenger seat.
7. Attach to a switch.
8. When you want to check the ABS Indicator Diagnostic code, remove the passenger seat and turn on switch.

How to Read the Error Codes:
1. Have ignition key off.
2. Turn ABS Indicator Diagnostic switch on.
3. Turn on ignition.
4. The ABS light will flash once to confirm ABS Indicator Diagnostic code mode is on.
5. It may (or may not) then start a series of flashes.
6. E.G. Error code 34 would be three long flashes and four short flashes. There may be more than one error code so it is important to keep watching the sequence.
7. At the end of the error code sequence, it flashes once to advise that it is about to repeat the error code sequence again.
8. (I think, but I am not sure) to reset the error codes you have to hold on the front brake lever with the switch turned on as you turn the ignition on. But I will check this next week.
9. Turn off ignition. Turn off ABS Indicator Diagnostic switch. Restart bike and take it for a 5 minute test ride (over 10kph). ABS is fully reset.
 

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#43 · (Edited)
Mine just did it again after I racked up a couple of hundred km's this morning. Got home turned it off.

Could hear a dull electrical whine coming from the bike. Checked the front brake. It's back again.

I remembered that while I was out this morning I adjusted the front brake lever to max out (Setting number 1). So I hopped back on the bike and while I rode around the block I wound it back to mid (setting number 3).

Got home. Turned ignition off. ABS turned off. I am wondering if this problem is related to pressure on the plunger from the lever? I'll take if for another run this afternoon on setting 1 to see if I can replicate the problem.

I ran the diagnostic check and it showed no error messages.
 
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