The only performance mod on my '12 1000rr is a Yoshimura slip on. There is also a quickshifter but not sure if that affects anything as far as the ecu. I just want my bike to be running efficiently and I do not plan on racing or doing track days, it's just a weekend bike for pleasure as I'm a casual/conservative rider. I read I don't need to worry about a fuel management device since I only have a slip on. Is an ECU flash recommended or any other type of professional tune for my style of riding?

Mike- Short answer: You "need" the flash about the same as you "needed" the Yosh and Quickshifter.


Longer answer: Every bike comes from the factory with compromises built in. Most of the compromises that are programmed into the ECU are governmental compliance requirements levied upon the manufacturer. DOT and EPA regulations assume that the purchaser does not have the means to remove the restrictions. I'm not a lawyer, but I suspect that some modifications could make the vehicle technically illegal in certain states/jurisdictions due to noise or other pollutants that the restrictions were designed to tame- noise being the most of it, I suspect. So Caveat Emptor is a general disclaimer.


I've heard nothing but good things from those that have done ECU flashing with exception of @LDH who reported a customer service problem with a certain vendor who did his ZX-10 before he purchased it.

Thank you for the follow up, the quickshifter was from previous owner and the Yoshi pipe was to replace the Two Bros that previous owner had. I definitely didn't need the Yoshimura but I did get it for the looks and sound. I'm just wondering if I'm causing an imbalance with the fuel delivery or whatever because of the slip on, I just want to make sure it's running efficiently but it feels fine but then again I've only had the bike for a few weeks now. I don't know much about this stuff but I appreciate your info, definitely makes sense and helps me.

Consensus seems to be you can run a slipon with stock ECU. OR you can run stock exhaust with Zbomb on stock ECU. IMO Zbomb is a better mod than a slip on (if you ever go above 10500 RPM WOT).

ECU flash is $190 and you get the benefits of Zbomb without installing one. You also get benefit of the slip on top end power and 8 pound savings. So I think it is safe to say ECU flash makes Zbomb pretty much obsolete and ECU flash is one of the best bang for the buck mods.

Not bad numbers

I just ordered the ECU flash, and I will be sending my ECU tomorrow. My question is, will the reflash be able to remove the "on-off switch" nature of my throttle at "1%" throttle? It's a real problem for me in low speed corners.

Your vendor would be best to answer but there's an ECU feature called "in-gear idle speed" that can do wonders with the low range area just getting back on the gas. I suspect a re-tune (per your sig) can also help.

If ECU flash doesn't help, adjusting chain tension might reduce on-off lash. Not sure if it is best to coast through with clutch in or putter through in 1st?

I have heard that you can pull clutch in and rev up the motor to get some centrifugal force assistance but it doesnt seem to help much.

I think coasting through the turn with the clutch is a riding error. The throttle should come on as soon as possible, meaning the steering action is completed and the bike is pointed in the intended direction and you're on-line. You can then begin to smoothly roll on the power, transferring the weight to the rear tire's larger contact patch. Can't do that with the clutch disengaged.


It never dawned on me that's what @BEUJAXXON was talking about. However, I have ridden bikes that have a distinctive on/off notchiness feel to them. I haven't felt it on my Fireblade but on my F4i I would sometimes have to roll on the throttle to take up chain slack first then I can begin the throttle roll. That chain slack took up a little extra time and attention. It stopped doing it, so I think it may have been a maintenance issue.

Yes I thought he was talking about taking a 90 degree right hander on the street at a stop sign etc, often covered in sand and pebbles. Our bikes have so much power on tap in 1st gear that if you keep the clutch fully engaged the tiniest throttle movement will snap the power on, made worse by drive lash. Now that I re-read it looks like he is talking about on track? I agree that on track coasting with clutch in is incorrect form and probably never slow enough to be necessary.