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Installed the OEM Quick Shifter (QS) on my base 17. I have it set up for upshifting and downshifting. The Up level set at 1 and Down level set at 1. Upshifting is fine and feels smooth but I find the downshift feels clunky - rpms are over the minimum requirement. I am using the QS for street riding.

When I downshift - I close off the throttle and then downshift. As I downshift, it feels 'clunky' when shifting between gears. The clunkiness is hard to explain.

I have not used a QS before. Either the setting for the QS is incorrectly set up or my technique using the QS for downshifting not correct? I am hoping it is the latter. If it is the latter then what is the correct method to smooth downshifts using the QS?
The downshift assist is a true autoblipper, is the bike blipping the throttle?
Are your sprockets and rear tire still stock?
 

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I am not hearing the small rise in rpm or blip (like I would if I was using the clutch manually to downshift). When I change down using the QS, it feels like a small clunk to change to a lower gear. This is hard to explain.

The sprockets are standard - 16T and 43T. Rear tyre is standard 190/50ZR-17.
 

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I am not hearing the small rise in rpm or blip (like I would if I was using the clutch manually to downshift). When I change down using the QS, it feels like a small clunk to change to a lower gear. This is hard to explain.

The sprockets are standard - 16T and 43T. Rear tyre is standard 190/50ZR-17.
After using mine now I think i agree with you on this - 18 base just installed OEM and up is very good.

shifting down, it is smooth but really doesn't "blip" like i would expect. i wouldn't say it "clunks" depending on pressure and sensitivity level setting it is smooth, and the RPM's rise slightly, but not a blip.
 

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After reading the below post I am "GUESSING" at least for me, the blipper is not working since i have BST wheels and/or aftermarket but stock size rear sprocket?

https://www.1000rr.net/forums/1000rr-mods-upgrades/251331-17-sp2-auto-blipper-not-working-please-help-5.html


makes me wonder how well TC is functioning if it is that sensitive?

can anything be done to make it work other than going back to stock wheels?

base 2018
I have BST wheels on my SP and have no issues with my quickshifter (actually got even better/smoother once the wheels were changed). Granted, I also have the factory pro shift kit and Woolich Racing’s Race Tools so I can fine tune my QS settings. When are you generally trying to downshift (RPM range)? Have you tried adjusting the QS settings within the menu pages to see if it makes any difference?
 

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I have BST wheels on my SP and have no issues with my quickshifter (actually got even better/smoother once the wheels were changed). Granted, I also have the factory pro shift kit and Woolich Racing’s Race Tools so I can fine tune my QS settings. When are you generally trying to downshift (RPM range)? Have you tried adjusting the QS settings within the menu pages to see if it makes any difference?
From online motorcycle reviews I have read to posts on this forum, auto blip works for the SP and SP2 models as the QS is a standard fitment. It makes me think if the QS is 'supposed' to auto blip when downshifting on a base 2017+ CBR1000RR.

I have tried all 3 levels for the Down levels but no auto blipping. I find that downshifting with the QS is smoother over 3,000rpm but there is no auto blipping. Is there something in the settings on the SP/SP2 that is different for the base model?

If anyone has been able to get the QS to downshift auto-blip to work with a base 2017+ CBR1000RR, I would love to know what settings/changes are done to achieve this.
 

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From online motorcycle reviews I have read to posts on this forum, auto blip works for the SP and SP2 models as the QS is a standard fitment. It makes me think if the QS is 'supposed' to auto blip when downshifting on a base 2017+ CBR1000RR.

I have tried all 3 levels for the Down levels but no auto blipping. I find that downshifting with the QS is smoother over 3,000rpm but there is no auto blipping. Is there something in the settings on the SP/SP2 that is different for the base model?

If anyone has been able to get the QS to downshift auto-blip to work with a base 2017+ CBR1000RR, I would love to know what settings/changes are done to achieve this.
It is a rev matching system with a slipper clutch so outside of aggressive track work you may just see revs matched and no need to over rev as an audible blip like an old 2 stroke GP rider.
Its more of a utility feature than an attention getter like the rev matching on the C7 stick shift Vettes.
 

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Thanks for the replies above. i have tried all sensitivity levels in the settings and have tried it throughout the rev range. downshifts are smooth, clearly and obviously much smoother than with downshift disabled and doing clutchless downshifts, and the rev's increase slightly as you would expect.

Just less of of rev than maybe you would do manually and as a result, less of an audible blip.
 

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Thanks for the replies above. i have tried all sensitivity levels in the settings and have tried it throughout the rev range. downshifts are smooth, clearly and obviously much smoother than with downshift disabled and doing clutchless downshifts, and the rev's increase slightly as you would expect.

Just less of of rev than maybe you would do manually and as a result, less of an audible blip.
Because manually you are guesstimating and applying more fuel than needed to bring the revs up and then catch them on the drop off to match and sync the engine speed to the new gear selected, while the QS system is trying to match the revs of the engine to the new selected shorter gear as precisely as possible.
 

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I also ordered the QS as an option with the bike.... and currently I dropped the bike off again yesterday for a second attempt.. because the dealer said the 1st one would not initialize. For gods sake, this is a brand new bike and a factory part. They ordered a new QS, and will know today. But, I do have the feeling they are idiots, to put it mildly.

Going on a rand here, but the only issues I have had are with my 2 Japanese bikes, LOL. Yeah, unbelievable, I know... my triumphs and my old BMW no issues, ever, and the Triumph/BMW dealer at least employs people who love bikes and know how to work on them, should you need them. The 2 Japanese dealers around me are a joke when it comes to service, and the one I bought the blade from, a joke overall. If it was not for the price, I would NEVER HAD BOUGHT a screw from them. /rant over

Anyway, I highly doubt the 1st QS was defective. And if the 2nd one does not initialize, I am not accepting a brand new bike is “defective” because that would be the only explanation. If anyone has any input, I would appreciate it.
 

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Is your bike brand new zero miles totally stock (rear sets, sprockets, rear tire) or are you goign back after having lived with the bike for a year or 2?

I only ask because your signature shows 2017 CBR.

But as for the QS install, it is not rocket surgery but it is quite specific and there is an exact procedure that needs to be followed.

It is possible these guys are not doing it right.
 

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Is your bike brand new zero miles totally stock (rear sets, sprockets, rear tire) or are you goign back after having lived with the bike for a year or 2?

I only ask because your signature shows 2017 CBR.

But as for the QS install, it is not rocket surgery but it is quite specific and there is an exact procedure that needs to be followed.

It is possible these guys are not doing it right.
Brand new, 170mi as of now. The only thing it has is a Shorai LiFe battery. There should be no reason for it to be the cause. The process is self explanatory to me, but I have lost faith to dealers, of any kind, for service.

Surprise, surprise! Still initialization failing. It starts but says failed. SMH
 

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Read and laugh, or weep, or marvel at the idiocy....

So, after, again, I had to call for an update yesterday, as if I have nothing better to do than wait on hold, and being told the SECOND QS is also failing to initialize, I showed up in person. I had read the instructions, as stated NOT ROCKET SIENCE, and I was ready to bet money I freaking knew what they were doing wrong. I had to beg and ask to see my bike in person, and I played nice managing not to lose my patience (completely) so they would not, NOT RIGHTLY SO, tell me no. The tech called Honda with me there, the case tech was out, the person on the phone was familiar with the case, but no resolution.

They finally let me see the bike, after the BS about liability in the shop, etc. I even asked them, roll the bike outside the shop. On my way there, I was talking to the tech - he was not the one who worked on my bike per say, but him and another tried the initialization process. My suspicions were confirmed what they were doing wrong....

Can you guess?

.........................

When I asked the tech IF AFTER THE “INITIALIZATION IN PROCESS” message and while it being displayed, they had started the bike, like the [£[¥]£{€[£\ instructions I freaking downloaded from Honda stated, he said “no, that’s not how you do it. You don’t start the bike.” So the ....... were waiting on the message, that eventually timed out. So, I go through the process, I get the INIT screen, I START the bike. And god damn [email protected]*#*#&#&, f#&$ me sideways if the “Initialization success” did not show in 2 seconds.

I went inside, finally relieved, but I wanted the service manager and management to know. And my words were exactly these: “since you are all here, I wanna tell you something that might help down the road. Sometimes is good listening to other people.” The ass of a general manager, an ass indeed from previous experiences with an attitude, a temper and a mood, walks out before I even finished what I was saying, the moment I said “I wanna tell you something.” WOW

LONG STORY SHORT. I already have a scalding review on Google about HALLS MOTORPORTS NEW ORLEANS, for a past experience. There is a new ripping a new asshole review coming, in addition to feedback to HONDA when they contact me on the case I have opened.

The good news, besides the QS now working.... The QS is awesome. Smooth as butter, believe it or not a little better on the up shift than the 2018 ZX10R SE I rode for 2.5 weeks. And overall it was a good day, since, first of all I was off, and since time was due for a new MAC since mine is a 2012 iMac and apps I want to use are asking for the 10.15 iOS, I also got the new MacBook Pro 16” inch today:grin2:
 

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Read and laugh, or weep, or marvel at the idiocy....

So, after, again, I had to call for an update yesterday, as if I have nothing better to do than wait on hold, and being told the SECOND QS is also failing to initialize, I showed up in person. I had read the instructions, as stated NOT ROCKET SIENCE, and I was ready to bet money I freaking knew what they were doing wrong. I had to beg and ask to see my bike in person, and I played nice managing not to lose my patience (completely) so they would not, NOT RIGHTLY SO, tell me no. The tech called Honda with me there, the case tech was out, the person on the phone was familiar with the case, but no resolution.

They finally let me see the bike, after the BS about liability in the shop, etc. I even asked them, roll the bike outside the shop. On my way there, I was talking to the tech - he was not the one who worked on my bike per say, but him and another tried the initialization process. My suspicions were confirmed what they were doing wrong....

Can you guess?

.........................

When I asked the tech IF AFTER THE “INITIALIZATION IN PROCESS” message and while it being displayed, they had started the bike, like the [£[¥]£{€[£\ instructions I freaking downloaded from Honda stated, he said “no, that’s not how you do it. You don’t start the bike.” So the ....... were waiting on the message, that eventually timed out. So, I go through the process, I get the INIT screen, I START the bike. And god damn [email protected]*#*#&#&, f#&$ me sideways if the “Initialization success” did not show in 2 seconds.

I went inside, finally relieved, but I wanted the service manager and management to know. And my words were exactly these: “since you are all here, I wanna tell you something that might help down the road. Sometimes is good listening to other people.” The ass of a general manager, an ass indeed from previous experiences with an attitude, a temper and a mood, walks out before I even finished what I was saying, the moment I said “I wanna tell you something.” WOW

LONG STORY SHORT. I already have a scalding review on Google about HALLS MOTORPORTS NEW ORLEANS, for a past experience. There is a new ripping a new asshole review coming, in addition to feedback to HONDA when they contact me on the case I have opened.

The good news, besides the QS now working.... The QS is awesome. Smooth as butter, believe it or not a little better on the up shift than the 2018 ZX10R SE I rode for 2.5 weeks. And overall it was a good day, since, first of all I was off, and since time was due for a new MAC since mine is a 2012 iMac and apps I want to use are asking for the 10.15 iOS, I also got the new MacBook Pro 16” inch today:grin2:
Glad you sorted this out in the end. They obviously did not follow the instructions to the letter. The instruction clearly says 'Start the engine and let it idle'.

When I asked about the QS option from my Honda dealer and they said 'we have to work out to install this'. This rang alarm bells and I did not order the QS from them. That day I downloaded the QS installation instructions and read it over and over and over. The process was easy to follow.

So I bought the QS from Partzilla and spent about an hour installing the QS myself. Initialization worked with no issues the first time round.
 

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Glad you sorted this out in the end. They obviously did not follow the instructions to the letter. The instruction clearly says 'Start the engine and let it idle'.

When I asked about the QS option from my Honda dealer and they said 'we have to work out to install this'. This rang alarm bells and I did not order the QS from them. That day I downloaded the QS installation instructions and read it over and over and over. The process was easy to follow.

So I bought the QS from Partzilla and spent about an hour installing the QS myself. Initialization worked with no issues the first time round.
They told me the same thing, when I brought the bike in to install it. Actually the words were “we don’t know how long it will take, you never know”....:serious:
Which leads me to believe, I was not the only one they had issues with, contrary to their words, “but it worked fine on another CBR, I did it myself....”

The only reason I had them do it since I could have done it easily, is that pretty much I ordered it with the bike, and they cut off 100 bucks on the QS, and charged 100 for the install, so, technicaly, labor was free. At the time, I thought 100 bucks was worth my time, only to waste it with the aggravation and multiple visits and calls.
 

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They told me the same thing, when I brought the bike in to install it. Actually the words were “we don’t know how long it will take, you never know”....:serious:
Which leads me to believe, I was not the only one they had issues with, contrary to their words, “but it worked fine on another CBR, I did it myself....”

The only reason I had them do it since I could have done it easily, is that pretty much I ordered it with the bike, and they cut off 100 bucks on the QS, and charged 100 for the install, so, technicaly, labor was free. At the time, I thought 100 bucks was worth my time, only to waste it with the aggravation and multiple visits and calls.
Now you can understand my frustration - I pre-ordered the SP2 the day of the announcement and spent the next 18 months in weekly with Ten Kate Honda as I assembled all the pieces and gathered all the info in parallel as they built and raced the WSBK Redbull Hondas.

Imagine my surprise as I found out that Ten Kate (and myself) knew and understood more about the SC77 than Honda Powersports USA does. They have no understanding of the systems, the features or the capabilities.

You saw what happened when they got behind the Broasters Chicken Racing program - the help Honda Powersports provided literally undermined the entire program.

This is why as great as the SC82 is going to be, I have ZERO faith in Honda America even understanding a single feature of the bike, let alone getting behind it.

We will be on our own
 

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Has there been any new information / solutions for this issue?

I have a 2017 1000RR and then had the factory QS installed by the dealer. I'm getting the exact same issues as a few other people on this thread.
Sometimes the upshifts are extremely crisp. Then every once in a while when going 3-4 or 4-5 there will be a mild delay where it seems like the bike is looking for the gear, reduces power, then finds the gear. This is during normal acceleration, and my foot action is smooth and crisp. No backing off throttle either, and no pressure on clutch lever whatsoever. Sometimes the gauge cluster even shows a "-" while it searches for a gear in the gear position indicator.

I also had an occurrence where I was going 1-2 and instead of hitting second, it went into N and then back into 1 all in a moment. The throttle was open and the shift was quick and firm, so I don't think a lazy shift was the culprit. Not expecting that reversal of motion, it almost sent me over the handlebars!

This is all happening above 4k rpm and during brisk acceleration so it really doesn't feel right.
 

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Assuming you are still running the stock sprocket and tire sizes, then the solution is to change your shift habit to meet the criteria for QS to work properly.

You can also try to alter the QS effort level (1,2 or 3) via the dash menus.

The - in the dash display means the QS feature has been momentary disabled because the criteria to permit QS function have not been met at that moment.

Understand the QS function is meant for full throttle up-shifts and the Autoblipper is intended for high hard braking clutchless down shifts.

The QS/Autoblipper features are really not intended for casual street use. You can read similar instructions outlined in the owners manual.
 
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