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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. I am now preparing my 2018 CBR to be a track bike so just looking around to see what people have done to theirs.
I have tracked it last year in stock trim for over 2500 miles and it hasn't missed a beat.

The limiting factor was always myself also afraid of pushing too much on a stock road bike.
 

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I have built a full race bike, The usual block off plates, exhaust, Woolich with race tools, full race bodywork, SBS brake pads with Motomaster rotors, Magura MC (love these on enduro bike and love the feel on the road race), GP front carts custom built by fuzzy with cap extenders, Ohlins rear, new lower link, 520 conversion -1 in front, do to tire diameter of race slicks, I have not had a problem with my traction or wheelie control, I do intentionally slide the rear to help me steer the bike, so could be me essentially some tracks is lowest setting, one track it intervenes on the off camber so I do not lawn dart, rear sets by Vortex, Kyle and I used older version and they milled me a custom piece works great, vortex clip on’s, Key eliminated to a switch so I use Ohlins steering dampener, full race body work from Hustle Hard, and race seat, Moto Holders fairing stay and subframe, lithium battery, chain adjusters with rear brake holder on tire changes, SS brake lines from Vortex, Velocity stacks from TenKate, HRC head gasket, degree the cams, I think that is everything.
 

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I have built a full race bike, The usual block off plates, exhaust, Woolich with race tools, full race bodywork, SBS brake pads with Motomaster rotors, Magura MC (love these on enduro bike and love the feel on the road race), GP front carts custom built by fuzzy with cap extenders, Ohlins rear, new lower link, 520 conversion -1 in front, do to tire diameter of race slicks, I have not had a problem with my traction or wheelie control, I do intentionally slide the rear to help me steer the bike, so could be me essentially some tracks is lowest setting, one track it intervenes on the off camber so I do not lawn dart, rear sets by Vortex, Kyle and I used older version and they milled me a custom piece works great, vortex clip on’s, Key eliminated to a switch so I use Ohlins steering dampener, full race body work from Hustle Hard, and race seat, Moto Holders fairing stay and subframe, lithium battery, chain adjusters with rear brake holder on tire changes, SS brake lines from Vortex, Velocity stacks from TenKate, HRC head gasket, degree the cams, I think that is everything.
What region are you racing in? Asia Pacific? Europe?

If you have a 2017/18/19 and your ECU was flashed with a version of Woolich Race Tools prior to January 2020 and you had removed all emissions equipment then you do not have any functional Torque Management or Wheelie Control.

.
 

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I am in Washington State we talked before, what do you mean I have no wheelie or traction control? Did Woolich have a flaw on the software? Like we spoke most tracks its essentially off so I can slide the bike around (per our one of our phone conversations) I have not been watching the threads or forum boards. So bring me up to speed on what is going on.
 

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I am in Washington State we talked before, what do you mean I have no wheelie or traction control? Did Woolich have a flaw on the software? Like we spoke most tracks its essentially off so I can slide the bike around (per our one of our phone conversations) I have not been watching the threads or forum boards. So bring me up to speed on what is going on.
Yes - previously we thought the unpredictable nature of the Torque Management was due to tire or sprocket changes. But then when I spoke with US, UK and Australian based folks I got oddly different feedback.

As when we chatted I mentioned the search for what is causing TM to be unpredictable - turned out it was not unpredictable, it was just not there. Period.

Due to the UK/Euro/Aussie bikes being unlocked from factory, the only bikes with "odd Torque Management" from overseas had been flashed with Woolich.

So, after back to back testing, buying new ECUs and determining that a slew of UK/Euro SPs and SP2s did NOT have significant issues with sprocket or tire size changes, its only Woolich tuned bikes that displayed "odd" behavior.

What threw us all off was that most everybody in the US ALREADY had changed sprockets and/or tires and flashed the ECUs just to unlock stock HP, so we were off chasing the wrong solution.

The Woolich tune had simply disabled all Torque Management. I let them know this was the case in late November and they have been working on a fix and it is almost ready.

But the bottom line is that if an ECU was Woolich flashed and tuned then TM is not working.

https://www.1000rr.net/forums/1000rr-general-discussion/256345-calling-all-woolich-flashed-2017-folks.html

The simplest test is to take the bike, select P1/T9 and go try do a wheelie. If the front wheel lifts and the TM light does NOT flash frantically and the front end get slammed down then TM is not working.
 

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Hi Jaykay,
I'm in the same boat as you. I bought my 2018 SP1 a year and half ago and I have spent my time getting aquatinted with the bike at the track and pushing myself to go farther. (I too acknowledge that I am the limiting factor). I came from riding a heavily modded SV650 track bike for 6 years, so the change was night and day for me. However, like you, I 'm gradually building the bike up now.

My bike has the factory quick-shifter, so I opted for the Sato racing rear-sets. They work in both standard shift and GP shift patterns and do not require a recalibration of the quick-shifter. I also added ASV F3 levers, a Sato lever guard and Sato axel sliders. I swapped out the black body parts (tank cover, side panels, underside, etc) with carbon fiber bits. It does save a few grams here or there, but shamefully, I did it for the bling. :)

So far I have decided against doing a full exhaust or slip-on, because the gains are minimal (2-3hp) and the SP1's exhaust is already titanium, so you only loose ~6-7 pounds. I also ride my bike occasionally on the streets (canyons mostly), so I don't want to smell like unburnt fuel after each ride due to removing the cat.

I have read all of RC45's threads and it is pretty clear that biggest gain is with a Woolich flash. ( :hail: thanks for your contributions dude!). I'm waiting to hear some feedback for the "Torque Management" bug fix and once that is sorted, it will be my next mod.

In the mean time, I've been doubling my gym time after work to shed some extra weight I picked up over the holidays.
 

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Pretty much sums it up - although our headers are stainless, very light stainless. At least by my hand held magnet test only the muffler seems to be Ti.

Hopefully we get a final test setup going this coming weekend to proof the new code.

The base fixed code may even already be in version 7.2.8. we haven't tested it specifically yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks. Lots of useful info here. I might just favourite this thread for future reference. I have had a lot of input from the ever helpful TenKate racing in the Netherlands and I’ve just seen a huge box delivered at home for me today so super excited. If most of the stuff is here then it’s just a matter of waiting till I have some time off to start the build.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am not using the wool inch for now. I’ll be using a rapidbike module. Will I get any warning lights from disconnecting the headlights and the AIS valve? Any other surprises? I’ve read about relocating the gyro sensor, I haven’t had a look yet but is it clearly identifiable behind the headlight?
 

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I am not using the wool inch for now. I’ll be using a rapidbike module. Will I get any warning lights from disconnecting the headlights and the AIS valve? Any other surprises? I’ve read about relocating the gyro sensor, I haven’t had a look yet but is it clearly identifiable behind the headlight?
Any particular reason you going the Rapidbike route?

And yes, AIS (PAIR), exhaust servo or O2 removal will cause unending issues with the SC77 ECU. You really do need to tune out the removed components.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
it was recommended by Ten Kate over the tune. Actually it was either/or. Mine is the SP and I'm not going with high lift cams etc so they reckoned I was better off with this as I wouldn't need to take the bike for a re-flash or anything and I can always remove it and sell it on.
 

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But if you are already track prepping the bike as in removing stock faring and replacing with fiberglass fairing, front subframe, smooth intake tubes, full exhaust, stainless braided hoses, disable ABS, rear brake hanger clip, rear sets etc. why not also flash the ECU to remove the top speed limit, flash in the SP2 ETV tables and Torque Management/Wheelie Control table (which sets WC to 0 for T1).

I suppose it all depends on how far you are taking "track prepping" your bike.

This is what my Ten Kate track prepped SP2 looked like in 2018, and by that stage it would seem silly not to flash the ECU.


 

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Discussion Starter #13
it was recommended by Ten Kate over the tune. Actually it was either/or. Mine is the SP and I'm not going with high lift cams etc so they reckoned I was better off with this as I wouldn't need to take the bike for a re-flash or anything and I can always remove it and sell it on.
They assured me I would get similar results to a flash tune.
I wasn't aware the SP2 had different ETV tables to the SP.
I had already read your thread about the woolich tune problems:0
I'm not sure the Euro bikes are speed limited.
A friend is getting his done with a tune so we shall be able to compare to some degree and if I feel it needs a flash then I will get one done and sell the module.

There isn't too much good info available in the UK as these bikes never really took off here. In an entire season I only ever saw one other SC77 on track.
 

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They assured me I would get similar results to a flash tune.
I wasn't aware the SP2 had different ETV tables to the SP.
I had already read your thread about the woolich tune problems:0
I'm not sure the Euro bikes are speed limited.
A friend is getting his done with a tune so we shall be able to compare to some degree and if I feel it needs a flash then I will get one done and sell the module.

There isn't too much good info available in the UK as these bikes never really took off here. In an entire season I only ever saw one other SC77 on track.
Yes, they are of course correct in the context of the Euro spec bikes. The flash is not needed to unlock that much extra performance (pretty much the only limit is the 299kmh top end) its just to tweak other ECU settings.

Also, many times in Ten Kates context, for them flashing the ECU of the SC77 means converting your current ECU into an HRC ECU which will of course render your bike unresaleable as a future street bike because you also need to modify your wire harness removing all street support components.

How far are you taking the "track bike' conversion?

And as for the Woolich problems they are finally going to be simply sorted by a code change by Woolich.
 

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Now I need to figure out which fuse to pull for the abs.
I seem to recall it is the ABS Motor fuse.
Or was it the ABS Main fuse.
Test by pulling the fuse and you should see the ABS error light on.
But all other functionality should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the quick response BTW. Much appreciated.
Abs main fuse 10amps
Abs motor fuse 30amps
Abs fsr fuse 30amps

My abs error light is already on from a bungled trackside tyre change. Basically, I changed both tyres and when I went to ride off down the pit lane the abs was pulsing like mad with every application. Stopped, took the wheels off, saw nothing obvious so slung them back on and went out for a play.

Haven’t had it checked yet, I need to take it to a dealer to check, but no faults in the dtc
 
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