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Dyno time today

4K views 24 replies 12 participants last post by  Bosarge22 
#1 ·
After my intial break in period of about 100 miles I threw a PC5 and a Two sisters black series slip-on on my '15 SP

We dyno tuned it at that time and im not one for stupid numbers, I want a near perfect A/F ratio along with rideability. With those two items done the bike made 152 rwhp at 10,200 rpm with a max of 154 at 12,800 rpm. Not too shabby since its got lots of midrange punch to it.


Fast forward to a few weeks ago.......
I ordered the Euro spec velocity stacks for the SP, installed a K&N filter and put the SFM on top of the PC5. Also di the PAIR mod in both the airbox and valve cover.

Today we put it on the dyno to see what changed and sort it out. The first initial pull showed 148 rwhp and 72 ft lbs............seriously
fiddle farted with it on the PC5 side and left the SFM alone. Got it up to 151 rwhp and 74 ft lbs. added 5% to the SFM between 8k and 10k rpms to get it up to a good A/F ratio and managed 153 rwhp and 77 ft lbs


Needless to say I don't think the $135 velocity stacks, $235 SFM and the $80 dollar filter are worth a dime. I was pretty shocked to see I lost hp by trying to get it to breath more

Not sure if my bike was built on Friday or what, but those numbers are somewhat on the kick in the dick side. I was hoping to maybe bump 160 but it looks like this thing just isn't going to do it.........oh well


and yes.........same dyno, practically same atmospheric conditions and same operator


So, is it just me or are these numbers just a tad on the disappointing side?
 
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#2 ·
Not sure about the velocity stacks or SFM but I have heard the k&n filter is actually worse than the oem one. All the tests I've seen show a power loss with the k&n. Should have went with a bmc or piper cross as I've seen actual gains with both.
 
#3 ·
Velocity Stacks typically just move the power around in the rev range. On the dyno you'll usually see a small gain in the topend with some loss in the mid-range or vice-versa...

I second the issue with the K&N filters we've rarely had any luck with gains when dyno tuning customers bikes and we don't actively sell them for that very reason. I mean if the customer absolutely insists we'll get one for him, but as a whole they just don't work. I wrote an article about them specifically with the RC51 many years ago and a lot of that info is still true across the board
ROGUE RC51 Airfilter questions page


Additionally unless you have specifically altered the SFM to independently control the upper and lower injectors and tuned the bike as such you have wasted your money on that part of the equation as well. Just adding an SFM by itself only serves to split the mapping changes between the two sets. You have to manually select to tune them independently and it's time consuming. That being said once it is done I usually gain some peak horsepower, but it is not worth the effort unless this bike is fighting for podium finishes where contingency money and sponsorship dollars are at risk.
 
#4 ·
I just got my 06 on the dyno a couple of weeks ago. K&N Race filters, Arrow slip-on and a PC-5 are my only mods. I got 159.84 and 80.96 out of it. I think the peak power was at redline at @12,600 since it never stopped climbing. K&N makes race, and standard filters but I don't believe there's actually much difference. I picked up 8hp and 10ft lbs from the base map that came with the PC-5. Runs like a champ now.
 
#5 ·
Just for the sake of pointing out the obvious. You might also have had 10 more horsepower or maybe an additional 3 or 4 hp in the mid-range without the K&N filters too. You simply do not know because you didn't optimize the mapping with the OEM filters and then optimize the map with the K&N filters. That's how we figured out the problems with the K&N units by doing back to back testing...
 
#9 ·
150hp is normal for these bikes they are NOT HP monsters. An adjustment here and there you can gain.
 
#15 ·
Judging by what you said, if your bike is making peak power at 12,800, you either have a flashed ecu, or the irc or zbomb installed already. Normally, the bike will peak around 10,6-800 rpm, and begin dropping off.

When I did my velocity stacks, I didn't lose any midrange, only gained power up top. How that worked out, I don't know but the cbr's seem very consistent and all of the ones I've seen do this. With my full exhaust, hrc ecu, velocity stacks, BMC filter, bazzaz, and whatever other bolt on I had, I was able to hit peak power at 13,300 rpm. Your bike should do roughly the same. Albeit, my overall hp number was low, 160 hp, tuned with race fuel, compared to 175 hp for an alpha flashed, piped, tuned 2015 BMW, or 172 for a full bolt on gsxr 1000, the bike felt amazing.
 
#24 ·
Man if only I could go back in time and redo my setup. So, here's what you need. Lee's cycle velocity stacks, these will have your motor breathing well beyond what the factory springs can handle. I had an oops moment and at 14k rpm, power never dropped off.

BMC filter. Either one, really doesn't make a real difference.

Focus on the proper af/r, as it's worth more hp than ignition timing, i.e hrc ecu, refreshed ecu with advanced timing, or the dynojet ignition module. Af/r is key to making decent lower with the cbr. After that add a good pipe. Regardless of what you see on here, I had what most people will say is the best pipe for the cbr, and it had minimal gains over my arrow slip on. Do what you wish, as the gains are minimal. He'll, my stock exhaust with the gutted cat made within 1 hp of a slip on and was rather close to my full ti system. Too close for comfort.

Then, either sell the bike or build the motor. At thathe point it gets very expensive and you're pretty much in for the long haul. Best of luck.
 
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