[DannoXYZ]

If i directly plug in without the resistors my indicators blink too fast however the hazards blink at the correct pace.

Yup, looks like new LEDs draw less current than factory lights, so relay flashes too fast.

If I use the inline resistor nothing happens (no surprise as its meant to down wattage bulb to led). So in order to correct the fast blinking I bought the R&G resistors meant to correct the blink pace on LED to LED indicator swaps. To my shock these also don't work as with them inline nothing happens at all.

Resistors are meant to be wired in parallel to increase power consumption to trick relay into working like original lights were installed. LEDs consume about 2-watts and incandescent bulbs about 20-watts. So resistor in parallel consumes additional 18-watts for 20-watts total. It basically operates like invisible bulb that converts power to heat without putting out any light.

Here's difference between wiring resistors inline/series vs. parallel::

With inline/series connection, total resistance of circuit increases and less current flows, and less power is consumed. That's why your light doesn't turn on at all, resistor blocked power that should've gone to light.

With parallel wiring, resistor forms 2nd independent circuit that doesn't interfere with original light at all. It lowers total resistance of circuit and consumes additional power: That's also why flasher works properly in hazard mode, second set of lights in parallel doubles power consumption.

Here's how to wire up resistors in parallel to increase power-consumption. Make sure you use higher-resistance resistor meant for LED-to-LED conversions.

Basically resistor in parallel circuit connects to both wires of light. Be sure to solder and wrap connections for good conductivity and seal out moisture. Otherwise you'll have to redo this in couple of months when it falls apart or corrodes.

I can post some maths to show how this works if you'd like. Can even calculate exact value of resistor (ohms) needed for any kind of factory light vs. aftermarket replacement.

 

[DannoXYZ]

We'll need to take 3 resistance measurements. LEDs conduct in one direction and block in other direction. So meter will read high/infinite resistance measured one way. Then when test leads are reversed, meter will show lower resistance. In following tests, measure both ways and use lower reading (use 200 ohm range on meter).

1. resistance of original lights
2. reaistance of new lights
3. resistance of resistor across yel & blk terminals on one end

Also cut off shrink-wrap on resistor and spread out wiring. They may have configured it like my final 3rd photo above, but folded it up into Z-shape before wrapping.

From these 3 numbers we can figure out how to reach normal-blink configuration. Might need resistor of difference impedance. Will know for sure once you get those 3 measurements.

 

[DannoXYZ]

You'll want to unplug lights and connect probes to lights only.

Also do control baseline test initially with probes touching each other only. This verifies meter's working properly with reading of 0.0 ohms. If not zero, remember that number and subtract from any measurements you make.

Then do 2 measurements per light. One with black probe -> black wire & red ~> red. Then do another with black probe -> red & red probe -> black. Repeat for other light and resistor.

 

[DannoXYZ]

Alright, good work! We can use these numbers! Doing some maths, brb...

 

[DannoXYZ]

As quick test, plug both resistors inline with each other on one side, then aftermarket light at very end. Does it flash at proper rate on that side?

 

[DannoXYZ]

No go on the double resistor, no illumination on the indicator but hyper flash still going on fronts.

With a single resistor plugged in with NO light it is the right pace (using front indicator and dash indication to tell). Then as soon as i add the light on it doesnt illuminate or if i add another resistor it goes to hyper flash.

View attachment 266864

This literally takes 5-minutes with plugging things in just right. Let's do this in stages, we'll measure along way:

1. remove light.
2. plug in one resistor to light, black-> black, yellow -> red
3. on other free end of resistor, measure resistance (auto-range, flip-leads to find low-resistance configuration).
4. ohms = ???

 

[DannoXYZ]

Oh wait! I mis-read previous photos.

No go on the double resistor, no illumination on the indicator but hyper flash still going on fronts.

With a single resistor plugged in with NO light it is the right pace (using front indicator and dash indication to tell). Then as soon as i add the light on it doesnt illuminate or if i add another resistor it goes to hyper flash.

Is taillight plugged in during all of this? I mis-read earlier measurements, I found problem:

stock light = 7.37 ohms
aftermarket light = 4.89 ohms
resistor (both) = 15.1 ohms

Aftermarket light has too little resistance! Which is opposite of most common problem when going from incandescent to LED with too much resistance. Then resistors will lower resistance. In this case, already too-low resistance gets worse when adding resistors in parallel circuit.

resistance final = 1/((1/7.37) + (1/15.1)) = 3.69 ohms

With resistor in place (parallel circuit), situation is even worse with even less resistance. In order to raise resistance to stock levels, we'd have to put a 7.37-4.89= 2.48 ohm resistor in series with light (circuit 1 in above diagram). But that will decrease power going to LED and it will be dim or not light at all.

Only solution in this case is to get different LED light with 7.37 ohm resistance similar to stock lights.
(unless taillights have higher-resistance than stock, in which case, their combination might equal 2 stock lights in resistance)

 

[DannoXYZ]

awesome!