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Good evening/morning all

I have a question about batteries. I have 2017 cbr1000rr abs. I think my battery needs to be replaced. It has a hard time turning over if I don’t ride for a couple of days. I’ve checked voltage and when sitting it hovers right around 12.4 v. When riding it’s around 14.1 v. I know it still has oem yuasa unit. I’ve even experienced a check engine light (I believe due to this issue) but goes away after 3 starts. Has anyone experienced anything like this before? Also I am considering upgrading to a lithium ion unit. I’ve heard read up on the usuals like WPS, battery tender, Shorau etc but has anyone tried out NOCO lithium ion?
Thanks in advance for any and all input.

crvzycbr
 

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I've had Shorai in the past. It was a tiny and very light battery that worked great but would not start at all in winter without 5-10 minutes of warm-up. Went back to OEM, but just ordered a YTZ10S equivalent Noco lithium battery. If you ride in cold weather lithium is a poor choice, but it's around the same price as OEM so not a bad idea if you live/ride in a warm area.
 

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CBR 1000 RR 2017 ABS SC77
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Good evening/morning all

I have a question about batteries. I have 2017 cbr1000rr abs. I think my battery needs to be replaced. It has a hard time turning over if I don’t ride for a couple of days. I’ve checked voltage and when sitting it hovers right around 12.4 v. When riding it’s around 14.1 v. I know it still has oem yuasa unit. I’ve even experienced a check engine light (I believe due to this issue) but goes away after 3 starts. Has anyone experienced anything like this before? Also I am considering upgrading to a lithium ion unit. I’ve heard read up on the usuals like WPS, battery tender, Shorau etc but has anyone tried out NOCO lithium ion?
Thanks in advance for any and all input.

crvzycbr
You could at how low it drop when trying to start.
My oem battery died after 3 years, I replaced it with Skyrich HJTZ7S-FP Lithium Batterie (a little harder to start when cold but always started in the end)
 

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I found less than 12.5v, it is definitely asking for trouble. fully charged your bat should be ~13v , dropping to 12.8 after a couple of days (depending on the bike's parasitic drain).
What you see is normally the bat having lost some of it's storage capacity and caanot turn the engine fast enough. Does not mean it is shot. Loosing capacity is a normal ageing process.
@ 14.1v (I expected 14.5 though!), your charging system looks good so get a new battery & use the old one for other things.

Take on board what 09blade said about low temperature & LFP batteries before diving in.
 

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How did a battery issue result in compression loss? Has anyone else experience anything like this?
[/QUO low compression mimic a low battery , hard to start , drag at start up until thing gets warm and expand , it will get gradually get worse , just a heads up on the issue replace the battery if that doesn't fix it check the compression
 

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'18 CBR1000RR SP
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If you are looking for a lithium battery, why not use the one that came with SP's ?
They are 3 times lighter than the regular batteries.
Model = HY93 lithium-ion
 

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I experienced exactly what you describe. Didn't take long for the battery to quit on me while out on a ride one day. Had to bump start it down a hill. Upgraded to Shorai and it's been perfect since. The weight reduction is nice.

Stock Yuasa = 2082g
Shorai = 714g

 

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A Battery Tender (trickle charger) will greatly extend the battery's lifetime, especially if it isn't ridden much. I have one on the bike and sports car, car is coming up on like 7 years for a regular Advance Auto lead-acid battery.
 
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