[TurboDave]

Search the site on how to check for error codes. Make sure there are no injectors, ignition coils, or sensors unplugged. Check all your fuses. Find the fuel pump relay. It is in a plastic box on the front left under the turn signal. The wires are Brown, Brown/white, Black/white, and another Black/white.

Try to prime the fuel pump with a voltmeter connected to the fuel pump relay brown wire. There should should be 12 volts on the brown wire and Black/white wire when priming. If there is no voltage or low voltage, check the yellow wire junction on the right side of the motor near the radiator hose. It should have all black/white wires. Check each terminal for a burnt connection.

 

[TurboDave]

I am not sure which connectors you are talking about. There should be 4 fuel injector connectors on top of the airbox and one intake temperature sensor. Glad to hear you got 12 volts. Hopefully you can now get it running again.

Most of these motorcycles are starting to age. Some suffer from what I call "third owner" maintenance. That just means the bike was purchased cheap and doesn't get the best care like it did when it was new. Usually a young guy who can just afford to buy the bike but can't afford the maintenance. The type of fuel and weather in the area the bike lived also plays a role in its condition.

 

[TurboDave]

You have to jumper the power on the fuel pump relay contacts and use the key to turn it on and off for 10 seconds.

 

[TurboDave]

I read through this entire thread again. A few things seem to be missed...

Fuel pressure:
I couldn't find a post that said you tested the fuel pressure. You must test this!

You replaced the fuel pump...did you keep the new regulator? You mentioned the new regulator part number a couple times. That part number comes up as a replacement for ZX10R and Suzuki Burgman 650...those are 43 psi fuel systems. The CBR should be 50psi! Check that fuel pressure!

It doesn't matter where you test the fuel pressure at first, just make sure the regulator is giving 50 psi. You can rig up a gauge to a banjo and bolt it directly on the pump housing if needed. Get creative.

Check those injectors!
With the tank lifted, start the bike. Unplug each lower injector one at a time. If unplugging injector #1 causes it to run worse or die, plug it back in, restart the engine and try #2. If any injector can be unplugged without affecting how it runs, then something on that injector circuit is bad(bad wiring, clogged injector, dead injector, or stuck open injector).

Get a mechanics stethoscope, and listen to each injector while the engine is running. Does each one click/chatter consistently? Does each sound the same? If one doesn't sound the same or doesn't click, its either bad wiring, or a bad injector(not opening or stuck open). If any aren't clicking, test for ohms with a meter(I'll see if the book has a spec). If all injectors test the same ohms, try swapping the injector with no sound with one from another cylinder and listen again. If the non-clicking injector stays non-clicking, replace it or test it (see below). If the non-clicking stays on the same cylinder number(with a different injector), check the wiring to this injector plug.

You need to test the injectors spray pattern. They need a consistent shower head spray. Dribbling or no shower head pattern mean its clogged.

If you bought a spare throttle body that had an extra fuel rail, this make a great test device to check the spray pattern. Hook up the throttle body with all the injectors to your fuel pump and put the pump in a safe test fluid. Wire up power to a switch for the pump. Wire some alligator leads and maybe a switch to manually power one injector at a time to check the spray pattern. You can power a single injector off a 9 volt battery also.

Edit: the injectors have a mesh filter on the back of them, check these for debris.