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Seems to be impossible to find an aftermarket solution for smooth intake tubes for the 17-19 Fireblade as the available offerings are only suitable for race fairings, not the OEM street fairings unfortunately. So I'm looking at a minor mod for the OEM intake tubes if anyone has any ideas. My current idea is to simply remove both resonators and bung up the two holes on each intake tube with rubber grommets to seal both the holes, just need to find suitable grommets. Not sure whether the mod will be worth it as 'smooth' will be less than ideal somewhat modding the OEM intakes however I'm hoping for a result in any case. Any input welcome.....

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Since it is not possible to get a straight answer from EDR, what are all the mods done to this bike?

6rwhp without even removing the rubber restriction?
Yes it's my bike he used, it's 100% US stock, he only swapped out the stock intakes to the ones they designed, pretty cool. I heard the US bikes come with different intakes than the Europe SP1's, is that true?
 

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Yes it's my bike he used, it's 100% US stock, he only swapped out the stock intakes to the ones they designed, pretty cool. I heard the US bikes come with different intakes than the Europe SP1's, is that true?

That is the case, the intake tubes and velo stacks are different. I would ordinarily be fairly skeptical of even a 3-4 hp claim but I might just try a set myself. The NA spec bikes weren't changed by Honda to increase power, after all...
 

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I ordered a set of euro part number velocity stacks back in 2017 and they appeared to be the same.
But with regard to velocity sacks, I had a very long talk with Ten Kate about this and their testing on a stock engine had the differences in line with margin of error and only observed noticable measurable differences when combined with other modificaitons.

But to clarify @OldsCool your bike had to at least have the front wheel speed sensor flashed out to be on the dyno, so are we really really really really sure the bike was otherwise still 100% ECU stock as well?

I am always skeptical since I have seen so much dyno bullshit over the years.

I am also interested exactly what material they are printed from as early tests I did with 3D printed intake velocity stacks using a variety of supposed hardy filaments, had the material deteriorating in a relatively short time due to exposure to atomized gasoline.

My comments are not meant to malign the mod, as I might even expect some impact on the torque curve by the shortened intake runners. If the power has moved up the curve without changing anything else I might expect a little more negative influence lower down the rev range.
 

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I ordered a set of euro part number velocity stacks back in 2017 and they appeared to be the same.
But with regard to velocity sacks, I had a very long talk with Ten Kate about this and their testing on a stock engine had the differences in line with margin of error and only observed noticable measurable differences when combined with other modificaitons.

But to clarify @OldsCool your bike had to at least have the front wheel speed sensor flashed out to be on the dyno, so are we really really really really sure the bike was otherwise still 100% ECU stock as well?

I am always skeptical since I have seen so much dyno bullshit over the years.

I am also interested exactly what material they are printed from as early tests I did with 3D printed intake velocity stacks using a variety of supposed hardy filaments, had the material deteriorating in a relatively short time due to exposure to atomized gasoline.

My comments are not meant to malign the mod, as I might even expect some impact on the torque curve by the shortened intake runners. If the power has moved up the curve without changing anything else I might expect a little more negative influence lower down the rev range.
Well I know the bike is stock because I just bought it new last month for my 50th bday, stock ECU as well, although we did talk about flashing it in the future along with some other mods, but for now she's bone stock, even stock air filter.

I don't know enough about designing and 3D printing these so I won't act like I do, check out the EDR Performance facebook page they have a lot of details about it and the materials etc posted there, Donte spent a ton of time on design, there's a lot more to just printing them.

I've known Eric (Eric Dorn Racing) for 30+ years, we grew up and rode bikes together back in our teen years, and I've had dozens of bikes through his shops over the years, EDR build quality is top shelf excellent in every way. If you're on a budget there are better options, but if you're wanting the best that is EDR. He asked me if he could use my new SP1 to show the results, I was happy to oblige, free power, truth. :cool:





 

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Well I know the bike is stock because I just bought it new last month for my 50th bday, stock ECU as well, although we did talk about flashing it in the future along with some other mods, but for now she's bone stock, even stock air filter.

I don't know enough about designing and 3D printing these so I won't act like I do, check out the EDR Performance facebook page they have a lot of details about it and the materials etc posted there, Donte spent a ton of time on design, there's a lot more to just printing them.

I've known Eric (Eric Dorn Racing) for 30+ years, we grew up and rode bikes together back in our teen years, and I've had dozens of bikes through his shops over the years, EDR build quality is top shelf excellent in every way. If you're on a budget there are better options, but if you're wanting the best that is EDR. He asked me if he could use my new SP1 to show the results, I was happy to oblige, free power, truth. :cool:
If your bike was on the dyno then it was flashed. The bike needs the front wheel speed sensor error code flashed out to run it on the dyno, since the front wheel doesn't turn but the rear wheel does.

That's why I am asking are we very sure that there was no other tuning done while the bike was on the dyno. But as I say, I might expect the power curve to be moved a little by shorter intake runners. But it is unusual to see power added without accompanying fuel or air flow changes.

I do in fact know a lot about designing and 3D printing and that is why I said the intake trumpet designs I 3D printed & tested in early 2018 suffered from deterioration by the fuel.
I also spent hours discussing intake trumpet designs with Ten Kate - the guys that ran the RedBull superbike team and that's when it was determined that on a 100% stock bike (granted these were European stock bikes) the changes from intake trumpets fell within the error range on the dyno until complimentary fuel and air mods were made.
 

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If your bike was on the dyno then it was flashed. The bike needs the front wheel speed sensor error code flashed out to run it on the dyno, since the front wheel doesn't turn but the rear wheel does.

That's why I am asking are we very sure that there was no other tuning done while the bike was on the dyno. But as I say, I might expect the power curve to be moved a little by shorter intake runners. But it is unusual to see power added without accompanying fuel or air flow changes.

I do in fact know a lot about designing and 3D printing and that is why I said the intake trumpet designs I 3D printed & tested in early 2018 suffered from deterioration by the fuel.
I also spent hours discussing intake trumpet designs with Ten Kate - the guys that ran the RedBull superbike team and that's when it was determined that on a 100% stock bike (granted these were European stock bikes) the changes from intake trumpets fell within the error range on the dyno until complimentary fuel and air mods were made.
Yes correct, it is 100% stock other than their stacks.
 

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Yes correct, it is 100% stock other than their stacks.
Along with the flash to do the dyno run :)
What is your red line? 13,500rpm ro 13,800rpm?
And EDR left you with altered intake tract and no supporting air/fuel changes?
Do you have a before and after dyno so we can see how the power curve moved?
As its not really possible to add power without supporting air/fuel changes - all that really happens is the power is moved along the curve.
 

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Seems to be impossible to find an aftermarket solution for smooth intake tubes for the 17-19 Fireblade as the available offerings are only suitable for race fairings, not the OEM street fairings unfortunately. So I'm looking at a minor mod for the OEM intake tubes if anyone has any ideas. My current idea is to simply remove both resonators and bung up the two holes on each intake tube with rubber grommets to seal both the holes, just need to find suitable grommets. Not sure whether the mod will be worth it as 'smooth' will be less than ideal somewhat modding the OEM intakes however I'm hoping for a result in any case. Any input welcome.....

View attachment 257949
I am going to be taking delivery of some prototype "race smooth tube to OEM fairing" connection pieces that are part of a dormant project, in a week or so.

I am thinking about resurrecting the project and selling connectors. We'll see how it goes.
 

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I am going to be taking delivery of some prototype "race smooth tube to OEM fairing" connection pieces that are part of a dormant project, in a week or so.

I am thinking about resurrecting the project and selling connectors. We'll see how it goes.
Resurrect the project mate, there doesn't seem a market capture for the stock OEM intake tube mods as far as I have searched. For the interim at least, I'm going to just install blank rubber grommets and see how things turn out. My expectation isn't high, just interested in small incremental mods that will help along the way.

I get what you are asking OldsCool as the only way that the dyno tuner could run the bike on a dyno is to access the ECU and disable the front wheel sensor. The skeptic tendency then wonders if there was more to the story in achieving a product sell point regarding claimed HP gains with just Velocity Stacks being installed on a stock ECU. By all means I am not discrediting OldsCool, there's just a few unanswered queries that's all knowing how these bikes respond. Hell, if it true, I'll buy a set.
 

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This is what EDR claims:
+7 rwhp on a 100% stock bike with no other changes, even stock ecu tune!
Yes I am curious as well how the dyno run was performed without an ecu flash.
Maybe OldScool can confirm with EDR how the dyno was run.
 

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Hey guys, I'm just a rider not a wrencher by any means sorry guys, if I try to even speak technical about how the stacks or dyno works I will do it no justice. I sent Eric a link to this forum thread, he said "if anyone that doubts it can schedule a time to bring their bike in they will dyno in front of them back to back, if they don't get the minimum result he'll give them for $0, period." I know that's not an option for all, but I know what I have, it's a stock bike. If anyone has questions for EDR about their stacks please message or post on their FB or IG, that way your question is clear and they can answer clear, if I'm in the middle I will only misspeak something so will smartly defer to the experts, hope you can understand, thanks.
 

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This is what EDR claims:
+7 rwhp on a 100% stock bike with no other changes, even stock ecu tune!
Yes I am curious as well how the dyno run was performed without an ecu flash.
Maybe OldScool can confirm with EDR how the dyno was run.
I supposed they could have just flashed out the Front Wheel Speed sensor, made a base line dyno run, changed the velocity stacks, done an after dyno run then flashed the Front wheel Speed back and walked away :)
 

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Can't they run the bike on the dyno, clear the error code between each run with an obd reader, or with woolich? Without needing to flash the ecu.
 

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Can't they run the bike on the dyno, clear the error code between each run with an obd reader, or with woolich? Without needing to flash the ecu.
No. The bike is aware that the front wheel speed sensor has failed (as it is not detecting any movement) and as such once the bike runs to full throttle and past a certain threshold - exactly what threshold we are not sure - the bike will shut itself down. Its all most as if you run into the rev limiter except the bike shuts off the electrical power, so its like you hit the kill switch.

Its not just an error light that comes on. It is an actual error condition that is detected and the Autoblipper, QS and all Torque Management is disabled.

This was in fact the original motivation behind Woolich getting stuck into the SC77b ECU so early on. Remember the Aussie bikes were already at full power so there was no rush to crack the ECU other than initially be able to make proper dyno runs for Power-commander piggy back tuning.

Even the initial Ten Kate test bikes were run with Power commander - but they addressed the wheel speed sensor issue by rigging a front sensor on the back wheel.

Sorry, way more back ground info than you probably wanted to know.

TLDR; No, you need to flash the sensor error out.
 

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I ordered a set of euro part number velocity stacks back in 2017 and they appeared to be the same.
But with regard to velocity sacks, I had a very long talk with Ten Kate about this and their testing on a stock engine had the differences in line with margin of error and only observed noticable measurable differences when combined with other modificaitons.

But to clarify @OldsCool your bike had to at least have the front wheel speed sensor flashed out to be on the dyno, so are we really really really really sure the bike was otherwise still 100% ECU stock as well?

I am always skeptical since I have seen so much dyno bullshit over the years.

I am also interested exactly what material they are printed from as early tests I did with 3D printed intake velocity stacks using a variety of supposed hardy filaments, had the material deteriorating in a relatively short time due to exposure to atomized gasoline.

My comments are not meant to malign the mod, as I might even expect some impact on the torque curve by the shortened intake runners. If the power has moved up the curve without changing anything else I might expect a little more negative influence lower down the rev range.
Do you have the .stl for the velocity stacks?
I've looked everywhere online for a 3d mode. Preferably for an 08' thanks.
 
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