08 Stock Exhaust mod

I took x-rays of my 08 exhaust so I could see where I needed to cut the exhaust open to get the cat out. I already have those pics in another post, but I just got done doing the work and gutting everything in the exhaust. It's not very easy to do at all. You pretty much need a TIG rig or plasma cutter. It took me about 4 hours to do the work, but I think it'll go a lot faster for me if I do another one. THe exhaust sounds awesome. It's really growly with a little bit of high pitch whine, because there are two different sized exhaust pipes. It has a very deep tone though. The sound quality might not be too good on the videos, but I can't tell because I'm on a laptop right now, so it could just be my speakers. Well, here go the pics and description of the work: Link to x-ray pics:http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48550 Part is off and I cleaned the area I'm going to cut with a polyfan: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0002.jpg Cut the outline. You have to cut through the surface layer and also the baffling on the inside. Also the cat is tack welded to this piece I'm trying to remove, so the tack weld needs to be grinded off: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0003.jpg

Opened up: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0004.jpg Started cutting. I couldn't reach all the way through with my cutting discs, so I ended up finishing it off by melting through it with my TIG torch: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0005.jpg http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0006.jpg

Here is what the restrictive cat looks like: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0007.jpg Oh yeah, before you can remove the cat, a tack needs to be grounded off on the front side of the exhaust: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0008.jpg Hole welded back up, and then buffed smooth: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0012.jpg http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0013.jpg

Cut off the main pipe to allow the exhaust to move freely. Again I had to finish off the cut with my TIG torch: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0010.jpg Vaccumed everything out and cleaned it up and now fitting the cover back on: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0014.jpg Prepping for Argon purge gas: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0016.jpg http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0015.jpg

Didn't get pics of the welds because they looked a bit nasty. I'm going to go with wirebrushing instead of the polyfan if I do any more because it thinned out the metal too much and made it difficult to weld. If I do more, I'll have to leave the welds there because smoothing them out thins it out too much and I may have some cracks on my part that I will have to rewelded. This is after it's been welded back together and all cleaned up: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0017.jpg Painted it with Rustoleum High Temp BBQ Grill paint. It matches perfect with the paint already on it, and it's ready to be heated only after an hour. I painted it, waited about 10 minutes, installed it back on my bike, put all the plastics back on, went in a took a shower, and came back out and rode off: http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0020.jpg http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/2008_0321Jason0021.jpg In the pic where you see the visible portion of the exhaust when it's mounted, it looks like the metal has a lot of imperfections like dips and stuff. This was already there on the stock part. The area I worked on was limited to a little 2"x3" area.

Waiting for a sound clip and seat-of-the-pants dyno run now! Excellent work.

Here are some videos that I took to try to get some audio on it. I probably shouldn't have taken the first clip in my garage because it's going to change the sound, but that was with the stock exhaust with the exhaust flap open. stock with valve open: http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/?action=view¤t=2008_0321Jason0001.flv after gutting: http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/?action=view¤t=2008_0321Jason0019.flv not so close to the camera this time: http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/?action=view¤t=2008_0321Jason0025.flv

I've only had the bike for about a week now, so I can't really give an accurate butt dyno judgement. It sounds faster if that helps, haha. It does seem to come up a little easier in 1st. The initial crack of the throttle feels a little sluggish most likely because of the loss in back pressure, but it's only for an instant.

Just to let everyone know, the rattling sound is the engine. It doesn't REALLY sound like that, but the poor sound quality makes it sound like it's hurting. There is absolutely no rattling sound from the exhaust.

Good work , looks very clean . however from the looks of the cat. I would bet their is no hp gains . as far as sound , does it get raspy when u accelerate hard?

Good work , looks very clean . however from the looks of the cat. I would bet their is no hp gains . as far as sound , does it get raspy when u accelerate hard? It sounds really good at all revs. I didn't remove any of the stock baffling, so it doesn't get raspy. I gutted my cans on my 07 R1 and tried them out with them empty before putting my full system on, and that thing sounded raspy, so I knew exactly what I didn't want to hear from this exhaust, and it doesn't make that hollow rattling sound.

Sounds awesome! too bad it looks practically impossible for a normal person to do.

Hehe, I'm not against doing it again. I don't know the rules about advertising services without being a sponsor, so I can't officially offer to do it for someone, but if anyone wants to PM me on how to get it done without doing it themselves, feel free.

good job it sounds great

I love the sound and the idea. I will wait about 2 more month before I decide to do it. Need to see the dyno and some basline runs. I do like the look of the stock exhaust. you do excellent work.

I love the sound and the idea. I will wait about 2 more month before I decide to do it. Need to see the dyno and some basline runs. I do like the look of the stock exhaust. you do excellent work. I appreciate it. I thought about getting a few dyno runs in to check it out. I'm going to check with KWS here and see what they would charge. I know it's about $50 for a baseline run, but maybe they'll let me do two pulls for that. I could swap out the exhausts in about 2 minutes if I bring it to them with the lowers already off, and if I get another stock exhaust. I might try to find one to buy that way I can do some core swaps if anyone else wants this done without much downtime.

P.S. This is for my "track only" exhaust, and not intended for use on the street since it is illegal to make any modifications to the emissions control devices on vehicles for use on public roads. :jerkoff:

Good work , looks very clean . however from the looks of the cat. I would bet their is no hp gains . as far as sound , does it get raspy when u accelerate hard? I am curious as to why would you go through all of this effort instead of just buying an aftermarket can?

Because I'm a welder/fabricator and it was easy and free for me to do, and because I'm saving up money to move to Hawaii, and when you buy a new can it gets all naked under the belly like it has intestines showing, and I wouldn't even buy a new slip on anyway because it's a waste of time and money in my opinion. The only good thing a slip on is for is sound. The power gain is minimal. For me, it's a full system, or nothing at all. Right now I don't want to spend the money, and I can't stand silent bikes. It's safer if people can hear you.

Because I'm a welder/fabricator and it was easy and free for me to do, and because I'm saving up money to move to Hawaii, and when you buy a new can it gets all naked under the belly like it has intestines showing, and I wouldn't even buy a new slip on anyway because it's a waste of time and money in my opinion. The only good thing a slip on is for is sound. The power gain is minimal. For me, it's a full system, or nothing at all. Right now I don't want to spend the money, and I can't stand silent bikes. It's safer if people can hear you. Actually, the weight savings are substantial, even with a can replacement. Also, even full systems are showing negligible power gains over cans. That said, the stock pipe does look very clean. How bad is the exhaust stench without the cat?

Actually, the weight savings are substantial, even with a can replacement. Also, even full systems are showing negligible power gains over cans. That said, the stock pipe does look very clean. How bad is the exhaust stench without the cat? I think I may have knocked out about 5 lbs on it. I'm sure a slip on would be even lighter. I did notice the Akra Full system only added 4 hp. It'll be a long time before I decide to get one because the weak gain doesn't really justify the cost to me. I'm 230lbs, so I'm kind of #### outta luck with the weight department, so I don't worry about it too much. I think the best thing I can do is re-gear it. I'm used to the smell from all of my other bikes, and I wouldn't really call it a "stench". It just smells like ignited high-octane fuel. It's not too overpowering either. When I'm on the bike, I usually only smell it everyonce in awhile while at a stop and the wind blows the right way. When I had the full system on my R1, I would always smell like the exhaust when I got done riding because the exhaust was right under the tail, and it would suck up towards me because of the low pressure zone, but it would wear off in a few minutes afterwards. Luckily I don't have that problem with the side exit.

Because I'm a welder/fabricator and it was easy and free for me to do, and because I'm saving up money to move to Hawaii, and when you buy a new can it gets all naked under the belly like it has intestines showing, and I wouldn't even buy a new slip on anyway because it's a waste of time and money in my opinion. The only good thing a slip on is for is sound. The power gain is minimal. For me, it's a full system, or nothing at all. Right now I don't want to spend the money, and I can't stand silent bikes. It's safer if people can hear you. :hail:welders/fabricators. . . just because he CAN. I get the same reaction from people, why. Its great to experiment. I will be doing this as well come winter. Thanks for the write up on the cake work job.

Because I'm a welder/fabricator and it was easy and free for me to do, and because I'm saving up money to move to Hawaii, and when you buy a new can it gets all naked under the belly like it has intestines showing, and I wouldn't even buy a new slip on anyway because it's a waste of time and money in my opinion. The only good thing a slip on is for is sound. The power gain is minimal. For me, it's a full system, or nothing at all. Right now I don't want to spend the money, and I can't stand silent bikes. It's safer if people can hear you. he's a craftsman and proud of his work- his beads are his autograph on his artwork:thumbsup:

great job. i like ur work, . why they gotta make stuff so complicated and compacted.. AMAZING to me though how they get the stuff to work in sync.

great job. i like ur work, . why they gotta make stuff so complicated and compacted.. AMAZING to me though how they get the stuff to work in sync. They're doing something right if full systems are only adding around 4hp. KR Tuned showed a dyno of an 07 R1 stock vs. their full system and showed a 15hp gain.

They're doing something right if full systems are only adding around 4hp. KR Tuned showed a dyno of an 07 R1 stock vs. their full system and showed a 15hp gain. Did you bring it to the dyno yet?

Did you bring it to the dyno yet? I just moved and didn't have time to get it done, and now it's kind of the last priority I have right now.

No problem.

Post your numbers when you can...:th_salute:

sound petty good

Your exhaust mod looks and sounds great. Thanks for the detailed pics, explanation, and videos. Any loss in low-end torque or fueling issues?

Did you install the metric calibrator? bp Because I'm a welder/fabricator and it was easy and free for me to do, and because I'm saving up money to move to Hawaii, and when you buy a new can it gets all naked under the belly like it has intestines showing, and I wouldn't even buy a new slip on anyway because it's a waste of time and money in my opinion. The only good thing a slip on is for is sound. The power gain is minimal. For me, it's a full system, or nothing at all. Right now I don't want to spend the money, and I can't stand silent bikes. It's safer if people can hear you.

sounds cool

Thanks for this post, i'm seting to on mine tonight, :hail: full credit to you for taking the time to show us how, hope mine turns out as well as yours, i don't think my welding skills are quite up to yours, but hey, have a go i say.

Thanks for this post, i'm seting to on mine tonight, :hail: full credit to you for taking the time to show us how, hope mine turns out as well as yours, i don't think my welding skills are quite up to yours, but hey, have a go i say. I hope to see the final product plus numbers on weight reduction and dyno.

to be honest you will loose more weight with a good shit, the cat and link pipe that came out only weighed 700gms, the dyno will be done when the bike is finished just to check for any fueling issues, as for power i doubt if this will have made much difference as the cat is only small. cat out http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr297/depleatedpete/S5001202.jpg rewelded and painted http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr297/depleatedpete/S5001203.jpg back on http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr297/depleatedpete/S5001212.jpg once again a big thankyou to the BFA for this post i :th_salute: people that are prepaired to give things a go, top man.

No problem. I really don't think this mod is worth a whole lot, other than it does sound a lot better than stock and probably a little bit more free flowing. It's definitely worth a go if you can do the work yourself. You also get to keep the stock look and won't ever get hassled by any police over it. It's all about personal preferrence, and not wanting to spend $450 plus on a slip on. I see this as the same type of mod as people putting race baffles in the standard motorcycle mufflers. You get better sound for a fraction of the cost of an aftermarket exhaust, and get to keep the stock look, but don't necessarily get all the benifits of an aftermarket exhaust. I honestly can't get over the quality of the sound though. It definitely does not sound like a hack job modification, and I think this is how the bike should sound coming from the factory.

What wire did you use to reweld the can back together? I will be cutting mine apart very soon and we have every type of weld wire you can find here.I just want to make sure i have the guy weld it with the correct stuff.

What wire did you use to reweld the can back together? I will be cutting mine apart very soon and we have every type of weld wire you can find here.I just want to make sure i have the guy weld it with the correct stuff. It doesn't really make too much of a difference. I never got into different grades of low carbon steel and welding because it doesn't really matter until you get into stainless and other alloys. You can weld with a higher grade filler wire than the base metal is but you don't want to do it the other way around. I used 347 stainless steel filler because that's what I use to weld up the aircraft parts and it was right there in my work area. If you use stainless you just have to purge the part with argon.

It doesn't really make too much of a difference. I never got into different grades of low carbon steel and welding because it doesn't really matter until you get into stainless and other alloys. You can weld with a higher grade filler wire than the base metal is but you don't want to do it the other way around. I used 347 stainless steel filler because that's what I use to weld up the aircraft parts and it was right there in my work area. If you use stainless you just have to purge the part with argon. cool thanks thats what we do here at work, we make aircraft parts as well.

This is a sound clip of my effort, it does sound better in real life though. http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr297/depleatedpete/th_S5001230.jpg

Me want one.:thumbsup::hail:

I'm missing something. In the line drawing of the muffler that I see in the FSM, there is a springloaded by-pass valve; it appears from the drawing that exhaust pressure opens the by-pass valve and that opening thereby allows some of the exhaust gas to divert around the cat. I don't see that in the pics in this thread . . . ? Something had to be plugged, or connected up, right? Or, do the head pipes just dump into a big empty space and then leak out both the small and the larger exhaust pipes? If so, then there's a velocity loss . . . . Was the by-pass valve welded shut? Or, is it part of the removed cat assembly? What about the other end, the other cat outlet? Where did it go?

This is a sound clip of my effort, it does sound better in real life though. http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr297/depleatedpete/th_S5001230.jpg (http://s493.photobucket.com/albums/rr297/depleatedpete/?action=view¤t=S5001230.flv) You shouldn't rev it that much without load, not good for the motor.

Yeah, I was waiting for the rods to come bursting out of the block.

I'm missing something. In the line drawing of the muffler that I see in the FSM, there is a springloaded by-pass valve; it appears from the drawing that exhaust pressure opens the by-pass valve and that opening thereby allows some of the exhaust gas to divert around the cat. I don't see that in the pics in this thread . . . ? Something had to be plugged, or connected up, right? Or, do the head pipes just dump into a big empty space and then leak out both the small and the larger exhaust pipes? If so, then there's a velocity loss . . . . Was the by-pass valve welded shut? Or, is it part of the removed cat assembly? What about the other end, the other cat outlet? Where did it go? You are exactly right. That's why I tried to describe it as a positive pressure system. There is no use for velocity in this system. When I opened it up could see exactly how it flowed. The exhaust comes in from the cat, and "dumps" into the center section. There is only one outlet for this center section that "dumps" into the forward section. Then there is only one outlet from the front section, which is that big pipe in the middle. So it goes from the forward section through the large pipe, by-passing the center section, and then "dumps" into the rear section. From the rear section, there are two outlets. There is the larger one with the valve, and the smaller one underneath. The smaller outlet is always open, and the larger one is controlled by the valve. That's why I just cut out the large pipe in the middle, so now when the exhaust is dumped in from the cat, it can flow out the rear, instead of having to go forward first. I don't think it made much of a difference, but I was in there and was like "what the hell, might as well".

I'm missing something. In the line drawing of the muffler that I see in the FSM, there is a springloaded by-pass valve; it appears from the drawing that exhaust pressure opens the by-pass valve and that opening thereby allows some of the exhaust gas to divert around the cat. I don't see that in the pics in this thread . . . ? Something had to be plugged, or connected up, right? Or, do the head pipes just dump into a big empty space and then leak out both the small and the larger exhaust pipes? If so, then there's a velocity loss . . . . Was the by-pass valve welded shut? Or, is it part of the removed cat assembly? What about the other end, the other cat outlet? Where did it go? I looked at the xray pics again and now I see the valve you are talking about. I don't know why I assumed it was part of the valve for the larger exhaust exit. In the pics of the insides, it's on the right side of where I cut the cat out. I looks like a little heat shield covering it. I remember when I was doing the work, it was completely sealed there (meaning it was closed now that I know it is a valve) so I didn't bother doing anything with it. As far as the other end of the cat, I think you are assuming the cat was in-line with some other pipes. The cat is open-ended, and literally dumps the exhaust into the middle chamber. I'll try to do some MS Paint on the xrays to show the flow.

Keep in mind I'm not a computer graphic artist, and this was just a really quick hack job because my girl needs to use the computer now, hehe.

Here are some videos that I took to try to get some audio on it. I probably shouldn't have taken the first clip in my garage because it's going to change the sound, but that was with the stock exhaust with the exhaust flap open. stock with valve open: http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/?action=view¤t=2008_0321Jason0001.flv after gutting: http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/?action=view¤t=2008_0321Jason0019.flv not so close to the camera this time: http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x140/bfa04r1/?action=view¤t=2008_0321Jason0025.flv sounds good.

Looks and sounds real good. I did this for my buddy's gsxr600, but instead of letting the air flow out the back of the exhaust I welded the exhaust shut from the inside, removed the cat and all the baffles, and torched a hole in the bottom of the stock exhaust enclosure so the exhaust flowed straight out from the headers and dumped onto the pavement, giving a straight pipe through a muffler. Sounded like shit but it's what he wanted :laugh: I'll have to try this on mine. I still can't find any slipon other than taylor made that I like better than stock anyways...

I ended up just taking out the cat and leaving in the mid pipe. I like it much better. It has a deeper tone.Hers a pic of it. I'm planing on doing the intake flapper mod and changing the leds in the mirrors next week. http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p100/sarah25_04/IMG_4393.jpg

I ended up just taking out the cat and leaving in the mid pipe. I like it much better. It has a deeper tone.Hers a pic of it. I'm planing on doing the intake flapper mod and changing the leds in the mirrors next week. http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p100/sarah25_04/IMG_4393.jpg How did you get the exhaust black ? Paint it theen powder coat?

I used grill paint on the pipe and satin black with satin clear on the cover.

wtf? ghetto!

Looks great.

This is an awesome mod & i love the way he did x-rays too :th_SmlyROFL: Possible use for the Cat Ive seen some light weight track cars which have Cat's right at the end of their tail pipe, they glow red and spit flames on over run. Do you think the fireblade exhaust could be rigged to do this?

thanks for all the pics and info ahead of time. HUGE help for me. ive done this once before on my ducati 749, and was hoping to do something similar on my CBR.. i dont even have the bike in my possession yet, and already you got me ahead of the game in the muffler build. thanks! heres what i did with the ducati: http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?t=35818&page=1&highlight=muffler

wtf? ghetto! There you go again with your two word posts talking crap again. Grill paint matches EXACTLY to the point that while you are painting the STOCK painted can, you can't even tell where you painted and where you haven't. So how is it ghetto to use matching high temperature paint?

This is an awesome mod & i love the way he did x-rays too :th_SmlyROFL: Possible use for the Cat Ive seen some light weight track cars which have Cat's right at the end of their tail pipe, they glow red and spit flames on over run. Do you think the fireblade exhaust could be rigged to do this? The cat is very ugly looking but could be put into an aftermarket can with some work, but not with the stock can. I don't think it would make flames though just by itself. The only time I ever get flames from my bikes is after removing the cat completely with an aftermarket exhaust and not correcting the fuel. I put a slash cut MotoGP style exhaust on my R1 once and I could get 4 foot flames shoot out. I used to have video of it on my last phone but didn't get a chance to transfer it to my computer.

thanks for all the pics and info ahead of time. HUGE help for me. ive done this once before on my ducati 749, and was hoping to do something similar on my CBR.. i dont even have the bike in my possession yet, and already you got me ahead of the game in the muffler build. thanks! heres what i did with the ducati: http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?t=35818&page=1&highlight=muffler A race baffle kit like that is normally the best way, because when you gut most exhausts, the core comes out completely with the baffles and packing. I gutted my R1 cans and riveted the ends back on to try it out before I put race baffles in and it sounded horrible. You could tell they were hollow cans because they sounded like it. The good thing about the 08 RR exhaust is the baffling is installed all around the inner surface of the exhaust, so no matter what pieces you remove from the inside, you still get baffling so that you don't get the raspy hollow sound.

A race baffle kit like that is normally the best way, because when you gut most exhausts, the core comes out completely with the baffles and packing. I gutted my R1 cans and riveted the ends back on to try it out before I put race baffles in and it sounded horrible. You could tell they were hollow cans because they sounded like it. The good thing about the 08 RR exhaust is the baffling is installed all around the inner surface of the exhaust, so no matter what pieces you remove from the inside, you still get baffling so that you don't get the raspy hollow sound. it takes some work to build an exhaust that sounds good and works... ive found that if you have the space, like i did on the 749, and like im sure the cbr has, you can build an open air 'baffle'. what it is, is a stepped junction that opens up to the side. it eliminates the reverb, and if positioned properly from the exhaust port, can increase scavaging at a narrow RPM point... of course, on a inline 4 like the cbr, with the exhaust beyond the collector, its kind of a moot point. you wont see much scavaging or much increase/change... this is all much easier to show/explain if i was sitting there with a piece of paper... id draw a pic on here, but its a PITA to draw on a little netbook.

I admire people who are brave enough and have the skills to try things like this out. Good work. It sounds great. I did a similar thing on my old 04 R1, race baffles in the OEM end cans and de-catted Y-pipe, because I thought the stock exhausts suited the bike better than aftermarket systems. It had a nice sound over stock without being obnoxiously loud, but it was much easier to do than things seem to be on my 08 Blade.

TheBFA Did you have any problems with the fuel curve with this mod poping on decel ect. I modified my stock muffler by cutting a hole in the rear chamber and removing the exhaust gas bypass valve. I got the idea from reading your thread thanks. I'm considering doing your mod as well ,just trying to get the best sound from the stock muffler without screwing up the air fuel ratio and having to get a PC III DRJ1957

Another question? how did you polish the exhaust cover?

http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss213/bobbobbleton/07122008058.jpg http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss213/bobbobbleton/07122008060.jpg

Jealous--I need mine done but don't have the skills.

...The only good thing a slip on is for is sound. The power gain is minimal. For me, it's a full system, or nothing at all. these comments are just silly. the increase from a can and bazzaz was huge. just putting the quiet insert back in reduces power tremendously.