What was your dyno number?
The only time the Quick Shifter needs to be initialized, is if it is new or replaced and needs to be initialized.
IF you dyno the bike with the front wheel speed enabled the bike will go into shut down mode, either while on the dyno by literally killing the igntion as revs pass 13,000 or at the next ignition cycle.
Folks, you cannot dyno the 2017+ with the front wheel speed sensor enabled - the bike MUST do a full rollout test to determine if the wheel speed sensors and gearing is correct. If any wheel speed sensors doesn't work the QS will not function correctly.
You would need to use Woolich to disable the front wheel speed sensor to accomplish a proper dyno run.
Why downshift twice? Mechanical over rev will eventually lock up the rear wheel - not even a Suter slipper clutch could help you there.
I am also very confident the dealership will not be of use in diagnosing your issue unless they are very familiar with servicing 2017+ bikes.
Originally Posted by nxSpeedjunkienx
On the way home the bike felt a bit in limp mode, no rev limiter or anything but didn’t feel as peppy. Then I had a crazy experience with my quick-shifter, going about 100 mph I down shift twice but the bike goes into neutral then out of no where finds second gear via the QS and get so much torque in the real wheel I almost biffed it.
What do you men by the bolded bit?
The QS is not an air-shifter, it can't change the gear for you, it is just a switch that will facilitate an ignition cut to ease full throttle shifts. You still need to put pressure on the shift pedal with your foot.