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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am not sure if there is a thread about this already. Nonetheless, I do not use the exhaust flapper motor on my '08 1000rr because i have a yoshimura exhaust. So I thought, why not remove the flapper motor from the battery tray and free up some space under the seat. Unfortunally, when I remove the flapper motor the engine light on the dash panel come on. Does anyone know how to get around this?

Thanks,

Eddie
 

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I am not sure if there is a thread about this already. Nonetheless, I do not use the exhaust flapper motor on my '08 1000rr because i have a yoshimura exhaust. So I thought, why not remove the flapper motor from the battery tray and free up some space under the seat. Unfortunally, when I remove the flapper motor the engine light on the dash panel come on. Does anyone know how to get around this?

Thanks,

Eddie

Leave the servo motor plugged in and just take off the cable running to it. It has to be plugged in or you will throw a code.
 

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"Everyone likes freebies right? Especially in the power delivery department. In a time where horsepower typically cost $100 US per, it's nice to find ways to add ponies for free. The flapper modification is one of the easiest and most cost effective modifications that can be made to the CBR 1000RR. There is a plastic "flapper" door mounted in the front of the intake. The flap only operates with the bike in gear, load on the motor, and the clutch engaged (i.e. as if you were riding). You can not see the flap open and close with the bike up on a stand. If you look at the front of the bike just behind the front forks this flap is visible behind a small screen above the radiator. The flap remains shut at lower RPMs and is yet another emissions device that Honda put in place to meet noise limitations. This flap opens above 5,600 RPMs similar to the exhaust valve. The problem is that while this flap is closed the motor is forced to breath through two small openings on either side of the flap robbing the motor of low end power.

Disabling this flapper is very simple. You simply pull the vacuum hose off the gold flapper diaphragm valve and plug the vacuum hose with a suitable object such as a finely threaded screw. You don't have to remove any fairings to complete this, but I did to give me more access and allow me to secure the vacuum hose to the electrical wiring behind the fuse box. The hose is visible from the left side of the bike through the upper opening in the fairing. If your hand is small enough simply reach in and pull it from the diaphragm valve, just be careful to wriggle it loose so as not to dislodge the diaphragm valve. Once you have the vacuum hose plugged, secure the object in the hose with a zip tie, then zip tie the hose securely and safely out of the way of hot engine parts. You can also unplug the electrical connection from the solenoid to accomplish this modification, but I feel the vacuum tube method is the better way to go as you don't have to worry about water getting into any open electrical connections."

i dunno if that will help or not.. thats from a 05 1k respol
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Leave the servo motor plugged in and just take off the cable running to it. It has to be plugged in or you will throw a code.
Thanks Diddy. That's exactly how I have it running currenlty. I just wanted to remove the motor altogether. I just thought that there would be some kind of relay that you would plug into the servo that would avoid the code, thus allowing you to have some extra space in the battery tray.

Thanks again,

Eddie
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
"Everyone likes freebies right? Especially in the power delivery department. In a time where horsepower typically cost $100 US per, it's nice to find ways to add ponies for free. The flapper modification is one of the easiest and most cost effective modifications that can be made to the CBR 1000RR. There is a plastic "flapper" door mounted in the front of the intake. The flap only operates with the bike in gear, load on the motor, and the clutch engaged (i.e. as if you were riding). You can not see the flap open and close with the bike up on a stand. If you look at the front of the bike just behind the front forks this flap is visible behind a small screen above the radiator. The flap remains shut at lower RPMs and is yet another emissions device that Honda put in place to meet noise limitations. This flap opens above 5,600 RPMs similar to the exhaust valve. The problem is that while this flap is closed the motor is forced to breath through two small openings on either side of the flap robbing the motor of low end power.

Disabling this flapper is very simple. You simply pull the vacuum hose off the gold flapper diaphragm valve and plug the vacuum hose with a suitable object such as a finely threaded screw. You don't have to remove any fairings to complete this, but I did to give me more access and allow me to secure the vacuum hose to the electrical wiring behind the fuse box. The hose is visible from the left side of the bike through the upper opening in the fairing. If your hand is small enough simply reach in and pull it from the diaphragm valve, just be careful to wriggle it loose so as not to dislodge the diaphragm valve. Once you have the vacuum hose plugged, secure the object in the hose with a zip tie, then zip tie the hose securely and safely out of the way of hot engine parts. You can also unplug the electrical connection from the solenoid to accomplish this modification, but I feel the vacuum tube method is the better way to go as you don't have to worry about water getting into any open electrical connections."

i dunno if that will help or not.. thats from a 05 1k respol
Thanks Crazy....however I was talking about the exhaust flapper engine on the 2008 CBR 1000.
 

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"Everyone likes freebies right? Especially in the power delivery department. In a time where horsepower typically cost $100 US per, it's nice to find ways to add ponies for free. The flapper modification is one of the easiest and most cost effective modifications that can be made to the CBR 1000RR. There is a plastic "flapper" door mounted in the front of the intake. The flap only operates with the bike in gear, load on the motor, and the clutch engaged (i.e. as if you were riding). You can not see the flap open and close with the bike up on a stand. If you look at the front of the bike just behind the front forks this flap is visible behind a small screen above the radiator. The flap remains shut at lower RPMs and is yet another emissions device that Honda put in place to meet noise limitations. This flap opens above 5,600 RPMs similar to the exhaust valve. The problem is that while this flap is closed the motor is forced to breath through two small openings on either side of the flap robbing the motor of low end power.

Disabling this flapper is very simple. You simply pull the vacuum hose off the gold flapper diaphragm valve and plug the vacuum hose with a suitable object such as a finely threaded screw. You don't have to remove any fairings to complete this, but I did to give me more access and allow me to secure the vacuum hose to the electrical wiring behind the fuse box. The hose is visible from the left side of the bike through the upper opening in the fairing. If your hand is small enough simply reach in and pull it from the diaphragm valve, just be careful to wriggle it loose so as not to dislodge the diaphragm valve. Once you have the vacuum hose plugged, secure the object in the hose with a zip tie, then zip tie the hose securely and safely out of the way of hot engine parts. You can also unplug the electrical connection from the solenoid to accomplish this modification, but I feel the vacuum tube method is the better way to go as you don't have to worry about water getting into any open electrical connections."

i dunno if that will help or not.. thats from a 05 1k respol
This is not as simple on the 08. It requires a lot more work than just unplugging a hose and blocking it off. The 08 flapper doors stay closed if you disconnect the vacuum hoses and must be removed.

Leave the servo motor plugged in and just take off the cable running to it. It has to be plugged in or you will throw a code.
+1 and it has been discussed in other threads. There is at least 1 thread discussing all the different failed attempts at making a device to replace the servo motor so the bike won't throw a code. It's why none of the aftermarket exhaust installation instructions have you remove it. If it was OK to remove, they would mention that option in the instructions. I know the Talylor Made instructions specifically mention that you must leave it.
If you really can't stand the servo motor taking up all that space under the seat and you really need to take it off the bike, you can spend $1000+ on an HRC ECU setup. So far, the HRC ECU is the only way to successfully remove the servo motor.
 

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If you've got money to burn (don't know if it even works with the '08-'09 bikes):

Looks like they want $100+shipping for it... :eek:


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Or you can convince Dyno Jet to produce one:

You guys think there is a market for this? We have been making them for racers for years but never thought anyone would pay $50-60 for one of these!
 

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Have you solved the problem with removing the exhaust servo motor of your -08?
You need to keep up with the times and search. This thread isn't that old and it's still active.
 

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CarbonFiber Undertail FTW
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so once you remove the cable from the servo motor, can you remove the cable from the exhaust/muffler itself?
(short of cutting it)


i'd assume the other end of the cable is attached somehow to the flapper, inside the exhaust/muffler.
so i'd figure just removing the locking nut on it, and twisting the cable housing out; wouldnt work, as the cable would still be connected internally.... (?)

help?


EDIT: ok screwed around with it a bit. you gotta disconnect the cable inside the muffler. use a pair of long sissor type vice grips, or some other tool that can reach into the muffler outlet where the flapper is. use a flashling and u can see the cable and how it attaches. remove it from inside the can, and then unscrew the cable assembly from the can. make SURE to plug the hole with a bolt and locking nut (you can reuse the nut from the stock cable assembly)
 

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so once you remove the cable from the servo motor, can you remove the cable from the exhaust/muffler itself?
(short of cutting it)


i'd assume the other end of the cable is attached somehow to the flapper, inside the exhaust/muffler.
so i'd figure just removing the locking nut on it, and twisting the cable housing out; wouldnt work, as the cable would still be connected internally.... (?)

help?


EDIT: ok screwed around with it a bit. you gotta disconnect the cable inside the muffler. use a pair of long sissor type vice grips, or some other tool that can reach into the muffler outlet where the flapper is. use a flashling and u can see the cable and how it attaches. remove it from inside the can, and then unscrew the cable assembly from the can. make SURE to plug the hole with a bolt and locking nut (you can reuse the nut from the stock cable assembly)
Corky, most riders just disconnect the cable from the servomotor pulley and leave the upper end tucked in the battery tray beside the motor. The other end remains on the flapper valve in the muffler; since there is no tension on the cable the valve remains open.
 

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I'm an electrical dummy... can I just snip off the two connectors close to the wiring harness and just tape the loose ends up? If so, do I need to worry about separating the cut ends when taping it up?
Need you say more about your stupidity? look in the mirror & what will you see; no, not the troll / L. O. L. WHAT A FOOL. you have a VIRUS anus licker go take more meds
its ok to tell us about your VIRUS
 
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