Manual cam chain tensioner - Honda CBR1000 Forum : 1000RR.net
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post #1 of 34 Old 09-17-2017, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
camman
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Manual cam chain tensioner

Who's all running a manual cam chain tensioner. Come to find out my OEM went bad. I'm just wondering how often do you have to adjust tighten it I know it depends on riding style but just a general idea so I know because looks like it's kind of a pain to get to and I'm just wondering to go manual or go back to the OEM.
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post #2 of 34 Old 09-17-2017, 04:52 PM
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I just noticed my 2011 OE CCT is rattling at 3800RPM, bike has 14K miles. Ive been following this problem since my 2001 F4i CCTL rattle. Honda released numerous revisions to the part but apparently still rattling these days. The 1000RR is nowhere near as loud as it was on my 01 F4i. My 02 F4i had the rattle also.

For whatever reason the manual tensioner doesn't appeal to me. In 2006 I modified an OE F4i CCT slightly and it did stop the rattle thankfully. It was a PITA to get to and I had to fab a small key out of sheet steel to wind up and lock the spring. It is a PITA to get to on the 1000RR as well.

This thread discusses it a bit but pictures are gone.

Apparently the rattle is caused by slight rotation of the plunger and especially the plunger tip. You can flare this pin to quiet it down significantly. When I do the PAIR mod I will do the CCT too. This pic is the 08-16 CCT 14520-MFL-013. 2004-2005 is 14520-MEL-003 2006-2007 is 14520-MFA-D02. Same goes for those.
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File Type: jpg CCTL 14520-MFL-013 pin.jpg (71.8 KB, 73 views)

Last edited by SaratogaLED; 09-17-2017 at 05:45 PM.
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post #3 of 34 Old 09-17-2017, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaratogaLED View Post
I just noticed my 2011 OE CCT is rattling at 3800RPM, bike has 14K miles. Ive been following this problem since my 2001 F4i CCTL rattle. Honda released numerous revisions to the part but apparently still rattling these days. The 1000RR is nowhere near as loud as it was on my 01 F4i. My 02 F4i had the rattle also.

For whatever reason the manual tensioner doesn't appeal to me. In 2006 I modified an OE F4i CCT slightly and it did stop the rattle thankfully. It was a PITA to get to and I had to fab a small key out of sheet steel to wind up and lock the spring. It is a PITA to get to on the 1000RR as well.

This thread discusses it a bit but pictures are gone.

Apparently the rattle is caused by slight rotation of the plunger and especially the plunger tip. You can flare the pin to quiet it down significantly. At some point I will try this on the 1000. This is the 08-16 CCT 14520-MFL-013 . Flare this pin to reduce play in the tip.

This is the first bike out of my 4 other Honda's to give me this problem. Thanks for the link I believe that I might buy a new oem one and modify the pin. The manual one just scares me that I might have it too tight and cause the chain guide to wear out prematurely or if I do need to adjust it having to pulled the tank and go through all that problem again to just take a 5-minute adjust.
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post #4 of 34 Old 09-17-2017, 09:51 PM
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Any chance you have the other pics for the mods on the standard CCT? I'm interested, i have a 2017 blade and it has a noise/vibration at 4200rpm and i'm positive its the CCT, I do have a manual one on order but am i bit worried about setting it, i would like to try mod the standard one to get it a shot if possible, do you also have any instructions or things to look out for when removing the standard one?

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post #5 of 34 Old 09-17-2017, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camman View Post
This is the first bike out of my 4 other Honda's to give me this problem. Thanks for the link I believe that I might buy a new oem one and modify the pin. The manual one just scares me that I might have it too tight and cause the chain guide to wear out prematurely or if I do need to adjust it having to pulled the tank and go through all that problem again to just take a 5-minute adjust.
Yea it is weird how only some bikes do it. My 2008 600RR with 16K miles doesnt have any CCT noise although many 600RRs do.
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post #6 of 34 Old 09-17-2017, 10:34 PM
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Yeah it is, i've owned 3 blades, my 2008 had it, my 2013 was good, and now my 2017 has it

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post #7 of 34 Old 09-17-2017, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloaney13 View Post
Any chance you have the other pics for the mods on the standard CCT? I'm interested, i have a 2017 blade and it has a noise/vibration at 4200rpm and i'm positive its the CCT, I do have a manual one on order but am i bit worried about setting it, i would like to try mod the standard one to get it a shot if possible, do you also have any instructions or things to look out for when removing the standard one?
I just checked Fowler parts and the 2017 has the same part number as the 08-16 (14520-MFL-013) so that pic above is exactly what it will look like. It is recommended to change the gasket to avoid an oil leak. The old gaskets were green paper and they got tore up in the process, not sure about these newer ones, $4 (GASKET, TENSIONER HOLE 14525-MFA-D01)

The CBR600F3 manual showed how to make a simply key to wind up the spring and lock it in place. Ill see if I can dig it up. You can buy a Honda CCT tool 07ZMG-MCAA400 but I think the price is out of whack. Some people have used a small flat screwdriver but I think it is good to make a tool and hang onto it. I believe it is needed if you need to make valve adjustments.

This thread still has pics
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File Type: jpg cct tool.jpg (39.3 KB, 59 views)

Last edited by SaratogaLED; 09-18-2017 at 02:40 AM.
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post #8 of 34 Old 09-17-2017, 10:45 PM
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Thanks alot! being that the bike is so new i hope the gasket will be ok, if not i will just get a new one or seal it, yeah i haved played around with the CCT on my 2008 blade, from memory i made something to lock it up, i was more interested in the mod, i'm guess that end piece that's in contact with the chain has freeplay and smashing that pin takes it up?

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post #9 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 02:43 AM
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That is exactly right, the end piece and the shaft itself both have a bit of rotational play so they can rotate back and forth just a bit. At 3800-4000 RPM it can click back and forth/resonate sustainably and that is why it rattles at those RPMs. When you flare that pin it stops or reduces the rotating motion for the most part.

My 01 F4i sounded really bad before the mod, marbles in the gas tank sound made the bike sound like a hunk of junk when you're driving through the neighborhood. The 02 F4i wasnt loud enough to make me go through the mod again. The 11 1000RR sounds like a cicada when it kicks in, not as loud or as bad as the 01 F4i but it is slightly annoying because I spend a lot of time at those RPMs between turns.
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post #10 of 34 Old 09-18-2017, 02:56 AM
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Yeah thanks will give the mod a try first! yeah i know how annoying it is, drives me insane! I ride it to work always at those RPM and its so annoying...

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