Front brakes causing extreme drag on rotors - Honda CBR1000 Forum : 1000RR.net
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-05-2019, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
Thebigorange
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Front brakes causing extreme drag on rotors

Hi this thread is in regards for my 2006 honda cbr 1000rr I'm extreamly lost rn and need some help. I was out for my first ride after reinstalling my master cylinder and installing a brand new brake lever after my last one snapped in half,after the install I flushed the front brakes and bleed them to where I was getting firm breaking that felt like normal.Today I met with some buddies and when out of my first ride for about 10 mins things were fine then the brakes progressively got harder and harder to the point where I was doing 45 on a road when my front brakes locked up completely and a puff of smoke came off the calipers and I came to a dead stop unable to move the bike. I checked the reservoir and noticed that the fluid was over the upper level line so I popped it open and siphoned some fluid out with a rubber hose thinking I overfilled to the point of no room in the reservoir and that's what caused the caliper to push the pads into the rotor without me touching the brake.After making it home I did the following

1.let the bike cool down bleed the front(no air just fluid DOT4)
2.adjusted the brake lever (I had it really tight with no play)
3.inspected the pads and rotors(looked fine rotors were filthy)

The pads skid against the rotor and and if I let the bike cool down they ease up a little but still drag and if I ride it around the parking lot it will always lock the front up and I have to wait for them to release pressure on their own. I know this is a lot but i wanted to give the most detail description as possible to understand my situation
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-05-2019, 09:36 AM
Liquid_IQ
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Did you bleed the MC? It has a separate bleeder screw.
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-05-2019, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
Thebigorange
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Yes I did bleed that one as well
Here's a list of things I'm going to try next
1.rebuilding master cylinder
2.rebuilding calipers
3.replacing front brake pads
4.measuring rotors
5.flushing the brakes and bleeding them again
Let me know if you have anything else I could try
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-05-2019, 08:43 PM
rule62
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Have you checked to make sure the new lever is not the culprit. Many stories of people not lining the pin up correctly to make sure the plunger into the MC is allowed to return to rest when the lever is let go. Others have had problems with the pin not being machined properly to accept the MC plunger. If the plunger has no free-play or is partially pressed in when the lever is at rest, pressure will stay in the line, and build up with heat from the drag it produces, causing the brakes to eventually bind/lock.

Last edited by rule62; 04-05-2019 at 11:56 PM.
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-05-2019, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
Thebigorange
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I believe you might be right on I noticed a small dent where the plunger meets up with the lever so I might be buying a new lever because I can't get proper clearance with this one
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-05-2019, 11:45 PM
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Not sure if you like CRG brand, but I bought mine from their direct site for cheap. The brake levers are the same for your 2006 (even though the listing says '08-'11). They arrived quickly and fit/work great.

They've got short (gray, gold, black) and standard (gold) for only $39.95.

https://www.crg-direct.com/mm5/merch...gory_Code=SWAP

Note: Doing some deeper digging into their site, I found the brake lever part #s are in fact the same between model years '04-'16 (RN-521), as I stated above. The clutch lever part #'s are different however. AN-651 for '04-'07, AN-642 for '08-forward. But for the discount price of the brake lever to fix your issue, you could get their full price clutch lever (for a matching set, if that's important to you) and still save a bunch in comparison to other brands.

Last edited by rule62; 04-06-2019 at 12:03 AM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-06-2019, 08:09 AM
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There is a posting for some CRG levers on the site right now.

Good call on the lever, I was struggling to reconcile the "hard" lever with the dragging brakes. Air in the line would make the lever spongy, and OP said he bled everything well.
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-06-2019, 12:27 PM
rule62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquid_IQ View Post
There is a posting for some CRG levers on the site right now.
To OP: I'm all in for spending amongst forum members first... just be mindful that the clutch lever in this listing will not fit your 2006. (notice the ...AN-642... part # on the box) Your 2006 has a hydraulic clutch. 2008 - forward have cable clutches.

Another note about CRG part #'s: It looks like the "2" that proceeds the part # indicates a black lever mount. The part #'s of the levers on their direct site (the ones I bought) are not preceded by "2" and have bare aluminum (silver) mounts, as pictured. The levers on their direct/discount site are the RC1 model.

Last edited by rule62; 04-06-2019 at 12:42 PM.
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-07-2019, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rule62 View Post
To OP: I'm all in for spending amongst forum members first... just be mindful that the clutch lever in this listing will not fit your 2006. (notice the ...AN-642... part # on the box) Your 2006 has a hydraulic clutch. 2008 - forward have cable clutches.

Another note about CRG part #'s: It looks like the "2" that proceeds the part # indicates a black lever mount. The part #'s of the levers on their direct site (the ones I bought) are not preceded by "2" and have bare aluminum (silver) mounts, as pictured. The levers on their direct/discount site are the RC1 model.
Ah, for some reason I read it as the OP having a 2016 not 2006...
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post #10 of 11 Old Yesterday, 04:52 PM
Fireblade61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rule62 View Post
Have you checked to make sure the new lever is not the culprit. Many stories of people not lining the pin up correctly to make sure the plunger into the MC is allowed to return to rest when the lever is let go. Others have had problems with the pin not being machined properly to accept the MC plunger. If the plunger has no free-play or is partially pressed in when the lever is at rest, pressure will stay in the line, and build up with heat from the drag it produces, causing the brakes to eventually bind/lock.
Yep yep yep to this. Junk ass Chinese lever made my front brake lock up at around 70mph in the middle I-95. Luck I suppose, I felt the bike slowing down, so I gave the throttle full twist and managed to steer to the edge of the road. Front wheel was completely locked last few feet. Damn scary.


Leather up, rubber down
08 1000rr, +80,000 miles
Evolve GT #61 Int.
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