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Discussion Starter #1
How would I go about disabling/removing the abs brakes? I would like to use an brembo master cylinder and run direct lines.
 

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There are 2 ways to disable the ABS on the SC77, pull the ABS pump fuse and then cap the lines and pull them if you want.

But you will need to keep the ABS module attached to the harness as the Wheel Speeds sensors that are used by the rest of the system pas their signal through the ABS logic board.

Either way you will always have an ABS system failure warning light on the dash but you can just ignore that.

Also might be easier to have just 1 thread going with the same issue.

What is the DTC code that is displayed when the light is on?
 

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No, there is no way to by way to disable the ABS and not get the ABS failure warning light.

And DTC code 51 is related to the Honda Electronic Steering Damper.

What all did you unplug? What fuses have you removed?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I pulled each abs fuse, but I plugged them back in when the bike wouldn't start or the main dash would light up like a xmas tree. I removed the top triple tree clamp but installed it the same way.
 

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Check the HESD plug.

Understand that the bike must first do an actual roll-out to complete systems check between errors and fault codes. You cant just pull fuses and then start and pull more etc. You need to use a very systematic approach the same way you would with a car that has a very sophisticated sensor array based command and control system.

Make one change. Start the bike, ride it at least 50 feet and allow the system to check and either clear any codes or maintain or post new ones.
Then replace the part/fuse you took out and again start and ride the bike to allow it to resolve the previous failure.

Yes its tedious, but it is also a complex system that is designed to work as a complete system with a number of built in checks and verification' -so you need to cater to the bikes system..
 

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At this stage just plug everything back in. Start the bike and ride it for 50ft in a straight line so all the basic roll-out checks can pass, the come back and remove the main ABS fuse and you should be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok so I feel like I should update the community on what's going on since I take so much I should contribute. I put the wheel on without the caliper holder in the slot. I know it's a stupid thing to do and I should know better after 100s of tire changes, anyway it wasn't in there right. So that was probably tripping the abs sensors. I noticed when the sensor was too close to the pulsar ring. I put it back together the correct way and went for a ride it started up easy. I took my son around the block in the neighborhood and everything felt normal. No codes were showing. I kill the engine took off the rear pegs and prepared to go for a ride. Went to start the bike and the battery was dead. So I pushed started it down my driveway determined to go for a ride and it started. I road it a half mile down the street and the abs light starts flashing again. I already know what happens next the so I turn around the the dash goes dark abs keeps flashing and moments later the bike dies. I had all ready punched it in anticipation of this and was able to coast a good way back home. I try to start the bike and the battery is acting dead. I just got a shorai battery and am keeping it charged but I'm not going to install it until I replace both front and rear pulsar rings and rear speed sensor. I ordered another front ring because my front set of tires currently share one pulsar ring. I'll report back when I change the sensor and rings.

I can give you a bunch of excuses like my daughter said it was in there or it was dark and I was tired but at the end of the day I did this. I hope I can fix it.
258293
 

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Glad you found the what may be the original source for the sequence of issues. Happens to us all (y).. You may see some of the other phantom issues simply vanish with the new battery.
These are really sensitive to voltage drop so good call on putting a healthy fully charged battery in place before your next batch of tests.

As for the sensor ring, as long as its not out of plane you should be ok. The sensors themselves are pretty robust but if you suspect the magnet is cracked best bet to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The plot thickens...

After reading several forums and talking with some friends I decided to pursue another avenue of investigation. I decided to pursue the possibility that I could possibly have a grounding issue. I removed the gas tank today and checked all ground connections. They were all tight. However with the battery out and the tank put aside I noticed these 3 yellow wires under the battery that appeared to go nowhere. After consulting with my service book I realized where they were supposed to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm guessing my fiberglass race fairings squished the yellow electical lines together and fried my regulator/rectifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thank you RC45 for all your thoughtful responses. I really appreciate that you took the time to answer my questions and try to help out with my dilemma. I've been trying to pay it forward. Any way the rectifier shorted and fried and I replaced it today and road for 4 hours all day today. It's been the best day in quarantine I've had. I can't wait to ride tomorrow!!
 
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