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Passenger Peg Removal

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34K views 23 replies 20 participants last post by  Bifferone  
T
#1 ·
Has anyone removed the passenger pegs yet. I've looked into it a little and seems like you have to remove or atleast significantly lift "Fender B" to get to the bolts to remove the pegs. According to the book, you have to remove the Gas Tank and all the componets in the "Fender B" to do it.

Since mine had a full tank of gas, I thought I would defer this mod till the tank was lighter.

Has anyone removed the passenger pegs yet?? Wondering how much stuff you actually have to remove.

Let me know... pics would help too. :thumbsup:
 
#4 ·
not i sir. i haven't gotten into that yet. i don't think it'll be bad, you just gotta get some working room
 
#10 ·
With the help of my mate we did this at the weekend without removing the tank.
But by removing the rear subframe.
TIPs
1- The rear cowl will slip up and over the lock and expose the rear subframe. It is a little tight - but be gentle and it will come.
Once this is removed you can get to the 2 screws that hold the rear painted section to the battery tray.
2- Undo the bolts holding the sub-frame to the tank and frame. Drop the subframe slightly - this is where you need 2 pairs of hands.
3- Then unclip the battery tray from the subframe.
4- There are 2 plastic bits that need to be prised around the subframe with a flat head screw driver (They are down towards the subframe bolts (Underneath the tray)- again be gentle.
Once these are off you can lift the tray and undo the hangers.

Now reverse the process. :thumbsup:
 
T
#12 ·
Thanks Guys. Status update. I removed the Pegs! Looks much better, but it was a proccess. A real pain... but definately Do-able.

I put some miles on bike to get the tank to reserve, which made the process easier. Removing the quick connect fuel line was a bit tricky to get both hands in the small space to release the click and remove the line, but it worked out. There is a ground bolt that holds the fender B down on the front right. The other semi tricky part was there's a screw holding the fender B to the under-tail under the fuse box. Once you move that stuff around the fender could be moved to get a 6mm allen in and remove the pegs. Re-assembly went pretty good. I had some confusion on the clip for the quick connet fuel line. The line has flat sides that the clip mates up to, esle it will not lock on.

I like the look much better.

Next on my list is an Exhaust. (performace driven) Heard the Arrows are supposed to be good. I had a Micron on my 929, it works pretty good. Also, Frame Sliders/Sharkskinz/520 kit and some rim tape. =)
 
J
#14 ·
I removed mine without removing or disconnecting the subframe or taking the tank off. I was prepping my bike for my fender eliminator and took the rear fairing off. Since I was removing the fender anyway I disconnected the wire connectors for both the brakes and turn signals (this will give you more working room). Pop the fuse panel up from its holder and you will find a screw that holds the battery tray to the painted underfender. I had not unhooked my exhuaust valve servo cable yet, but noticed that when I did it allowed me to rotate the entire battery tray up and forward towards the tank. (Just be careful not to go to far and break something) The bolts are a 6mm allen head, and are kinda tight. I had to use a ratchet set up to break them loose. This was about a two beer job to take everything apart. Now if my eliminator kit would just get here... If anyone needs pics I'll try to get some before everything goes back together.

Hop
 
Z
#16 ·
I removed mine and it was a alot more labor intensive than any bike I've ever owned but the end result is worth the effort. Just take your time & don't break off any tabs! At least you are not left with peg holes or brackets when yiur done.
 
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#18 ·
Good post Losper but the easiest way to do it is remove the tail unit and then split the subframe you then unbolt the pillion hangers and bolt the subframe back together and put the seat unit back on.

Best with 2 people but can be done with 1 person and rope to hold the back end up.

Russ
 
O
#19 ·
+1 on splitting the subframe. Relatively easy that way. Thanks Deathace!

Had it apart (actually still have it apart) to install an R&G Tail Tidy and a CA integrated taillight so I removed the passenger pegs as well.

I'm debating installing tiny turn signals on the Tail Tidy in addition to the CA integrated signals so I probably won't put it all back together for a while. Pics to follow when it's all back together.
 
#20 ·
Just did mine today ..... what a mission but the splitting subframe way is the way to go! I also fitted the evotech tailtidy while i was doing it .... Improves the look of the bike so much. Thanks to those who posted help :)
 
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#21 ·
the pegs is gone...

found this thread using some weird "search" feature... :th_SmlyROFL:

The splitting of the sub-frame? Yeah, REALLY liked that idea. Thanks guys, I'm one step closer to cleaning up the profile of my bike. :thumbsup:
 
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#23 ·
Lot of good ideas here, but I have the best, most proven way to do any PIA bike mechanical/cowling work:

1) Get the Factory Service Manual!

2) Call over a good friend with good mechanical skills.

3) Lay in a case of beer, hootchie weed, whatever melts your butter.:beer::th_coolio::dur::stoner:

4) Get obliterated and watch your GOOD friend stay sober and do all the work. Give him a "dayum you're good at that!" every few minutes.:thumbsup::thumbsup::hail::hail::hail:
 
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