Honda CBR 1000RR Forums banner

061Krr Suspension- Spend my Money

6K views 37 replies 11 participants last post by  Jaybird180 
#1 ·
I’m thinking about what I want to do to the suspension of my 06 1krr. My last round of suspension upgrades was on my 02 F4i and I was satisfied. I got a great deal on an Ohlins shock and Racetech compression Gold Valve kit and I got the forks done by Ed of Trackside Engineering. Ed put in some RT 1.0 springs and a GSXR Showa rebound valve with a custom shim stack. I did minor tweaks from where it was set when he sent it to me and I’ve never had a problem with the front end, except for when I let a hack twiddle with it at a trackday a couple years ago. I sent that Ohlins shock to Dan Kyle and he resprung it and sent it back to me. If an old email properly documents the situation, altogether including having a Honda dealer install a new swingarm thrown in the Ohlins deal was about $1,400.

I got my 1krr in July 2016 and I’ve had some teething pains with it, but thanks to my good buddy Will I was able to make at least 1 trackday weekend at the end of the 2016 season, and I’m happy about that. Will changed out the fork seals due to them leaking and I forgot to ask him what oil he used .

Sadly I’ve never set sag on the 1k or turned any suspension knobs (I do think I know what I’m doing) because I wanted to see what was there based on feel/ performance, etc and I felt that the bike performed consistently on the street and track- can’t say the same for her pilot’s track manners.

Only undesirable track behavior I noticed was an occasional tendency to feel vague and/or to feel like it’s pushing the front in T5 at NCBike, which is a long sweeping left- a keyhole actually. There were also a couple instances of feeling a reluctance to steer in a couple corners.

I suspect that my 215lbs was too much for the rear end of the bike (at whatever setting it’s at) and a rear loaded geometry and insufficient throttle roll-on in T5 to get the bike’s rear to anti-squat could explain the handling “issues”.

To remedy, I plan to first take some measurements and see if my hypothesis hold true, then I’ve narrowed down my selections of parts to throw at the bike. I’ve decided that a revalve/ respring fits within my budget, riding intentions (1-mostly street; I like to commute to work and attend the occasional social event and 2- I would like to do a few more trackdays; I have 4 school days already booked for 2017 May) and the fact that I want bang for the buck and the engineering side of me knows that a name and label don’t come with PixieDust™ (LoL).

I’ve narrowed down the choices to either Racetech to do the front and rear or GP Suspensions for the same. I haven’t done a price comparison, hoping and believing they would both be in the same ballpark and $100 shouldn’t sway me too much. I’ve gotten a knowledgeable 3rd party recommendation towards GP and that I shouldn’t need front springs with their setup.

I was interested in your guys’ thoughts. More importantly, for those that have read this far, I’d like to hear from those that have done both or either on the K6/7 Fireblade and their subjective opinions. I’d also like some subjective opinions about the customer experiences of dealing with either or both.

Thank you
 
See less See more
#2 ·
I can make them better than anything else ever marketed to the consumer for the 04-07 1000RR when it was in its prime and give you the ability to correct the geometry as well, but it doesn't come cheap...

Without trying to sound like an elitist prick, you tend to get what you pay for when it comes to motorcycle suspension. If you want to spend a little you will get a little improvement in return.

If you want to spend a lot you will never have a need for more performance out of the suspension, but you have to decide how much improvement you want. It's your bike and your money, but what you are really getting for the price paid is a greater margin of safety and a larger margin of error so you can ride faster with less drama.
 
#4 ·
This reminds me Mike, I think its near time to send my Ohlin forks and shock to you for some TLC.

To the OP, like Mike said, you get what you pay for, do it right the first time. Best money spent. Forget bling, engines mods ect. Any 1k bike has plenty of power, suspension, suspension, suspension. Kind of like real estate and location.
 
#10 ·
Today's ride.... first street ride post trackday- I always hate it and today proved true to form. I was thinking (perhaps overthinking?) about the suspension and chassis manners. Harsh, nervous and vague. The bike or the rider???

As I got more comfortable, the speed came to me and with it, the feeling of stability and bump absorption. It's the same settings that I ran the track with but I definitely feel that it needs...something but I'm not sure what. Less compression damping is for one and possibly less rebound.
 
#12 ·
No, I haven't. I haven't touched a knob on the suspension at all (yet). I haven't even checked to see where each control is set and will probably get to that this week. In the meanwhile, it's cold here again and I have a couple days this week where I can finally finish my wife's bike.
 
#15 ·
I think best course of action would be to start with getting the suspension properly dialed in by someone who does only suspension and has a good reputation for just that. This is so you can understand how the bike should feel on the stock suspension.

I understand that the 06 leaves much to be desired in the handling department. Serious tires + some kind of cartridge kit and rear shock should hopefully provide some additional confidence and feel. Playing with the geometry may also help but I cannot offer any solid advice, still learning myself.
 
#16 ·
I wrote this thread with the idea that the best value would be in a revalve and respring. Albeit a better performance gain, a cartridge kit and aftermarket shock sometimes can only provide an incremental level of improvement. I'm still working on understanding why.
 
#17 ·
On my '07 CBR, I just went with the fork oil and springs mod (plus bushings, wipers and seals by Race Tech) recommended on the Rogue Racing website. I figured I'd try a cartridge kit and extended fork cap later if I wasn't satisfied. On the rear I'm ordering Dan Kyle's Ohlins HO604 shock.
Sorry I can't give feedback yet, but we have about 3 feet of snow on the ground and it'll be at least a month before I can ride. I'll post my observations then.
P.S. Since I have a dedicated track bike, I only ride my CBR on the street.


http://www.rogueracing.org/1000rr.htm

http://www.shop.kyleusa.com/HO604-Honda-1000RR-04-07-Ohlins-Shock-HO604.htm
 
#22 ·
I just got off the phone with GP Suspensions and I'm waiting on a quote based on that conversation.

They recommended a Penske rear shock with adjustable ride height. Although I understand that the bike may need a geometry change, I can't say why most riders would need to change that geometry from environment to environment; I'm somewhat a set it and forget it kinda guy (once I get it how I like). However for my dual street/trackday use, I can see how this may come in handy.

I don't see however a need to raise both ends of the motorcycle...at least at my level of riding. I can see how too much can be dangerous and get the rider over the edge of the tirewall.

I'm beginning to wonder if I'll somehow end up with adjustable triple clamps in my future with this bike. But, I digress...
 
#24 ·
7 years away from the track, 5 years of minimal riding and a new literbike...might be awhile before I'm out of the "C" group. I've got 4 days at a school scheduled this year. I will probably book 2-4 trackdays and see if I can at least get up to "B" level by year's end.
 
#25 ·
I just got off the phone with Racetech. Their recommendation was based upon my mix of mostly street with some trackdays thrown in that I should retain my stock components. I could save a hefty chunk of change by going with their recommendation (and losing a few pounds).

I do like the idea of the added bling of a rear shock and if I wanted to stick with a single manufacturer, I could have a GS-3 shock made to my specs for $1150, which would include hi/lo compression, rebound, piggyback reservoir, remote preload and ride height adjustment. If I turned my Fireblade into a trackbike, this could be a good route to go.
 
#29 ·
With the route I went, I smashed that pricing. Lost an 8987 and found another at similar pricing but was already setup the way I needed.

Racetech didn't recommend I go with their top of the line stuff, they suggested it may not be the best ROI for me.
 
#30 ·
I appreciate the work and reporting you are doing on this topic as I am in the same boat. I am 245lbs right now and I do not feel safe on the stock suspension but do not need a full race setup. New springs/oil up front for my weight is obvious but I haven't found a revalve kit for the 2012 Showa BPFs. Also not sure which rear shock to go with.
 
#33 ·
GLad you found a kit. They may be able to revalve the stock shock also. Although the best benefit of aftermarket is fine tunability and ability to lengthen the shock to change ride height independent of preload.

Your first order of business is to get new springs. Even if you opt not to revalve front or rear, you'd be well advised to start there. A little over $200 and some fork oil, seals and bushings and you're done. Any suspension shop should be able to donthe springs front and rear for you.

I'm glad I worked with my builder. Except for having the tools I think I can do my own forks now.
 
#36 ·
Had 1st test ride today. The front will definately need some adjustment.

The attitude is noticeably steeper with the rear shock. Fortunately I found the bike stable all around.

I hope to take sag measurements tomorrow, adjust rebound and balance the chassis to make my baseline.

At the point, the shock is same as shipped to me and the forks are setup as best I could understand GPs instructions (spec sheet was a bit off).
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top