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I just did a search on their site and the only thing that came up was rotor for 19 SP
You referring to core moto?

If so just go to their homepage, scroll down to custom lines, and choose what you need.

I'm sure it will be more expensive than a pre made kit and somewhat of a hassle to measure the current lines and choose the correct fitting angles but it's an option
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
You referring to core moto?

If so just go to their homepage, scroll down to custom lines, and choose what you need.

I'm sure it will be more expensive than a pre made kit and somewhat of a hassle to measure the current lines and choose the correct fitting angles but it's an option
Thanks and a great idea. Ill likely go with the Galfers then since they have a ready made kit that I am too dumb to find on my own. I am partial to those banjos to say the least but Id like to wrap her up for the season and switch over to sled mode soon.
 

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I just ordered Hel brakelines from the UK, was like $240 shipped to the USA (yes you can get redlines even)..... I asked coremoto since they are my go to source for brakelines, offered to send my stockers in even, but got the "no we need the bike". I personally cannot stand any brakeline that runs from one caliper to the other (cross-over) so i skipped on doing galfer.

Honda CBR1000RR Fireblade SP ABS (2017-2019) Flexible OEM Replacement Braided Brake Lines
Line Options 6 Lines - Front and Rear
Line Colour Carbon Fibre Look
Notes
HBF2039​
1​
$213.47​
 

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Which Brembo MC is appropriate for the Base bike with ABS?

Which mod helps more with brake fade/overheating? Steel lines or a new MC? Or both?! Different pads?
Brake fade occurs at the level of the caliper/pads. I would upgrade the pads, then lines, then calipers, then MC. New MC will help with feel, but it's so far away from anything that gets hot it won't help with fade if your pads are sub-par.
 

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Which Brembo MC is appropriate for the Base bike with ABS?

Which mod helps more with brake fade/overheating? Steel lines or a new MC? Or both?! Different pads?
upgraded brake pads and making sure your fluid is new stock and fresh will improve/eliminate brake fade.

Braided steel lines and MC improve feel or feedback

Upgraded calipers will increase stopping power
 

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If you don't want to go the route of a race caliper upgrade, you can replace the pistons on the SP with titanium. Titanium is a very poor heat conductor compared to aluminum pistons that come with it so that will help with brake fade as well. For 8 pistons it's about $300 vs. a set of race calipers that are $4000 with pads and custom spacers machined.
 

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I cannot say this enough about the M4 brembo calipers, they really are good calipers, but they lack some feel that the newer M50 & especially the stylema have to offer.. But they are better than anything that has come on any cbr before it, or yamaha, or suzuki (kawi at least has the M50 on their top tier bikes). I do not think the thinner rotors on the CBR are doing it any favors either, and not quite sure which pads are on the M4's, guess i should pull them and find out. Will let you know how my Hel brakelines & brembo 19 RCS corsa corta feel once the lines show up, and already looking for rotor options, most likely brembo of some type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
So how hard is bleeding the abs lines, I have a compressor powered bleeder thing but see those can pull in air and bubble at the bleeder? Ill use search and look for threads on bleeding but any tips are appreciated. Thread tape vs. purpose built bleeder sealer stuff for instance.
Also any input on picking up a Brembo rear caliper right away? I mean why not while I'm changing master and lines right away. I too often hit a bad(sand or horse poop, potholes, etc) corner and have to straight line brake and use the rear to get things reeled in.
 

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So how hard is bleeding the abs lines, I have a compressor powered bleeder thing but see those can pull in air and bubble at the bleeder? Ill use search and look for threads on bleeding but any tips are appreciated. Thread tape vs. purpose built bleeder sealer stuff for instance.
Also any input on picking up a Brembo rear caliper right away? I mean why not while I'm changing master and lines right away. I too often hit a bad(sand or horse poop, potholes, etc) corner and have to straight line brake and use the rear to get things reeled in.
On the 2017-2019, it bleeds like normal. On 2008-2016, 26 page service manual instructions on tapping levers and bleeding from specific ports in the valve/power/caliper.

The compressor powered bleeder or any vacuum bleeder for that matter does pull air, but it's air that's from outside the braking system leaking into the threads of the bleed valve. You will see air bubbles, but this is NOT introducing air into the system. You can put thread tape or a white Teflon paste to seal the threads, but this only serves to prevent brake fluid from seeping out of the threads if you are bleeding brakes the old fashioned way.

My advice is to use the vacuum bleeding tool to suck until the liquid comes out at the bleeder, then WITH THE VACUUM STILL ON, bleed brakes the conventional way (compress lever, open nipple, close nipple, release lever etc.) The conventional procedure is necessary because when you compress the system, the air bubbles get smaller and are easier to get out. The vacuum helps prevent leak of brake fluid around the threads and leave the vacuum bleeder on for 15 seconds or so before removing it to suck any residual brake fluid out from inside the hole in the bleeder bolt.

I prefer to use lever feel over watching for air bubbles coming out to know when I'm done, because air bubbles can get trapped in tiny crevices and even in the Brembo manual it says bleeding does not remove all the air and that riding the bike will let the rest of the air bubbles rise as the wheels are bouncing around. A quick follow up bleed after a ride can be done to further improve lever feel if needed.

If you are doing a full caliper rebuild, you must start with all pistons pushed in or it will take literally forever to get all the air out.

Here is my setup that I use for bleeding the brakes on my original 09 ABS bike and also my current Brembo race calipers. I strongly suggest a catch tank in the middle or else the vacuum bleeder may spray out brake fluid and cause a huge mess. Also I spent $12 to get a dedicated 11mm bleeder wrench to fit the Brembo calipers that have the bleed bolt coming out at an odd angle. I rebuild/bleed quite often and I find this setup to be the most efficient way to get a solid lever ASAP with minimal fluid/mess/effort.

Don't forget to torque 5 ft-lb all bleed bolts.

260680
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
How can I torque the bleeders? I mean just go back through after bleeding with a torque wrench and check them after bleeding? This is awsome that I know ahead of time Ill need an 11mm, what angle on the wrench or what is it called? Is it just and 11mm bleeder wrench? Funny I have a brand new 10mm one for the 2015 still in the pack.
 

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How can I torque the bleeders? I mean just go back through after bleeding with a torque wrench and check them after bleeding? This is awsome that I know ahead of time Ill need an 11mm, what angle on the wrench or what is it called? Is it just and 11mm bleeder wrench? Funny I have a brand new 10mm one for the 2015 still in the pack.
Yeah, you go back with a torque wrench and get to 5 ft lbs. Do all of them at once after you finish bleeding.

I should clarify that 11mm is for all aftermarket Brembo. OE calipers are 8mm so get that size for OE calipers.


The Motion Pro one is short cheap aluminum and hard to use so I suggest you avoid that one. The one I linked is steel and very well built it has a rubber seal inside so no leak no mess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Thanks again for the input. I thought about using the small fluid catch part too, glad to know I'm not a complete moron. I watched the stg video from the guy with the coolest shop shirts and see you weren't kidding when you said its the same.
 

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The SP stock calipers are not M50 on the 1krr. M50 are 4x30mm and the SP comes with M4 calipers that are 4x34mm. For the M50 I agree you need 17mm and 19mm MC would feel wooden.
I cannot say this enough about the M4 brembo calipers, they really are good calipers, but they lack some feel that the newer M50 & especially the stylema have to offer.. But they are better than anything that has come on any cbr before it, or yamaha, or suzuki (kawi at least has the M50 on their top tier bikes). I do not think the thinner rotors on the CBR are doing it any favors either, and not quite sure which pads are on the M4's, guess i should pull them and find out. Will let you know how my Hel brakelines & brembo 19 RCS corsa corta feel once the lines show up, and already looking for rotor options, most likely brembo of some type.
My current bike is a Triumph 765 RS that has the Brembo M50 with the Brembo (excuse me if I get this wrong) MC that has 17,19,20. Not sure if this is an increasing Master cylinder piston size or a pivot ratio. I am looking at upgrading to a 17-19 Honda cbr1000 rr SP1 that It seems has the same Brembo M50 calipers. I go through stock brembo pads in 10k KM just being ridden in canyons on the Triumph. When I upgrade to the SP1 with more weight and HP I fear with the same brake setup I will be underwhelmed. Overheating the fluid has not been a concern of mine yet as I run high temp Brake fluid and the pads are not crumbling or indicating overheating. What would be the next step up in brake performance to get more stopping power out of the 17-19 SP1? I already run the Master cylinder on the Triumph set at 20 as it takes less effort to get the power I'm looking for though losing a bit of feel over 19. The ideal way is to buy a 2020 S1 with the Styleema but those are more than twice as expensive here in Thailand.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Team FTB
Welcome, and as you know most Triumphs have very good brake set ups on them from the get go (superior to the SP 1 in everyway)
On the Sp 1, to start there is not much weight difference between the bikes. as for calipers it has a semi M4 caliper.. think 2011 675R, but instead of it having the (4) 34mm pistons like it should, these have a (2) 32mm (2) 34 piston in them, and they are paired with rubber lines and not so great brake master. The system can be better, but you need to bypass the abs, and do stainless lines at a minimum. Not sure why but like many people no matter what they do the lever never feels rock solid if the ABS is in the loop. I have talked to quite a few now, and done plenty of modding with mine, only thing left to try is pulling the fuse before i bypass the ABS.

The caliper can work fine
a Brembo 19x18/20 RCS will be better than what is on it
Stainless lines..
this will be somewhat close to what your used to with the triumph.
 
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