PAIR block off plates headache - Honda CBR1000 Forum : 1000RR.net
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-28-2019, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
iceman1
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PAIR block off plates headache

So I wanted to remove the PAIR system and install block off plates as I am considering a dyno tune in the future. However, after I got down to removing the stock covers on the reed valves I got lucky enough to have 2 of 4 bolts break off on me (one on each cover)... I tried using EZOUTs to remove what was left since none of the bolt was sticking out. Those did not work and I even managed to break one and bend another. At this point I'm ready to pull my hair out and I just went ahead and starting drilling out the rest of what I could. So now the bolts are mostly drilled out although I haven't drilled a large enough hole to start taking material off the valve cover. My current plan is to drill them out into the valve cover a bit and then tap a new hole (M7 or M8) if I can fit a tap in there. I was wondering if I could save myself the hassle and just use something like JB weld to permanently attach the block off plates to the valve cover? Would there ever be an instance that you would want to remove the block off plates?

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-28-2019, 03:01 AM
RC45
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Don't install block off plates, plug the hoses per HRC instructions.

I have the process somewhere in my build thread.

I'll look for it tomorrow and post the link to the page.

This is the link to the HRC style PAIR mod buried in my build thread.

https://www.1000rr.net/forums/modifi...-build-27.html

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The Good RS250R NF5 The Bad TZ250 2KM The Ugly LS7 C5Z07 Gone but not forgotten RC45 Delivered US SP2 #65

SP2 Delivery Thread < - Delivery Thread

RC45's SP2 Trackday Bike Build Thread <- Build Thread

RC45's US vs UK ETV Tables Dyno <- Dyno Page

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Last edited by RC45; 03-28-2019 at 10:16 AM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 03-28-2019, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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I'm unfortunately past that point already. I already tried taking the covers off which is how I broke the bolts. In hindsight I definitely should have just plugged them like you suggested but since they are off already I might as well install the plates now. I'm just trying to find the easiest way to do it since either way (install plates or reinstall covers and block them) I still have to deal with 2 mounting holes that I can't put a bolt into.
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-28-2019, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman1 View Post
I'm unfortunately past that point already. I already tried taking the covers off which is how I broke the bolts. In hindsight I definitely should have just plugged them like you suggested but since they are off already I might as well install the plates now. I'm just trying to find the easiest way to do it since either way (install plates or reinstall covers and block them) I still have to deal with 2 mounting holes that I can't put a bolt into.
I spoke with a few folks last year and in the most dire cases they obtained replacement cylinder head cover. New they are about $250 and way cheaper used. eBay has various years for $50 to $80.

Otherwise you will need to do some sort of drill/tap/bolt repair job.



The Good RS250R NF5 The Bad TZ250 2KM The Ugly LS7 C5Z07 Gone but not forgotten RC45 Delivered US SP2 #65

SP2 Delivery Thread < - Delivery Thread

RC45's SP2 Trackday Bike Build Thread <- Build Thread

RC45's US vs UK ETV Tables Dyno <- Dyno Page

PAIR Mod HRC Style <- HRC PAIR Page

Myths & Mysteries of the SP2 ECU Thread <- ECU Thread
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-28-2019, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC45 View Post
I spoke with a few folks last year and in the most dire cases they obtained replacement cylinder head cover. New they are about $250 and way cheaper used. eBay has various years for $50 to $80.

Otherwise you will need to do some sort of drill/tap/bolt repair job.
Yea that's a good backup if I manage to completely mess this up.

I just feel like epoxying down the block off plates would be way easier than going through the hassle of drilling/tapping if there's no reason to ever remove them. Thoughts?
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-15-2019, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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I finally got around to fixing this and did so by getting some JB Weld and the Driven block off plates and just epoxying the crap out of the plates. I left the reeds and baffles in to give a bit more surface area to spread the epoxy since the walls themselves are pretty thin. Went for 2 test rides and the engine seems to be running well, especially on the low end (did the flapper mod while I was waiting for the epoxy to cure). This epoxy is good up to 550F as well so no worries there. Just wanted to post my solution in case anyone else has the misfortune of breaking the bolts off in the valve cover... My advice, along with what most others have said: just plug the hoses, it's not worth the headache of snapped off bolts.
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-15-2019, 11:29 PM
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There aren't enough u's in suck to describe having to go through that. I don't remember there being threadlock on those when I did mine.
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-16-2019, 06:04 PM
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I did block off plates on both my rr’s. My 2012 had about 10k miles when I did them. No issues. My sp2 had roughly 1500k when I did it. Those were stuck pretty good but soaked pb blaster on them for an hour or so. Just gotta be easy on em. Sometimes it helps to tighten then loosen, tighten, then loosen, etc.... I also left the reed cages out.
Glad you got it to work tho.

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post #9 of 9 Old 05-16-2019, 08:42 PM
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JB Weld is the shit
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