DIY Amp Econoseal J series Weatherproof connectors assembly tutorial - Honda CBR1000 Forum : 1000RR.net
 
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post #1 of 2 Old 01-03-2010, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
mikey
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DIY Amp Econoseal J series Weatherproof connectors assembly tutorial

This is a tutorial in assembling EconoSeal J Series weather resistant quick disconnect assemblies. The same units are the stock assemblies for Ducati bar switches and almost completely weatherproof. No tools required for assembly or disassembly. You need the crimping tool to properly crimp the tools. You can use a pair of pliers, and it WILL fail. It's less than $50, so spend the money, buy the crimper (Mouser part number 624-6530CT), or don't even waste your time on this. About the stripper: BUY THE KLEIN! Don't buy the crappy cheapo adjustable strippers. Spend the money, do it right. All of these parts can be purchased through Mouser.com or other sources, so none of it is some exotic part you need to know some secret handshake to get. No vendors on this site carry ANY of these parts that I'm aware of, but it might be a good idea (hint hint).




My toolbox. I have segregated bines for the pins, plugs, insterts, socket assemplies and all my tools. My tools: Stainless steel hemostats, small needlenose pliers, wire strippers, crimping tool, screwdrivers, pin insterter/extractor, shrink tube, small torch, and a multimeter.





The parts for a 2 wire connector assembly are from left to right: wire seals, pins and sockets, colored inserts, and housings. If you have an odd number of connections there is also a blank plug that looks like the wire seal, except there is no hole down the center.



Starting with the old cobbled together connection: A spade terminal with one blade cut off.



Quality workmanship at it's best:



The R6 came with a headlight connector that had 2 wires with IDENTICAL COLORS!! The Acerbis headlight had the same thing. 2 Wires per light, each light's wires the same color with no polarity markings. Nice....



I started with a set of colored wires to determine polarity. Solder the wires and shrink wrap to ensure moisture won't damage the wires.



Push the wire seal on the wire, smaller end towards the end of the wire going into the connector. Then strip the wire about 3/16" to 1/4", but no more.



The connector should be crimped using the "B" style crimper, one that turns the connection into a shape like the letter "B". DO NOT place any more of the connector into the crimper than required to crimp the barrel. Any more damages the pin.

EDIT! After talking to Brad, he noted I didn't use the crimped seal method. This was intended to be for inexperienced users. After you have some experience and the technique is improved, crimp the wire seal WITH the rear crimp band and it is a MUCH better seal.





Notice the strain relief (the rear portion of the pin) did not crimp correctly. This particular crimp tool has a relief for the rear crimp that doesn't always allow a good rear crimp. DO NOT leave the crimp like this or it will not seat and it will not seal. Placing the rear portion in the forward crimper die section will give you this:




Notice the male (pin) insert. These come in assorted colors to allow you to match connectors with the same number of pins without messing them up. As long as you;re not colorblind anyway. The connector housings have 2 pieces. For pins, use the one that looks like a cup. For sockets, use the one that has the holes in the front. ALWAYS use sockets, not pins, for the portion of the connector that stays hot (+12VDC) to avoid having the pins contact anything to short them out and pop your fuses or damage your ECU.





Insert the pin into the housing first. If you have more pins, the colored insert going into the housing before the pins is a good idea to allow the pins to line up better. There is a small depression in the pin that mates to a small lock mechanism in the housing. Line those up on the first pin, and the rest are all oriented the same way. Push the pin into the rear of the housing until you hear and feel a "click". You may need to use needlenose or hemostats to pull the pins all the way to the seated postion. I usually seat the pins with a tool just to make sure they are fully seated anyway.





Once the pins are inserted and fully seated, push the wire seals into the rear of the housing to fully seal the connector.





Repeat this for the socket (female) section of the housing. This one does NOT need the colored insert placed first as nothing passes through the insert.



And we finish with a fully weatherproof quick disconnect housing. I'll finish with another connector to take the entire light assembly away if I want to track the bike. One connector and the entire assembly comes away quick and clean.




FYI, these do NOT work with turn signals, since you can't feed the mounting nut over these connectors. I'm thinking a fabbed up bracket for set screws would fix this.

Last edited by mikey; 01-03-2010 at 02:43 PM.
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post #2 of 2 Old 01-04-2010, 01:06 AM
Grr
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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If you want to 100% seal off the wires for complete 100% water/moisture tight seal use a dab of liquid electrical tape before pushing the rubber bushings down into their sleeves. Give it a good 24hrs in a warm dry place to be sure it cures completely before using.
And of course for the actual male to female connection one should use dielectric grease. Just run a small bead around the outer edge near the rim/edge of the male connector before inserting into the female end. If you want you could also put a dollop on the top of each pin orifice on the female connector side. May be a bit over kill, but it wouldn't hurt anything. Do this and you can ride through a hurricane with no electrical issues at those connections.
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