Ive decided to post up my 520 chain conversion because while i was doing mine i found a lot of misinformation or just plain wrong information when i searched the boards.
First off let me start by saying i am not a motorcycle mechanic but i am fairly handy with a wrench. I do have a fair amount of experience working on high performance cars but motorcycles are still new to me. With that being said i feel most people are capable of doing this conversion themselves if they just take their time and pay attention to what they are doing. Hopefully this write up will help anyone who plans to take on the task themselves.
This is the 520 chain kit i used: http://www.superbikesupply.com/mm5/m...nversion-honda
-1 front & +2 rear (15f/44r)
8mm, 10mm, 14mm, 32mm sockets and ratchet
12mm wrench (x2)
chain rivet tool
Dremel or grinder
Torque specs (per service manual):
front drive sprocket 40 ft lbs
rear driven sprocket nuts 47 ft lbs
rear axle nut 83 ft lbs
1. I started by placing the bike on a rear stand and removing the clutch slave cylinder on the chain cover.
2. Next i loosened the two bolts that hold the water pump on (note the two bolts removed on water pump in picture below) and carefully pulled it straight back to give room for the chain cover to be removed. Some people claim this is not necessary but i found it to be a must.
3. After removing the chain cover (i also pulled the slave cylinder pushrod out) with the bike on the stand i very carefully pushed the rear brake lever down by hiking a leg over and loosened the front drive sprocket with a breaker bar leaving the bolt finger tight.
4. Next i used my Dremel tool to grind off the rivet head (and a shop vac to catch the shavings since i did mine indoors) and attached my chain breaker tool to push the pin/rivet out of the old chain. (Old chain below)
5. After removing the chain i removed the rear wheel and replaced the driven sprocket with the new one torquing the nuts to 47 ft lbs then replaced the wheel on the bike.
6. Removed the front drive sprocket and replaced it with the new one torquing the bolt to 40 ft lbs. Again use the rear brake to hold everything while torquing drive sprocket nut.
7. Put the new chain on and measured the appropriate length to cut off the extra length of links. Dremeled off the rivet head, pushed the rivet pin out with chain tool, and installed the rivet style master link with O-rings and chain grease.
8. Used the chain rivet tool to push master link side plate on the new master link. (It was kind of a PITA to line it all up and keep it aligned while pressing the plate. Might have been because of the Driven chain tool i was using)
9. After pressing on the side plate so the chain still flexed easily like the other links and did not kink (easier said then done for a first timer. I used a flat blade screw driver to carefully back the side plate off until the link moved easily and freely since i pressed the master link plates too tight at first) then i used the rivet tool to expand the exposed portion of the rivets.
10. Reassemble the chain cover, water pump and slave cylinder. Adjust the chain tension and torque the rear axle nut to 83 ft lbs.
11. After double checking everything its time to take it on a test ride and be sure to break in the new components by riding fairly easy for some miles before giving a full twist of the wrist. Enjoy
After note: If anyone has any recommendations for a better chain tool then the Driven brand please leave some feedback as i bent the rivet expander on the last rivet and it will no longer come out of the tool. Thus i can no longer use the other attachments to break the chain or press on the master link side plates. Any other side notes, tips, or input is greatly appreciated.