Just a quick question for people who have done this work themselves, how difficult is it to do the valve adjustment (assuming at least some adjustment is necessary)?
If one chooses not to do it themselves, about what should one reasonably expect to pay to have someone else do it?
And you just check them with a feeler gauge. Only about 6 or 7 bucks at any auto store. If you can find a service manual around here then it will guide you through it easily
I have both service manuals (general and specific). My question regarding doing it oneself is really more along the lines of 'is it a giant pain in the ass?' Isn't there a special tool needed? How easy is it to mess it up? The manual says you have to remove the radiator to remove the cylinder head cover. Is this really the case? If so, it's easily worth $500 to me to let someone else do it.
I did it on a friends 07 600rr and they are more space limited than a gsxr but if you give yourself a whole day or a weekend to come back and forth to it, then you should be fine. And yes you have to only loosen the radiator so it hangs down that way you can wiggle the valve cover out. Personally I would never pay a shop to do it, especially when they will probably charge you the full price whether they make adjustments or not.
I'm at about the 16k mile mark on my '08 and I'm getting ready to wheel it down into the basement for the duration of the winter. My manual says to check the valves at 16k, which I plan to do. Even if it takes me a month, off and on, to check them, order any shims and makes some adjustments it's a whole lot cheaper than paying a shop to do it.
Plus, I don't always trust a shop to do it precisely. On my old FJ1100 Yamaha I took it in for its first inspection, which included valve adjustment. They claimed they did the work. However, on subsequent maintenance intervals I started checking and doing it myself. The first time I had to adjust many valves. Each time after that hardly, if any, of them were out of spec. I question whether the shop even checked them at all.
When I do it I might take a lot longer but I'm not riding the bike over the winter anyway. Plus, when I'm finished I know it has been done right.
when i was a kid i rebuilt an old datsun over head cam motor and was kind of familiar with the cam chain tensioner, timing alignment marks, not dropping stuff in the motor etc.
keep things clean, take your time, you have to be really organized and write stuff down, take pictures if you think you may forget, etc.
after doing the 450 i don't think the 1krr would be to much worse? just wish i could find a video of the gotcha stuff.
In the 2008 service manual they mention using a special tool called tensioner stopper.
Does anyone know what the purpose of the tool is and whether it is really needed?
Thx
Yep, I finally took everything apart last week and checked mine. Fortunately, they were all within 0.001 tolerance. It's not really a high tech procedure, there's just a lot of stuff to take off to get to those shims.
I hate to resurrect and old thread like this but...
I'm checking my clearances right now and have run into some uncertainty.
I'm following the DIY that was posted either on this forum or fireblades.org, this one http://www.fireblader.dk/i_files/mc011.htm#assembly_procedure
It doesn't go into the amount of detail I'd like it to for the feeler gauge measurements. My last bike was a GSXR 750 and when I checked the valve clearance on it there was an actual gap between the base lobe of the cam and the bucket for me to stick the feeler in.
On my CBR the bucket stays in contact with the base lobe of the cam and when I force a feeler in there it actually pushes the bucket down as if it were spring loaded. There's no spring that pushes the bucket up into the cam is there? I can't imagine I'm compressing the valve spring any by forcing a feeler in there.
I'm finding this confusing as there was an actual gap on my GSXR and the bucket on the CBR actually contacts the base lobe but appears to be spring loaded when I force a feeler in.
I don't know the mileage on the bike because according to the title it's not actual, but the odometer is reading 18k.
On the #1L intake valve I can jam in a 0.023 but can't fit an 0.024, that seems to me pretty far off spec so if I'm doing this correctly my motor probably has higher mileage or has been ridden hard or neglected.
On the #1L intake valve I can jam in a 0.023 but can't fit an 0.024, that seems to me pretty far off spec so if I'm doing this correctly my motor probably has higher mileage or has been ridden hard or neglected.
It sounds like you need to rotate the crank an additional 360 degrees. You're probably trying to measure the intake valves for #1 and #3 but the crank is in the position to check #2 and #4.
Rocketj figured it out for me in another thread. I was mixing up my mm and in.
I've been under a lot of stress lately, overwhelmed and sleep deprived, so I guess that contributed to me overlooking this important detail.
So I guess when I was jamming in the 0.024in (0.610mm) blade, thinking it was a 0.24 mm, I was actually compressing the spring a little? I would've thought they held the valves tighter than I'd be able to compress by jamming a gauge in there...
Hi,
I was reading about camshaft removal with engine in the frame ( problem with removing camshaft sprockets), did You figure it out? How to remove camshaft without removing engine from the frame? I got that problem with my 08 blade. Any one know how to do this without removing engine?
While space is limited, the service manual does not mention removing the engine in order to do the valve clearance inspection. You have to remove the cylinder head cover, and in order to do that you have to remove the radiator (actually just unbolt it for some more space), remove the air cleaner housing, remove the PAIR control solenoid valve and remove the direct ignition coils.
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