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Take a look in your owner’s manual and you’ll find a recommendation for an API (American Petroleum Institute) service type and a JASO (Japanese Automotive Standards Organization) standard. These little letter codes might seem insignificant, but you don’t want to ignore them. The API classification refers to the automobile model years the oil was designed to work on. It speaks to things like lubrication properties, detergent properties, and other factors and gets updated every few years. All API classifications for gasoline engines start with an S, followed by the letter A through the current N standard. Buy an SA-service oil (not hard to find at gas stations and discount stores) and you’ll be running your engine on oil that the API warns “may cause unsatisfactory performance and equipment harm.” That admonishment extends to SD-classified oils as well. Most motorcycle manufacturers call for an SG rating (introduced in 1995) or higher, so always look for the latest designation when buying oil.
Traditionally motorcycles used oil designed for automobiles, but as fuel efficiency demands for cars increased, friction modifiers have been added to the oil package. Certain kinds of friction modifiers, however, are great for cars and light trucks but can cause clutch slip in motorcycles. Recognizing that certain oils were causing issues for motorcyclists, the JASO stepped up and introduced two standards for motorcycle oils based on the SAE’s (Society of Automotive Engineers)Clutch Friction Test: MA for bikes with wet clutches and MB for bikes with automatic transmissions. If your bike has a wet clutch you’ll want to make sure you see that motorcycle-specific MA classification. Conversely, you want to steer clear of MB oils and any oil that’s labeled as “energy conserving” since both blends will contain problematic friction modifiers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wondering as I must top up.
A friend uses this oil in his Honda Transalp 1000 without issues.
 
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