2017 MIL won’t turn off or read out any codes - Honda CBR1000 Forum : 1000RR.net
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post #1 of 14 Old 06-11-2019, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
nxSpeedjunkienx
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So this happened after a local mobile dyno event. Here’s the story.

I was third in line for the dyno. I’ve gotten my bike dynoed before at a local shop. With a check engine light on right after, but went off after 2/3 cycles of riding the bike for a few min(I’m assuming front wheel sensor).

Anyways back to the mobile dyno. As they are ready to put my bike on they call me over and ask me to take off the traction control and ABS. I tell them only TC can be disabled and that it’s been on a dyno before as is just fine.

They pull the bike into the dyno and tie down the chassis. The operator starts the bike but stalls it...fuckin newb. I run up there to tell them to make sure traction control is still off, they said it was(I verified that it doesn’t disengage if the bike is stalled) and proceed. The bike sounds great, they do three pulls, pull it off and park it to the side.

Later(about an hour) I get on and start her up and see the MIL light. Ok no biggie probably the front wheel sensor again. Worst case I can reset it when i get home if it doesn’t cycle off.

On the way home the bike felt a bit in limp mode, no rev limiter or anything but didn’t feel as peppy. Then I had a crazy experience with my quick-shifter, going about 100 mph I down shift twice but the bike goes into neutral then out of no where finds second gear via the QS and get so much torque in the real wheel I almost biffed it.

I get home, plug in the SCS and start the bike to start the DTC procedure, but it won’t read(blink out) a code. See the attached picture. See the dashes, well that just flashes and nothing more or less.

I do have the service manual for the bike, but I don’t have a multimeter, or probe tool. I figured I may be able to use a paper clip from behind. I just have a volt meter.

Also upon further inspection of the quick-shifter I found a loose bolt, which was causing a small separation from gearshift to spindle. Maybe this and the dyno cause the MIL?

The menu will also not allow me to initialize the QS(I think this is the core issue!)

One last thing. I have the extended warranty from Honda and have an appointment on the 22nd but would rather see if I could figure it out myself.

Thanks.
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File Type: jpg FD751239-D634-408C-B2B4-6428991C170B_1560282705417.jpg (66.3 KB, 7 views)
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post #2 of 14 Old 06-11-2019, 07:20 PM
Shinji43
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When you go in your menu to Service>Maintenance, do you see anything on that page? Your light in the photo isn’t the CEL/MIL light (the one that would appear on the screen looks exactly like the one you’d see on the lower right corner of your dash, if illuminated you’d typically have both on), that is the service required light. I’ve honestly never seen that illuminated yet on my bike, but given it’s showing a +440mi, I’d say it thinks it’s overdue for a service for some reason?
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File Type: jpg BC073876-5039-4586-9C06-CF9A53D926A0_1560298680939.jpg (139.3 KB, 4 views)

2003 CBR 954RR (Track Only)
2007 CBR 1000RR Repsol Edition
2017 CBR 1000RR SP #093
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post #3 of 14 Old 06-11-2019, 07:21 PM
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What was your dyno number?

The only time the Quick Shifter needs to be initialized, is if it is new or replaced and needs to be initialized.

IF you dyno the bike with the front wheel speed enabled the bike will go into shut down mode, either while on the dyno by literally killing the igntion as revs pass 13,000 or at the next ignition cycle.

Folks, you cannot dyno the 2017+ with the front wheel speed sensor enabled - the bike MUST do a full rollout test to determine if the wheel speed sensors and gearing is correct. If any wheel speed sensors doesn't work the QS will not function correctly.

You would need to use Woolich to disable the front wheel speed sensor to accomplish a proper dyno run.

Why downshift twice? Mechanical over rev will eventually lock up the rear wheel - not even a Suter slipper clutch could help you there.

I am also very confident the dealership will not be of use in diagnosing your issue unless they are very familiar with servicing 2017+ bikes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nxSpeedjunkienx View Post
On the way home the bike felt a bit in limp mode, no rev limiter or anything but didn’t feel as peppy. Then I had a crazy experience with my quick-shifter, going about 100 mph I down shift twice but the bike goes into neutral then out of no where finds second gear via the QS and get so much torque in the real wheel I almost biffed it.
What do you men by the bolded bit?

The QS is not an air-shifter, it can't change the gear for you, it is just a switch that will facilitate an ignition cut to ease full throttle shifts. You still need to put pressure on the shift pedal with your foot.



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Last edited by RC45; 06-11-2019 at 10:20 PM.
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post #4 of 14 Old 06-12-2019, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
nxSpeedjunkienx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shinji43 View Post
When you go in your menu to Service>Maintenance, do you see anything on that page? Your light in the photo isn’t the CEL/MIL light (the one that would appear on the screen looks exactly like the one you’d see on the lower right corner of your dash, if illuminated you’d typically have both on), that is the service required light. I’ve honestly never seen that illuminated yet on my bike, but given it’s showing a +440mi, I’d say it thinks it’s overdue for a service for some reason?
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC45 View Post
What was your dyno number?

The only time the Quick Shifter needs to be initialized, is if it is new or replaced and needs to be initialized.

IF you dyno the bike with the front wheel speed enabled the bike will go into shut down mode, either while on the dyno by literally killing the igntion as revs pass 13,000 or at the next ignition cycle.

Folks, you cannot dyno the 2017+ with the front wheel speed sensor enabled - the bike MUST do a full rollout test to determine if the wheel speed sensors and gearing is correct. If any wheel speed sensors doesn't work the QS will not function correctly.

You would need to use Woolich to disable the front wheel speed sensor to accomplish a proper dyno run.

Why downshift twice? Mechanical over rev will eventually lock up the rear wheel - not even a Suter slipper clutch could help you there.

I am also very confident the dealership will not be of use in diagnosing your issue unless they are very familiar with servicing 2017+ bikes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nxSpeedjunkienx View Post
On the way home the bike felt a bit in limp mode, no rev limiter or anything but didn’t feel as peppy. Then I had a crazy experience with my quick-shifter, going about 100 mph I down shift twice but the bike goes into neutral then out of no where finds second gear via the QS and get so much torque in the real wheel I almost biffed it.
What do you men by the bolded bit?

The QS is not an air-shifter, it can't change the gear for you, it is just a switch that will facilitate an ignition cut to ease full throttle shifts. You still need to put pressure on the shift pedal with your foot.
Here is a video



As for the QS when dropped 2 gear, 4th-2nd, it went into neutral instead of second and the dash had a hyphen for the gear, then it just pops into second. BUT i found the issue, there was a real loose bolt by the QS, needs some lock-tite.

As for the check engine not going off I’m at a loss. When the shop gets it and fixes it I’ll update.

When I get home I’ll post the dyno sheet
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post #5 of 14 Old 06-12-2019, 11:59 AM
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Again, why are people trying to dyno the 2017+ CBRs without the front wheel speed sensor flashed out via software.

The ECU has not seen sufficient complete and correct ignition cycles to clear the hard stored "front wheel speed sensor failure" code.

If the dealership has not dealt with the 2017+ CBR enough they may even try bill you for a new ECU if they can't reset the hard stored code.

The reality is, if the bike really is 100% stock with all equipment still attached then the issue will be resolved by hard resting the hard stored ECU error.

All this was induced by the full throttle runs on the dyno with the front wheel speed sensor not disabled.

If the bike is modified then I suspect there is more to this story we have yet to hear



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post #6 of 14 Old 06-12-2019, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
nxSpeedjunkienx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC45 View Post
Again, why are people trying to dyno the 2017+ CBRs without the front wheel speed sensor flashed out via software.

The ECU has not seen sufficient complete and correct ignition cycles to clear the hard stored "front wheel speed sensor failure" code.

If the dealership has not dealt with the 2017+ CBR enough they may even try bill you for a new ECU if they can't reset the hard stored code.

The reality is, if the bike really is 100% stock with all equipment still attached then the issue will be resolved by hard resting the hard stored ECU error.

All this was induced by the full throttle runs on the dyno with the front wheel speed sensor not disabled.

If the bike is modified then I suspect there is more to this story we have yet to hear <img src="http://www.1000rr.net/vb/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> [IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.1000rr.net/forums/images/smilies/stirpot.gif[/IMG][IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.1000rr.net/forums/images/smilies/gay.gif[/IMG]<img src="http://www.1000rr.net/forums/images/1000RR-net-light/smilies/tango_face_wink.png" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" /><img src="http://www.1000rr.net/forums/images/1000RR-net-light/smilies/tango_face_grin.png" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" /><img src="http://www.1000rr.net/forums/images/1000RR-net-light/smilies/tango_face_smile_big.png" border="0" alt="" title="Laugh" class="inlineimg" />
Here’s another video i put together.



The only mods the bike has is a Full system from Yoshi, MWR Race filter and a Derestrict from flash tune.

I didn’t have any issues on the Dyno the first time around either. Im gonna put the bike back together and run it around time a few times to see if it fixes anything.
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post #7 of 14 Old 06-12-2019, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nxSpeedjunkienx View Post
Here’s another video i put together.



The only mods the bike has is a Full system from Yoshi, MWR Race filter and a Derestrict from flash tune.

I didn’t have any issues on the Dyno the first time around either. Im gonna put the bike back together and run it around time a few times to see if it fixes anything.
There is your problem right there.

So your bike is modified and has been flash tune Flashed. Did I call it or what??

Your bike has never been able to be properly dynoed ever.

Flash Tune has no capability to disable the front wheel speed sensor.

You have way more issues baked into your ECU than you would want to know



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post #8 of 14 Old 06-12-2019, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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So why didn’t it do it before...?
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post #9 of 14 Old 06-12-2019, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nxSpeedjunkienx View Post
Here is a video



As for the QS when dropped 2 gear, 4th-2nd, it went into neutral instead of second and the dash had a hyphen for the gear, then it just pops into second. BUT i found the issue, there was a real loose bolt by the QS, needs some lock-tite.

As for the check engine not going off I’m at a loss. When the shop gets it and fixes it I’ll update.

When I get home I’ll post the dyno sheet
Ah ok, yea the other photo in your first post had the lower right corner of your dash blocked by your brake res, but now seeing your video I get what you mean. Typically, if the CEL light was on in both locations (lower right AND on main display) and then later clears itself on the main dash, it USUALLY does go away on the lower right after a few more driving cycles. If not, I would go in (using my Woolich software) and manually clear the DTC history (even though no codes are present anymore sometimes that little light lingers, more of a history thing it seems).

2003 CBR 954RR (Track Only)
2007 CBR 1000RR Repsol Edition
2017 CBR 1000RR SP #093
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post #10 of 14 Old 06-12-2019, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nxSpeedjunkienx View Post
So why didn’t it do it before...?
Your ECU has never been correct, ever. You have simply been operating on drive cycle random luck.

Added to that if your ECU is FTC locked then there is no way back and the Honda dealership may even have trouble hooking the master Honda ECU reader to the ECU.



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