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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Seems like it should have been the easiest of all my mods yet proving to be a right pain in the ass.
The stock bike has LED indicators which I bought a tail tidy to use. I decided to get some smaller less bug eyed LED indicators to replace them. The kit I bought is listed for a 08-16 blade and came with resistors to convert from Bulb to LED. If i directly plug in without the resistors my indicators blink too fast however the hazards blink at the correct pace. If I use the inline resistor nothing happens (no surprise as its meant to down wattage bulb to led). So in order to correct the fast blinking I bought the R&G resistors meant to correct the blink pace on LED to LED indicator swaps. To my shock these also don't work as with them inline nothing happens at all.

Has anyone had success with aftermarket indicators on their SC77? Any suggestions?
 

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If i directly plug in without the resistors my indicators blink too fast however the hazards blink at the correct pace.
Yup, looks like new LEDs draw less current than factory lights, so relay flashes too fast.
If I use the inline resistor nothing happens (no surprise as its meant to down wattage bulb to led). So in order to correct the fast blinking I bought the R&G resistors meant to correct the blink pace on LED to LED indicator swaps. To my shock these also don't work as with them inline nothing happens at all.
Resistors are meant to be wired in parallel to increase power consumption to trick relay into working like original lights were installed. LEDs consume about 2-watts and incandescent bulbs about 20-watts. So resistor in parallel consumes additional 18-watts for 20-watts total. It basically operates like invisible bulb that converts power to heat without putting out any light.

Here's difference between wiring resistors inline/series vs. parallel::

With inline/series connection, total resistance of circuit increases and less current flows, and less power is consumed. That's why your light doesn't turn on at all, resistor blocked power that should've gone to light.

With parallel wiring, resistor forms 2nd independent circuit that doesn't interfere with original light at all. It lowers total resistance of circuit and consumes additional power: That's also why flasher works properly in hazard mode, second set of lights in parallel doubles power consumption.

Here's how to wire up resistors in parallel to increase power-consumption. Make sure you use higher-resistance resistor meant for LED-to-LED conversions.



Basically resistor in parallel circuit connects to both wires of light. Be sure to solder and wrap connections for good conductivity and seal out moisture. Otherwise you'll have to redo this in couple of months when it falls apart or corrodes.

I can post some maths to show how this works if you'd like. Can even calculate exact value of resistor (ohms) needed for any kind of factory light vs. aftermarket replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the detailed reply!

The LED I bought are

The resistors I bought are

However they actually look like in the picture below.

Wheel Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Cable Electronic component


The blue (+) and the green (-) are from the OEM wiring, the Red (+) and the Black (-) are from the new LED indicators, The resistor was yellow and black wires. I have tried a lot of combos to get it to work. Could you please suggest from the photo what you would do?
 

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We'll need to take 3 resistance measurements. LEDs conduct in one direction and block in other direction. So meter will read high/infinite resistance measured one way. Then when test leads are reversed, meter will show lower resistance. In following tests, measure both ways and use lower reading (use 200 ohm range on meter).

1. resistance of original lights
2. reaistance of new lights
3. resistance of resistor across yel & blk terminals on one end

Also cut off shrink-wrap on resistor and spread out wiring. They may have configured it like my final 3rd photo above, but folded it up into Z-shape before wrapping.

From these 3 numbers we can figure out how to reach normal-blink configuration. Might need resistor of difference impedance. Will know for sure once you get those 3 measurements.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the reply.

So i tried to get a reading in Ohms across the bullet connectors. O.L or Zero for all measurements.... Sorry i have no experience with how to do this sort of stuff.
Is the procedure, turn on indicator and then probe the terminals like the picture below?

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Bicycle part
 

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You'll want to unplug lights and connect probes to lights only.

Also do control baseline test initially with probes touching each other only. This verifies meter's working properly with reading of 0.0 ohms. If not zero, remember that number and subtract from any measurements you make.

Then do 2 measurements per light. One with black probe -> black wire & red ~> red. Then do another with black probe -> red & red probe -> black. Repeat for other light and resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok I think i got it. I could only get it to show anything with AUTO. When i changed range and flicked through each one I couldnt get anything.

Aftermarket LED.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Electrical wiring Automotive design Gauge


Original LED

Measuring instrument Gadget Electronic device Cable Wire


Both Resistors (ones that came with the kit) and the (R&G ones)

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Vehicle Measuring instrument Gas
 

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Alright, good work! We can use these numbers! Doing some maths, brb...
 

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As quick test, plug both resistors inline with each other on one side, then aftermarket light at very end. Does it flash at proper rate on that side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
As quick test, plug both resistors inline with each other on one side, then aftermarket light at very end. Does it flash at proper rate on that side?
No go on the double resistor, no illumination on the indicator but hyper flash still going on fronts.

With a single resistor plugged in with NO light it is the right pace (using front indicator and dash indication to tell). Then as soon as i add the light on it doesnt illuminate or if i add another resistor it goes to hyper flash.
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Bumper
 

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I think you are doing too much work for the problem. ;) Adding a resistor to draw more current to make the flasher relay flash slow kind of defeats part of the reason for using LED lights, less power used. I converted a vehicle from incandecent to LED and to make the blinkers work properly you have to replace the flasher with an ELECTRONIC Flasher which doesn't care about how much current is pulled through it. You can find them online fairly inexpensive or use a 2017 and up Honda flasher.
Good luck with your project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I think you are doing too much work for the problem. ;) Adding a resistor to draw more current to make the flasher relay flash slow kind of defeats part of the reason for using LED lights, less power used. I converted a vehicle from incandecent to LED and to make the blinkers work properly you have to replace the flasher with an ELECTRONIC Flasher which doesn't care about how much current is pulled through it. You can find them online fairly inexpensive or use a 2017 and up Honda flasher.
Good luck with your project.
Flasher isn't an option the 2017+ uses a 12pin LED flasher stock which is what i currently have.

Edit: TST Flash Rate Control Module | Honda CBR1000RR 2017+ found this but they want 57USD postage!!!!!!!! Thats insane for a small item. Might try a forwarding service.
 

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No go on the double resistor, no illumination on the indicator but hyper flash still going on fronts.

With a single resistor plugged in with NO light it is the right pace (using front indicator and dash indication to tell). Then as soon as i add the light on it doesnt illuminate or if i add another resistor it goes to hyper flash.

View attachment 266864
This literally takes 5-minutes with plugging things in just right. Let's do this in stages, we'll measure along way:

1. remove light.
2. plug in one resistor to light, black-> black, yellow -> red
3. on other free end of resistor, measure resistance (auto-range, flip-leads to find low-resistance configuration).
4. ohms = ???
 

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Oh wait! I mis-read previous photos.
No go on the double resistor, no illumination on the indicator but hyper flash still going on fronts.

With a single resistor plugged in with NO light it is the right pace (using front indicator and dash indication to tell). Then as soon as i add the light on it doesnt illuminate or if i add another resistor it goes to hyper flash.
Is taillight plugged in during all of this? I mis-read earlier measurements, I found problem:

stock light = 7.37 ohms
aftermarket light = 4.89 ohms
resistor (both) = 15.1 ohms

Aftermarket light has too little resistance! Which is opposite of most common problem when going from incandescent to LED with too much resistance. Then resistors will lower resistance. In this case, already too-low resistance gets worse when adding resistors in parallel circuit.

resistance final = 1/((1/7.37) + (1/15.1)) = 3.69 ohms

With resistor in place (parallel circuit), situation is even worse with even less resistance. In order to raise resistance to stock levels, we'd have to put a 7.37-4.89= 2.48 ohm resistor in series with light (circuit 1 in above diagram). But that will decrease power going to LED and it will be dim or not light at all.

Only solution in this case is to get different LED light with 7.37 ohm resistance similar to stock lights.
(unless taillights have higher-resistance than stock, in which case, their combination might equal 2 stock lights in resistance)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes the tail light was plugged in the entire time. However I measured the resistance independent of the bikes system.

Thanks very much for verifying what I was experiencing with math. As soon as I put any resistance into the circuit there would be no lighting at all on the indicators.

So even with the TST flasher module you don't think that would correct the flash rate if I run them without resistors? (flashing too fast)

As a test I placed the indicators directly to the battery terminal connections and they blinked perfectly meaning they want 12v direct. The OEM lights have written on them 7.2V 2.8W 0.4W.
 

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As a test I placed the indicators directly to the battery terminal connections and they blinked perfectly meaning they want 12v direct.
That's interesting, the indicators have their own electronic flasher built in. So, it will require some rewiring to bypass the bikes flasher. Time to go back to the wiring diagram and look for the how of that. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That's interesting, the indicators have their own electronic flasher built in. So, it will require some rewiring to bypass the bikes flasher. Time to go back to the wiring diagram and look for the how of that. Good luck.
Unfortunately not worth the hassle. I managed to find a local distributor for TST locally and ordered that specific 2017+ CBR flasher module, 2 weeks wait. Will report back if it works with these aftermarket indicators. If not I can buy the TST Indicators. I know they work with the flasher unit.

Video should start at the correct time stamp.

 

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If the current indicators only work with direct 12v then I don't think switching to the '17 flasher will help. I had indicators like the TST ones on my 86 VFR750, took the big bulky ones off, used an electronic flash and worked will. And they do look good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If the current indicators only work with direct 12v then I don't think switching to the '17 flasher will help. I had indicators like the TST ones on my 86 VFR750, took the big bulky ones off, used an electronic flash and worked will. And they do look good.
If they don't work I can refund them (lifetime satisfaction guarantee on the ones i bought) and buy the TST ones which as per the video will work. I will try the module on these aftermarket ones first for science.
 
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