I just installed the same...tight...but not too tight. I dont use torque numbers on anything but engine bolts and I leave that to my mech. Check them again after 50-100 miles and for the love of god do not over tighten as you will be looking at a new caliper/master if you do.
Did you use new crush washers? That's most likely your issue if you did not.i torqued mine down to spec but fluid was still showing around the washers and was leaking onto my wheels overnight, so i torqued them down as hard as i could, these are HEL lines not galfer, but im not sure that makes a difference.
they werent crush washers i dont think, they were new washers that came with the hel kit. crush washers have a split in them that overlaps and when you push it down it goes into place, correct? these were just copper.Did you use new crush washers? That's most likely your issue if you did not.
The copper washers are crush washers. I think you are referring to "lock" washers. Might want to replace the washers on the side that leaked. I have heard of new washers being bad and leaking. You shouldn't have to tighten more the torque specs, and it could be dangerous if you overtighten.they werent crush washers i dont think, they were new washers that came with the hel kit. crush washers have a split in them that overlaps and when you push it down it goes into place, correct? these were just copper.
i used motul rbf600 with hopes of doing some trackdays this summerI don't think all banjo bolts and crush washers are created equal anyway. I installed the Galfers that came with my Heli-Bars ant the instructions said 12 foot pounds, but if I remember correctly, the Honda manual called out a higher torque requirement for the stock assembly. You may want to check with the manufacturer of your lines and see what they recommend. It may be different than either Honda or Galfer.
By the way, what brake fluid did you use? Honda just says DOT 4 in the manual and that doesn,t cost any where near $30 a bottle.