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Fixes for cracked plastic

2K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  Hardcore 
#1 ·
Here's a close up of the inside of the snoot (nose piece) of my '09. The owner before me admitted to an unplanned get-off, and sure enough, here's more evidence of that slam. I replaced the headlamp relay a few years back but I didn't notice this at that time. Unless it happened on my watch but I don't think so... no hard concussions since I've had her.

Anyway, safety wire can fix a lot of things, including my front porch railing! (Maybe I'll post that later.) Safety wire plus gorilla glue. I used a large safety pin held with pliers over a flame, and did a hot poke job to make the holes. Was originally gonna do them with a Dremel, but the angle and access is pretty tough - hot poke is the way to go sometimes.

Next time I get her all apart (I hope it's a long while, I really don't enjoy this nonsense) I will let you know if the glue held. The other thing that was damaged (besides an obvious paint scrape on the edge of my front wheel) is one of the little molded plastic "pins" that serve as a windscreen stay. It cracked clean off. You may know what I mean... you count down three bolt holes on the windscreen on either side. The third one is not for a fastener, it's for a plastic French-cut alignment piece that is molded as part of the front nose piece. I'm not worried about that - it's fine without it.

Next fix is an idea I have to repair the broken plastic "lip" that acts as a catch for the battery bungee. I broke that in the wintertime changing the battery. Here's a tip when releasing/setting the battery bungee... Don't try to manipulate it down by where it catches the plastic lip on the battery box. Just grab it along the top with a pliers that won't rip it up (like a smooth needlenose) and stretch it until you create enough slack so that it just comes off. That was stupid on my part.

These bikes run so well for so long, I forget how to do the simplest maintenance chores sometimes.

If I can find my shop manual I will re-post the pages on how to remove the fairings. It's already on these boards though.
 

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#2 ·
I had pretty much an identical problem (boot hung up in factory heel guard, no foot down means gravity wins).

I used safety wire (drilled) and an epoxy designed for plastic that I got from the local Ace Hardware. I wanted to make sure it would hold up to track speeds (160mph on the straight). It has held up for the last 3+ years. Of course I changed the rearsets to one with a very different design for the heel guard so I haven't dropped the bike since then either.
 
#4 ·
plastic weld



Yes I like this idea. Good incentive to save your old s__t broken parts and the like. Gorilla glue, well, I don't know how well it's going to hold up, but I can tell you I am never gonna trust that 2 part Devcon 5 minute epoxy again. Even after cleaning and scoring and then cleaning again, that 2 part stuff is shite. Plastic weld with dripping hot molten plastic, like napalm, that's the s__t.

To that other post, sorry about what happened with your boot catching the peg. I just hate unfortunate incidents like that. "Almost" happened to me a few times with my bikes. I can't tell you why almost is in quotes either.
 
#6 ·
Fix for cracked battery bungee hook, leading side

I cracked the molded hook on the battery box (forward end) of my '09 during a battery change in the bitter cold. Before this "permanent" fix (Permanent? Only time will tell...) I was using a piece of 5/8" foam floor tile between the battery (YUASA YTZ7S) and the seat to hold it down.

I fabricated a new batt box hook from a strip of light sheet metal. I can't remember what that metal was for, originally. It was in my spare parts bin. With a two pair of pliers, one to hold, one to bend, I curled the top into a hook shape.

I attached my custom part using safety wire. I made two holes in the batt box with a hot safety pin, then used a small piece of safety wire to stick through while holding the new piece in place, and was able to scratch marks in the metal so I knew exactly where to punch and drill.
Getting the wire threaded through, snug and fastened took some patience.

Upon attempting to reinstall the bungee I realized just how tight the factory bungee is... maybe too much tension for my new hook to bear. Also it was lying around fully contracted for days. That didn't help. I stretched the rubber between two points using nylon cord tied with an adjustable friction hitch for about 1/2 a day and it was much easier to install after being stretched out.

Read more: After first beating myself up a bit about breaking the attachment point in my batt box, I next entertained the idea of replacing that whole interior tray piece. That notion lasted about 4 seconds. Never even priced it - it was the potential work involved that killed it. My notion about attaching the new hook with two tiny screws and nuts almost played out, but only days before I fixed a different cracked plastic piece with safety wire, and I was inspired at the last minute wire this one as well. As it happens, the remaining nub of the hook I cracked off helps to hold the new piece in place. Some of the stress of the rubber strap pulling upward is distributed to what's left of that molded hook, and not all of it is on the wire and holes I made.
 

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