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Just joined the forum as I've recently purchased a '17 SP, and am curious what would be considered issues that should be addressed. Right after I closed my deal, I found out about the 2017 TT crashes with McGuinness and Martin, which kinda freaked me out a bit. After doing more research, I can't help but wonder if all of the superbike upgrades and modifications may have played a part. I noticed an esteemed and obviously super knowledgeable forum member, I believe RC45, gave a great explanation of how the QS and auto blipper work, shedding light on the fact that alot of these average riders were experiencing false neutrals due to input error.

Let me first just say that I'm a fairly green rider. I purchased my first bike about 6 months ago (an '02 Blackbird), and did my first track weekend about a month ago. It was an eye opening experience, seeing the skill level of advanced, and even intermediate riders at the track, and how far I have yet to go. But it motivated me to take the plunge and buy a more modern, track oriented bike.

I went with the 25th anniversary Blade because it DID win some 2017 sport bike shootouts, it had all of the next gen electronics, and I liked the fact that it was geared towards making a rider feel more comfortable and controlled. That, and I've always been partial to Honda as a brand. I also dug that it had a feel of a lighter, smaller bike, as many have said.

I was watching a Dave Moss video today where he was tuning a guy's '17 SP, and he was saving his suspension settings in the "M2" bank, rather than the "M1" bank, citing "a software issue."

So, after looking through here a bit, and finding plenty of discussion about high end racing upgrades, I figured I'd make a post geared towards the bike's basic factory setup. What are its real known issues? What are things that should absolutely be addressed right out of the gate?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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. . . I figured I'd make a post geared towards the bike's basic factory setup. What are its real known issues? What are things that should absolutely be addressed right out of the gate?
Hi there, and welcome.

I have the 2018 SP2 which I have left as stock standard (as are most of my bikes) and have had no issues whatsoever. No false neutrals, no error codes (save for self inflicted on a missed gear change) and no ABS issues. Honda has made a brilliant bike in its standard form. To qualify, I am a road rider only; my track/race days expired some years ago.

I have learnt from more than one source, that as you say, the TT bikes were not a close relative of the standard bike, so it's fair to say that 'problems' could have been due to incompatibility with aftermarket or alleged specialist parts. Here, @RC45 does have the lowdown on those issues.

So right out of the gate? Nothing to be wary of other than to fit a rad guard. I'd ride it for a while as you decide at what level you want to track the bike. You might even find that its standard form will be more than enough for this season. When it comes to changing tyres and/or gearing, that's wher I'd be hitting the search button and hunting down some relevant threads - if you haven't already done so. All the best with it!!
258274
 

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I found out about the 2017 TT crashes with McGuinness and Martin, which kinda freaked me out a bit. After doing more research, I can't help but wonder if all of the superbike upgrades and modifications may have played a part.
That was exactly the issue. Honda Racing UK tried to install some Magneti Marelli bullshit on the bike which didn't work. I took delivery of a SP in April of 2017. Besides the recall on the fuel cap, I've not had a single issue.
 

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Thanks for the info! That's the first I've heard of that. I wonder if that was a completely different ECU, or something else. I remember seeing that Honda Racing had stated after Mcguinness' crash, that they had to send the ECU all the way to China and wait for the data to be analyzed. Then they concluded that it auto blipped by itself.

That, and Guy Martin's crash, followed with his "box 'o neutrals" comment did some serious damage to those sales numbers, no doubt.

Of all of the motorcycle publications who have done extensive reviews on that model, maybe 10% or less said anything about experiencing a false neutral. Wish I knew if there was even the smallest validity to it, or if it was just a different feel and operation than what most QS users are acquainted with.

Still, curious what Dave Moss was talking about when he cited an "electronics issue" with storing user presets.

But I guess this is what happens when Honda doesn't say anything.
 

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Of all of the motorcycle publications who have done extensive reviews on that model, maybe 10% or less said anything about experiencing a false neutral. Wish I knew if there was even the smallest validity to it, or if it was just a different feel and operation than what most QS users are acquainted with.

Still, curious what Dave Moss was talking about when he cited an "electronics issue" with storing user presets.

But I guess this is what happens when Honda doesn't say anything.
Folks that fuck with the ECU run into problems. Several notable video reviews of the 2020 posted in this forum mentioned that folks that were critical of the 2017-2019 models had never ridden one. I've never had a false neutral. Mine freaking shifts like butter. Now, If I've been out for a long ride without using first gear, then come to a stop and put it in first, sometimes I won't put enough effort into the shifter on the upshift and the bike will be in neutral instead of 2nd, but that's happened with other Hondas I've owned too. It's a longer throw from first to 2nd than upshifts from other gears. Bike's been flawless on downshifts.
 

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That's good to know. It's just impossible to believe that the level of engineering at a company like Honda could put out a gear box that doesn't work. I'm scheduling delivery for mine in about a week, and I'm super excited. I know it's going to be a plush machine. I appreciate all of the input from you guys.
 

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. . . I'm scheduling delivery for mine in about a week. . .
You might think about bringing that forward. With the current state of isolation measures, if USA follows UK's lead, all 'non-essential' businesses will be closed. Merely tipping you off.;) (I can't get my new Blade because of this:()
 

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I think I'll be okay. The deal's done, and the dealership had furloughed some, then brought them back. My salesmen is delivering it personally when he's off work. It was just a scheduling conflict for both of us, so this was just the best time to do it. Plus, I don't think Trump wants to enforce a complete lockdown just yet.

On this issue, I'm trying to tell everyone I know, and I hope you'll do the same, that, initial trials of hydroxychloroquine with azithromycin have shown miraculous results for curing this. I'm talking completely cured in 5 days of taking it. Hydroxychloroquine has been used safely for 75 years to treat malaria, and this is a money grab to try to say that only a vaccine can end this plague. I'm not a Trump fanboy, but he knows this, and he's right to be promoting this, and doctors in New York are starting to use it for treatment.

I know it's serious, and we're talking permanent scarring in your lungs, but, we have a cure. We just need the officials to get every doctor and hospital on board.

I think it would be best to let people get it (unless you're in severely affected places like New York), ala herd immunity, and administer the hydroxychloroquine and azithromycin as soon as a person shows symptoms and positive test results.

I'm thinking this will all be over in less than 2 months. Sorry for the off-topic.
 

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Where to begin - how about the beginning :)
Welcome to the SC77 family (y)

Just joined the forum as I've recently purchased a '17 SP, and am curious what would be considered issues that should be addressed. Right after I closed my deal, I found out about the 2017 TT crashes with McGuinness and Martin, which kinda freaked me out a bit. After doing more research, I can't help but wonder if all of the superbike upgrades and modifications may have played a part. I noticed an esteemed and obviously super knowledgeable forum member, I believe RC45, gave a great explanation of how the QS and auto blipper work, shedding light on the fact that alot of these average riders were experiencing false neutrals due to input error.
THe TT issues were due to the pre-release of the Gen 1 HRC ECU that they used. NO relation to any road bikes at all.
And as you noted street related QS issues on stock bikes are mostly rider error.

Let me first just say that I'm a fairly green rider. I purchased my first bike about 6 months ago (an '02 Blackbird), and did my first track weekend about a month ago. It was an eye opening experience, seeing the skill level of advanced, and even intermediate riders at the track, and how far I have yet to go. But it motivated me to take the plunge and buy a more modern, track oriented bike.

I went with the 25th anniversary Blade because it DID win some 2017 sport bike shootouts, it had all of the next gen electronics, and I liked the fact that it was geared towards making a rider feel more comfortable and controlled. That, and I've always been partial to Honda as a brand. I also dug that it had a feel of a lighter, smaller bike, as many have said.
The bike is a good choice and if you want a light forgiving bike to learn to go fast on.

I was watching a Dave Moss video today where he was tuning a guy's '17 SP, and he was saving his suspension settings in the "M2" bank, rather than the "M1" bank, citing "a software issue."
Someone else mentioned this video to me I suppose I need to pay his premium and watch it but I think he simply misunderstands what the M1 and M2 preset storage is for and how it works.

So, after looking through here a bit, and finding plenty of discussion about high end racing upgrades, I figured I'd make a post geared towards the bike's basic factory setup. What are its real known issues? What are things that should absolutely be addressed right out of the gate?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
If you leave the bike relatively stock, get the ECU tuned to remove the US top end power restrictions updating the ETV tables with the SP2 power profile ETV tables you will get the electronic wizardry you are wanting and a very fast bike as a bonus.

The Bridgestone trackday tires int he 190/55 rear profile as intended for the RC213V-S will give a subliming capably track bike that is a joy to ride on the road.

After you have done a bit of street riding and a few track-days with it then you can decide if you want to fuck it up buy modifying it :)

Folks that fuck with the ECU run into problems. Several notable video reviews of the 2020 posted in this forum mentioned that folks that were critical of the 2017-2019 models had never ridden one. I've never had a false neutral. Mine freaking shifts like butter. Now, If I've been out for a long ride without using first gear, then come to a stop and put it in first, sometimes I won't put enough effort into the shifter on the upshift and the bike will be in neutral instead of 2nd, but that's happened with other Hondas I've owned too. It's a longer throw from first to 2nd than upshifts from other gears. Bike's been flawless on downshifts.
No sure how after everything posted over the last 3 years you came to this conclusion.
QS issues have never been related to flashed ECUs - ever.
 

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Have gotten "-" error with STOCK 50 tire size, and N, with 55 rear, both at the track. So, I say yes, there is some issues. Bar none, the best trans ever I have experienced are on Triumphs. Pure bliss.
 

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Just joined the forum as I've recently purchased a '17 SP, and am curious what would be considered issues that should be addressed. Right after I closed my deal, I found out about the 2017 TT crashes with McGuinness and Martin, which kinda freaked me out a bit. After doing more research, I can't help but wonder if all of the superbike upgrades and modifications may have played a part. I noticed an esteemed and obviously super knowledgeable forum member, I believe RC45, gave a great explanation of how the QS and auto blipper work, shedding light on the fact that alot of these average riders were experiencing false neutrals due to input error.

Let me first just say that I'm a fairly green rider. I purchased my first bike about 6 months ago (an '02 Blackbird), and did my first track weekend about a month ago. It was an eye opening experience, seeing the skill level of advanced, and even intermediate riders at the track, and how far I have yet to go. But it motivated me to take the plunge and buy a more modern, track oriented bike.

I went with the 25th anniversary Blade because it DID win some 2017 sport bike shootouts, it had all of the next gen electronics, and I liked the fact that it was geared towards making a rider feel more comfortable and controlled. That, and I've always been partial to Honda as a brand. I also dug that it had a feel of a lighter, smaller bike, as many have said.

I was watching a Dave Moss video today where he was tuning a guy's '17 SP, and he was saving his suspension settings in the "M2" bank, rather than the "M1" bank, citing "a software issue."

So, after looking through here a bit, and finding plenty of discussion about high end racing upgrades, I figured I'd make a post geared towards the bike's basic factory setup. What are its real known issues? What are things that should absolutely be addressed right out of the gate?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Μy advice is you are way overthinking it being a very new rider. The TT crashes apply none to you, and us, really, the QS does have some minor issues at the track (and not everyday riding) and nothing really needs to immediately be addressed out of gate.
You want some confidence inspiring advice? Change the stock S21, get you a set of Q3+ (or equivalent or better) in 55 rear profile, and you will be in awe how great this bike is at the track.
 

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No sure how after everything posted over the last 3 years you came to this conclusion.
QS issues have never been related to flashed ECUs - ever.
Even in a pandemic I don't have enough time to go through 660 posts of a bike being disassembled, reassembled, disassembled, reassembled, disassembled, reassembled... :p
 

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I'm confused. Now it's preferred to use a 190/55? That wont screw up the traction control or quickshifter on a stock 2017??
 

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Even in a pandemic I don't have enough time to go through 660 posts of a bike being disassembled, reassembled, disassembled, reassembled, disassembled, reassembled... :p
So even when you have the time to do proper research you would rather just post wild ass guesses?

Got it ?

Nobody has ever posted about a Woolich Tune affecting Quick Shifting so still not sure how you concluded without reading the 660 posts that a flashed ECU affects Quick shifting.

I'm confused. Now it's preferred to use a 190/55? That wont screw up the traction control or quickshifter on a stock 2017??
Although not preferred, the Bridgestone RS10R in 190/55 specifically designed around the RC213V-S ECU have profile that turns out to be friendly to the SC77 ECU. But you could just get them in 190/50 and save having any possible troubles.

For what I am doing, which is just enjoying thrashing the street SP2 and the SuperBike SP2 around the local road course and the occasional street ride, 190/50 on the street bike and 200/55 on the SuperBike are very predictable and enjoyable.

Of course your mileage may vary and I am no speed racer but even the Honda test riders had no problems laying down blistering times on the SC77s with 190/50 rear tires.
 

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I'm confused. Now it's preferred to use a 190/55? That wont screw up the traction control or quickshifter on a stock 2017??
I have no issues whatsoever. (Some) QS issues are there, at the track only, even with stock size, as per my post. Also another rider has had minor QS issues at the track with the stock QS and stock bike that I know off.

So, any QS issues are there to begin with, with stock size, at track pace.

I have never engaged TC. Maybe because I try to be smooth or maybe because I’m a chicken. I see no point doing full throttle at once on the streets, and at the track smoothness is your friend. So, technically, since I have never slipped the rear, besides for a micro fraction of a second that I felt, I don’t even know if my TC is working. LOLOLOL. Should be, I’m stock.

It is definitely “preferred” or whatever else, again, for the track at least. Or if you ride the streets like the track ( you should not). The bike is transformed. Even stock size, this bike just dives at turn in, and follows input at any point midturn. Imagine it now even better.
 

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I have no issues whatsoever. (Some) QS issues are there, at the track only, even with stock size, as per my post. Also another rider has had minor QS issues at the track with the stock QS and stock bike that I know off.

So, any QS issues are there to begin with, with stock size, at track pace.

I have never engaged TC. Maybe because I try to be smooth or maybe because I’m a chicken. I see no point doing full throttle at once on the streets, and at the track smoothness is your friend. So, technically, since I have never slipped the rear, besides for a micro fraction of a second that I felt, I don’t even know if my TC is working. LOLOLOL. Should be, I’m stock.

It is definitely “preferred” or whatever else, again, for the track at least. Or if you ride the streets like the track ( you should not). The bike is transformed.
No, mostly because the bike wont know the rear tire is actually spinning until its too late if the diameter is too far off the ideal.

I know you and others don't want to accept or hear this but when you change the tire diameter significantly (and some 190/55 tires are up to 25mm taller than 190/50s) the Torque Management system wont fail with an error, it just wont kick in when anticipated.

But, thankfully the Honda engineers actually do know how to write a decent program and so combined with a sticky tire, an appropriate throttle profile (what power mode are in?) the reason you are not seeing an issue with TC is because it didn't need to kick in because the tire grip and applied power did not spin the tire.

It really is that simple - the system is intended to NOT need to engage TC all the time but only when needed. They do this by having metered power reach the back wheel.

The Honda philosophy is that it is quicker to keep accelerating with slightly less HP reaching the tire than to first detect a spin, then cut fuel, then regain grip then apply power again.
 

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No, mostly because the bike wont know the rear tire is actually spinning until its too late if the diameter is too far off the ideal.

I know you and others don't want to accept or hear this but when you change the tire diameter significantly (and some 190/55 tires are up to 25mm taller than 190/50s) the Torque Management system wont fail with an error, it just wont kick in when anticipated.

But, thankfully the Honda engineers actually do know how to write a decent program and so combined with a sticky tire, an appropriate throttle profile (what power mode are in?) the reason you are not seeing an issue with TC is because it didn't need to kick in because the tire grip and applied power did not spin the tire.

It really is that simple - the system is intended to NOT need to engage TC all the time but only when needed. They do this by having metered power reach the back wheel.

The Honda philosophy is that it is quicker to keep accelerating with slightly less HP reaching the tire than to first detect a spin, then cut fuel, then regain grip then apply power again.
I’m not sure what was not clear. I did say I don't know if my TC is working. Because I have not had the need for TC to kick in. At the same time I said I have not span the rear tire (to know if it does or does not). Until I spin the rear and TC kicks in, or not, I would not know.

In other words, I’m not talking about a TC light in the dash. I literally have not had the need to find out if it kicks in or not. My TC has not kicked in because there has been no slippage. If it hapens, then I would know if it works or not.

Nowhere did I say I’m not accepting “this.“ re-reading what I wrote, it’s clear to me I meant: because I have a 55 rear, it is possible TC is not working.
 
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