2008 running very poorly - Honda CBR1000 Forum : 1000RR.net
 
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post #1 of 3 Old 05-15-2019, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
Alan Wilson
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Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 8
2008 running very poorly

I pulled in for fuel at Chevron and got my usual 92 octane. A few miles down the road it starts sputtering and choking, limped it back to the garage 2 miles away and put it up on the stands for review.

Video of engine sound:


This is my first bike with FI, but I attack all the usual suspects from past experience.

Jardine slipon and pair valve delete only mods at this time. 54k miles with all interval services but was burning a little oil so I switched rings out with the superceded part.

I pull the engine, tear the top end off, clean the head, cams, journals, valves, seats, and ports, replace battery, fuel pump and strainer, air filter, FPR, secondary injectors, piston rings, replace all gaskets, thermostat, check coil resistances, test primary injectors work and backwash them out anyways, dump tank and refill with new fuel, new iridium plugs, check valve clearances, dielectric grease all connectors, ensure not to kink the fuel or vent hoses when replacing the tank.

Everything is within spec, grounds lashed down tight, good compression, timing is spot on, fuses good, charged just fine when running, every bolt torqued to spec in the appropriate pattern and double checked. Everything looks just perfect.

Start up bike, runs exactly the same as when the issue started. No excessive smoke from exhaust, no strange noises, just a freshly rebuilt Ninja 650 motor sound.

No MIL or error codes shown.

Thoughts? What did I miss?

Last edited by Alan Wilson; 05-15-2019 at 09:45 PM. Reason: uploaded video and added link
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post #2 of 3 Old 05-16-2019, 12:43 PM
09_Blade
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Posts: 44
Have you checked your manifold vacuum? At idle it should be around 20 cmHg or 8 inHg. You can measure this through the extra tube that comes out of cylinder one to the flapper system. Disconnect the tubes going to the 5-way MAP connector individually for each cylinder and check if any are way different.

Check the position of the idle air bypass screws as well. Make sure there is nothing blocking the hole in the middle. They should be about 2 to 2 1/2 turns out from all in.

Remove the IACV and verify that when the bike is turned on and kill switch flipped that it screws in (to home itself) then backs out a couple turns.

Inspect the hoses going to and from the IACV. The metal bracket that supports the fuel line tends to rub against them when the tank is lifted.
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post #3 of 3 Old 05-17-2019, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
Alan Wilson
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Join Date: May 2019
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I might as well replace it since it's cheap, and all the hoses also. I'll check vacuum pressure as well, thank you for the tip.
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