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Cranks, but no Start, New plugs.

21K views 21 replies 11 participants last post by  Clint.Beastwood 
#1 ·
Well, I rode my 2008 last week with no issues. Had to go TDY to Alabama for a week. Come back and it cranks but doesn't start. I replaced the Battery, Plugs, and checked the tip over sensor. I also checked all the fuses and relays. Oh and it isn't throwing any codes. Next will be to drain the fuel and replace it in the tank. Anyone have any other ideas. I have done a few searches and have hit a wall.
 
#2 ·
Is the stop switch on?
 
#8 ·
had the same thing over winter, turns out it was just a low battery (thought the trickle charger was on and it wasn't), even though the cranking sounded fine. You said you replaced the battery, sounds dumb but just making sure its fully charged?

You said the pump primes, do you actually havefuel pressure? becareful, if you disconnect the quick-connect, and prime the pump (turn the key on), fuel will spray, sounds dumb, but easily done when your in the middle of things. Guilty.

you replaced the plugs, but are you actually getting spark? I bet it something really simple.
 
#9 ·
Ok, made sure that the new battery had a full charge, I still hear the fuel pump prime, have the new spark plugs installed but not 100% sure that I am getting spark. Just won't start.
 
#12 ·
Ok just went and tried to start again, but it only cranked without starting. This time there was a smell of Exhaust( small ignition inside the cylinders) this is the first time I have smelled it. I have the garage doors closed without ventillation hooked up so I think i would have smelled it before. No changes other than what is listed above.
 
#13 ·
Alright, let it sit all day, then went and tried to start it, it didnt start right up but IT DID START and when I went to twist the throttle about 20 seconds after running, it died and wouldn't start back up? Anyone have the same same experience or insight?
 
#14 ·
Fresh Gas, Heet, and she finally started up after some coaxing. let her run until operating temperature, then tried to throttle up gradually to around 4000 rpm and let off fairly slowly and she died, now cant get her started again. HMMMMM!
 
#15 ·
Ok, Let the heet sit in with the fresh gas overnight, got up cranked for about 2 seconds and fired up. Let it run to operating temperature, then rolled on to about 4000 rpm let off and it remained running and now cranks up everytime. Must have been the fuel. Thats all I can think of.
 
#22 ·
This exact same thing happened to my friends 09 gsxr 1000, after we installed his bazzaz unit. We fired it up the bike ran fine and everything was good. Once we had put the tank back on and the bike back together, we had the same issue you are describing. The bike wouldn't start without giving it gas an wouldn't idle. Turns out when we put the tank on a little vacuum line became disconnected, very hard to trouble shoot and took a few hours to find. My suggestion to you (if you haven't done it already) is to pull it all a part and go over every little connection and line in and around where you were working. Let us know how it all plays out.


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#18 ·
This happened to me a couple years ago- Check your oil level.... if its too high, the bike won't run.

I had been adding the manual-prescribed levels of oil at each change not realizing how much residual was left in the motor. Took it to two dealerships before they figured it out. Something about a level sensor that won't let the bike run (at least without a handful of grip) so it doesn't overload the oil system when its under load at high rpm.

Try draining a little oil and see if that helps.

If its not that, the only other thing that makes the bike run like crap and sputter out is if you have an ignition retard controller (Z-bomb/IRC) that's gotten water into it. Solution to this is pull it out and dry it thoroughly for a few days and then use plasti-dip spray before reinstalling it.

Good luck. I'll cross my fingers for you.
 
#19 ·
If its not that, the only other thing that makes the bike run like crap and sputter out is if you have an ignition retard controller (Z-bomb/IRC) that's gotten water into it. Solution to this is pull it out and dry it thoroughly for a few days and then use plasti-dip spray before reinstalling it.

Good luck. I'll cross my fingers for you.
True statement:thumbsup:

I just went thru this myself.
Dynojet IRC was wet.
 
#20 ·
Yeah, I almost ordered the Zbomb when I got my ZFi-TC this summer just to upgrade the part quality but hadn't had trouble thus far and the parts are compatible so I left it in place. I took a trip to the Dragon back in late August and didn't ride the bike again until I tried to load it on the trailer last month to move down to my duty station. It would turn over but not crank. Turned out to be the battery had dropped below critical charge to fire the plugs up but when I checked the oil, it was significantly lower. I tuned the Z-AFM to sea level in 90 degree heat so it was definitely running rich while I was up in the NC/TN mountains. I'm not sure if that causes the engine to burn more oil or not but the type of riding is definitely a lot more extensive high-rpm use than the bike sees elsewhere on the street. Low oil level might have contributed but the engine cranked with a jump and the battery has since been fine- still on the original Yuasa too.


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