Ok, after reading the various threads about different options for 1/6-turn throttles, I decided to go the R6 throttle tube route. I'm a DIY kinda guy, and figured if can build an engine, I should be able to make the R6 tube work, and save some serious bucks over the HRC kit.
In case you've never heard of this mod, basically it works thusly: The standard throttle tube on the CBR1000RR is a "1/4 turn" tube, meaning you turn the tube approximately 90-degrees of rotation to go from idle to WOT. The Yamaha R6 '06 and newer come stock with a "1/6 turn" throttle, which reduces this rotation down to 60-degrees to go from idle to WOT. You can go WOT easier without putting your wrist at as odd an angle. The way it does this is simply by having a larger diameter at the throttle cable end, hence pulling faster on the cables as you rotate it.
HRC makes a full kit for this which includes the tube, new cables, etc. in the $150 price range, but the R6 tube will work with the stock cables and is less than $20.
I've seen some warnings on the board about "not taking the cheap way out" but to be honest, compared to some things I've seen people do, I consider this very safe if you do it right, and it's not that difficult. I think installing the HRC kit with new throttle cables is considerably more complicated for a home mechanic, and leaves more room for error messing with the airbox and throttle cables at the throttle-body end, but that's just my opinion. If you want the "best" setup, it's probably the HRC kit, but this works great if you are willing to put a little into the install. It's not hard at all.
Ok, step by step, here we go.
Here is my throttle tube, stock. Note I have Helibars, so yours may look a bit different, but it's the same tube. Note my cables are spun around to the bottom to allow the slightly higher bars than stock, but aside from that, same difference.
First, remove the two screws holding the throttle-tube housing onto the clip-on. On mine they are on the top, but with stock bars they will be on the bottom instead. Since mine are on top, it's actually easier to see. I've heard stories of people having big problems removing these, but mine weren't that bad. If one is too tight, try the other one first before stripping the first one off. I've also read that these are actually JIS-type screw heads, and not standard phillips, so it might work better if you use the JIS screwdriver that came with your bike, or buy a set.
Next, remove the bar-end weight. Just hold the weight itself securely, and remove the screw in the end. It's long winded, so takes a while to back out.
Here's a shot with the bar-end weight removed. Note the throttle-tube extends out past the end of the actual bar, and the weight goes up into it.
Ok, next are a couple shots of what you will see once you remove the top of the throttle-tube housing. This is the stock throttle-tube with cables still in it.
I took pics of a few angles so you could get a good view of it. Notice the housing is far larger than the cable-end of the tube, allowing room for a larger tube as well. :thumbsup:
Here's a pic of the throttle cover that comes off; note it is large, and has no obstructions in it. The larger R6 tube fits fine in this side!
Ok, next up, we need to talk about the throttle cable connections that come into the housing. Since you will need all the slack you can get in the cables, I recommend loosening the locknuts that hold the cable elbows to the housing, and unlock the cable adjuster on the right of the pic, and screw it all the way down, as shown in the pic. You are looking to loosen the cables as much as possible here, to get them off of the stock tube, and then onto the R6 tube without having to loosen the cables at the throttle body.
I actually had to slide the throttle-tube off the bar to wrangle enough slack to get the cables out of the stock tube. I used a small screwdriver to get my fingers under the cable, and push the end of the cable out of the tube. It's not easy, so work with it, and be careful not to nick or damage the cables in any way.
Here's a shot of the end of the throttle cables, after removing from the tube entirely.
Ok, let's get to the new tube! Here's the package the R6 tube comes in, along with the part number (2C0-26240-00-00). It cost me $13 at the local Yamaha dealer, but my brother bought one a couple days later and it was $22 now, so maybe there's been a recent price increase. Either way, not much money, and the quality is good. It looks just like the Honda OEM piece, just with a larger cable end.
Next, here are several pics comparing the stock Honda tube and the R6 tube. You will notice they look very much alike, except for the much larger end on the R6 tube. I took a photo of the grips comparing them. The Yamaha grip is slightly different than the Honda one, but I'd be willing to bet no one notices. I'm leaving it until they wear out, and I'll replace both.
In case you've never heard of this mod, basically it works thusly: The standard throttle tube on the CBR1000RR is a "1/4 turn" tube, meaning you turn the tube approximately 90-degrees of rotation to go from idle to WOT. The Yamaha R6 '06 and newer come stock with a "1/6 turn" throttle, which reduces this rotation down to 60-degrees to go from idle to WOT. You can go WOT easier without putting your wrist at as odd an angle. The way it does this is simply by having a larger diameter at the throttle cable end, hence pulling faster on the cables as you rotate it.
HRC makes a full kit for this which includes the tube, new cables, etc. in the $150 price range, but the R6 tube will work with the stock cables and is less than $20.
I've seen some warnings on the board about "not taking the cheap way out" but to be honest, compared to some things I've seen people do, I consider this very safe if you do it right, and it's not that difficult. I think installing the HRC kit with new throttle cables is considerably more complicated for a home mechanic, and leaves more room for error messing with the airbox and throttle cables at the throttle-body end, but that's just my opinion. If you want the "best" setup, it's probably the HRC kit, but this works great if you are willing to put a little into the install. It's not hard at all.
Ok, step by step, here we go.
Here is my throttle tube, stock. Note I have Helibars, so yours may look a bit different, but it's the same tube. Note my cables are spun around to the bottom to allow the slightly higher bars than stock, but aside from that, same difference.
First, remove the two screws holding the throttle-tube housing onto the clip-on. On mine they are on the top, but with stock bars they will be on the bottom instead. Since mine are on top, it's actually easier to see. I've heard stories of people having big problems removing these, but mine weren't that bad. If one is too tight, try the other one first before stripping the first one off. I've also read that these are actually JIS-type screw heads, and not standard phillips, so it might work better if you use the JIS screwdriver that came with your bike, or buy a set.
Next, remove the bar-end weight. Just hold the weight itself securely, and remove the screw in the end. It's long winded, so takes a while to back out.
Here's a shot with the bar-end weight removed. Note the throttle-tube extends out past the end of the actual bar, and the weight goes up into it.
Ok, next are a couple shots of what you will see once you remove the top of the throttle-tube housing. This is the stock throttle-tube with cables still in it.
I took pics of a few angles so you could get a good view of it. Notice the housing is far larger than the cable-end of the tube, allowing room for a larger tube as well. :thumbsup:
Here's a pic of the throttle cover that comes off; note it is large, and has no obstructions in it. The larger R6 tube fits fine in this side!
Ok, next up, we need to talk about the throttle cable connections that come into the housing. Since you will need all the slack you can get in the cables, I recommend loosening the locknuts that hold the cable elbows to the housing, and unlock the cable adjuster on the right of the pic, and screw it all the way down, as shown in the pic. You are looking to loosen the cables as much as possible here, to get them off of the stock tube, and then onto the R6 tube without having to loosen the cables at the throttle body.
I actually had to slide the throttle-tube off the bar to wrangle enough slack to get the cables out of the stock tube. I used a small screwdriver to get my fingers under the cable, and push the end of the cable out of the tube. It's not easy, so work with it, and be careful not to nick or damage the cables in any way.
Here's a shot of the end of the throttle cables, after removing from the tube entirely.
Ok, let's get to the new tube! Here's the package the R6 tube comes in, along with the part number (2C0-26240-00-00). It cost me $13 at the local Yamaha dealer, but my brother bought one a couple days later and it was $22 now, so maybe there's been a recent price increase. Either way, not much money, and the quality is good. It looks just like the Honda OEM piece, just with a larger cable end.
Next, here are several pics comparing the stock Honda tube and the R6 tube. You will notice they look very much alike, except for the much larger end on the R6 tube. I took a photo of the grips comparing them. The Yamaha grip is slightly different than the Honda one, but I'd be willing to bet no one notices. I'm leaving it until they wear out, and I'll replace both.