Flasher Relay??

Anyone know where the flasher relay is located???

between the headlights,..

between the headlights,.. really?? How the hell did I miss that?? Must be really small

Y do you ask BammBamm?

Y do you ask BammBamm? Im ordering the Libertek adjustable rate flasher relay and need to install it so I have to cut some wires coming out of the stock relay. My new LED front signals will be in soon and need to adjust the flash rate.

did you check with the company that makes the LED, they could install a resistor on the light that will stop that. I know that the good way to go is by adjusting the flasher but i don't think is a good idea to tap into that part of the hardnes. To much happening around the front of that bike.

did you check with the company that makes the LED, they could install a resistor on the light that will stop that. I know that the good way to go is by adjusting the flasher but i don't think is a good idea to tap into that part of the hardnes. To much happening around the front of that bike. Actually I just spoke to my mechanic that does all my custom work and he said not to touch it as well. He sells a device that slows the flash rate back to a stock flash after LED's are installed. Thanks for the input. I didnt want to touch those wires anyway

here is the deal with that: you save power with the LEDs because they don't consume as much power as a regular bulb (that is good for you and your bike battery). Me personally will live it flashing faster. that's my 0.10 cents.

A little bit of wattage use from just one bulb isn't going to make a damned bit of difference. Besides, the alternater charges the battery and runs all the electrics while you're running anyway. So if anything, running the bulb or resistor is easier on your regulator/rectifier. The flash rate is a personal choice. Some people like it, some don't. BammBamm just happens to be one who likes it stock, as do I.

A little bit of wattage use from just one bulb isn't going to make a damned bit of difference. Besides, the alternater charges the battery and runs all the electrics while you're running anyway. So if anything, running the bulb or resistor is easier on your regulator/rectifier. The flash rate is a personal choice. Some people like it, some don't. BammBamm just happens to be one who likes it stock, as do I. Here in NY, when you are in traffic, with your lights on, brake light on, at operation temperature and the radiator fan kicks in (at night) you could actually see the dash lights dim a bit and that's without the signal yet. also motorcycles Don't charge the battery like a car charger, you have to be over 2000 RPM for it to work (onless you want to hold the throtle up until you get clean road). that's why City riding is so hard on anything you drive or ride. Bamm...you might not notice this now but way until you get into the city on a summer night. I live here, that's why i Know.

Gee my bettery is going to last forever now!!!! bdlstyle

LED's don't draw as much current as incandescent bulbs, and the percieved resistence on the circuit is much less. You need to trick the bike into a slower blink rate by putting more resistance on the blinker circuit. You can buy a pair resistors at Radio shack which will do what you want for under $2: http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F002%5F014%5F004&product%5Fid=271%2D132 Wire them as such:

Gee my bettery is going to last forever now!!!! bdlstyle Mine pretty much has. The stock battery on my '98 Superhawk is still going strong. Never used a battery tender. It has sat for months in the past without being charged. Never let it go dead though. Metalscorpio, Sorry I disagreed with you earlier. I agree with your last post, however I don't think there are even 0.5% of us who ride in that much stop and go traffic to warrant *having* to get LED signals. I've not had a dead battery from traffic since I had my 1982 CB650.

Gee my bettery is going to last forever now!!!! bdlstyle Mine pretty much has. The stock battery on my '98 Superhawk is still going strong. Never used a battery tender. It has sat for months in the past without being charged. Never let it go dead though. Metalscorpio, Sorry I disagreed with you earlier. I agree with your last post, however I don't think there are even 0.5% of us who ride in that much stop and go traffic to warrant *having* to get LED signals. I've not had a dead battery from traffic since I had my 1982 CB650. :lol: is cool Dog, I was just telling it how it is ( or maybe just for me, i live in China Town in Manhattan NY so is very busy here). that's just one of the reason Y change them, i have many other reason, for example: hiting cars with them, if i drop the bike, even if just parking it, your lower and maybe your uppen will break and is just not so nice looking with them anyway ;)

LED's don't draw as much current as incandescent bulbs, and the percieved resistence on the circuit is much less. You need to trick the bike into a slower blink rate by putting more resistance on the blinker circuit. You can buy a pair resistors at Radio shack which will do what you want for under $2: http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F002%5F014%5F004&product%5Fid=271%2D132 Wire them as such: I've been researching this. Wouldn't it actually take a 25W 10ohm resistor placed inline to the bulbs +12V wire? The stock bulbs are 23 watts each. LEDs take about zero Watts and the resistance on the wire is about 6 ohms so to make the bike think a 23W bulb was on the wire wouldn't it take a 25Watt resistor? 23Watt resistor woudl do it but I"ve neer seen one of those. 25Watt is the closest. Let me know if I've missed something.

That size resistor will be pretty big, and will get really hot, even flashing. I did some hands on testing with this a few years ago and the 10W will work just fine.

That size resistor will be pretty big, and will get really hot, even flashing. I did some hands on testing with this a few years ago and the 10W will work just fine. So 10W is enough to fool the stock relay? Also, the wiring diagram above doesn't look right. Putting one connection on positive and one on negative would cause a short I'd think.

That size resistor will be pretty big, and will get really hot, even flashing. I did some hands on testing with this a few years ago and the 10W will work just fine. So 10W is enough to fool the stock relay? Also, the wiring diagram above doesn't look right. Putting one connection on positive and one on negative would cause a short I'd think. That is the correct way to wire it. It is a load being added to the system, it is actually a device, so it needs positive and negative connection

That is the correct way to wire it. It is a load being added to the system, it is actually a device, so it needs positive and negative connection I'll do some experimenting. I thought the resistor in this case should be wired in series rather than parallel.

That would be in series, not in parallel

I had this problem with my rc when I put a mototek undertail on it. I don't remember where I found the solution but if your not using led in the front like I was higher wattage bulb's took care of it.

That would be in series, not in parallel Are you sure? I thought in series would be like positive to resistor out the other side of the resitor to the positive lead, then to the builbs. Negative is just to ground. Wiring it like the diagram above looks like it would send the electrons in a loop. Dang I wish I still had my Electronic Workbench program to test this.

wiring it like in the diagram creates a circuit just like your light bulb does. you will draw less wattage but you will bring the ohms back to where they were before

Ok, I did my CA tail light install this weekend and wired in the power sinks to make the turn signals oscillate at their normal frequency. I tried it with them flashing fast, but did not care for it....just a little too fast for my taste. At any rate, this power sink is wired in PARALLEL not series. As the other poster mentioned, it basically acts as a load on the wire, simulating a light bulb. I documented the install and will be adding it to my site soon.

I'm just curious - i've used the libertek flasher relay in the past on my GSXR and been very happy with it. I know I could have used resistors instead but that option just did not appeal to me. I haven't had a chance to look at the wiring for the RR blinkers yet, but i am just wondering if someone can elaborate as to why I wouldn't want to mess with them. I was actually planning on getting the libertek for my repsol but i want to know what the danger is.

www.libertek.com http://www.libertek.com/product_assets/prod_fr_p1.gif

you will draw less wattage but you will bring the ohms back to where they were before Say what?

I'm just curious - i've used the libertek flasher relay in the past on my GSXR and been very happy with it. I know I could have used resistors instead but that option just did not appeal to me. I haven't had a chance to look at the wiring for the RR blinkers yet, but i am just wondering if someone can elaborate as to why I wouldn't want to mess with them. I was actually planning on getting the libertek for my repsol but i want to know what the danger is. The resistors aren't resistors in the sense you may be thinking. These are actually power sinks that go in parallel with the turn signal wiring. They make the bike "think" there is a bulb there as a bulb draws more power than an LED. I'd go with the power sinks if it were me. I may make up a few sets for people for cheap if there's a need. I was able to only modify the CA wiring and didn't have to mess with the bike's wiring at all. This way if I ever want, I just unplug and go back to stock lickity split.

you will draw less wattage but you will bring the ohms back to where they were before Say what? in other words a resistor does not increas the watts drawn, just puts a higher ohm load like a larger buld would