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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have about 10,000 miles on the OEM chain and sprockets. I powder coated my swingarm and I'm wondering if I need to replace the chain and or sprockets at this mileage while I have it off or If I can just put a new master link in it? Sorry if it's a dumb question.

I have been keeping the slack on the loose end of the suggested amount and kept it religiously lubricated for those miles. If I do put on a new chain I will be trying the 520 set up, but I don't want to just throw out a perfectly good chain if I can help it.
 

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u can reuse it. i put about 16k miles on my stocker and only changed it to a 520 just do it. the chain was still in excellent condition so i gave it to rajun cajun, along with the sprockets cuz his were eaten up pretty badly
 

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If it's not showing signs of extreme wear, you could reuse it, but if you've already got the wheel and swingarm off, I would go ahead and replace the chain and make some gearing changes.
 

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Red Wingin Georgia Boy
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yeah man ive heard of plenty of people getting 15,000+ miles on their stockers as long as they take care of it...although if you do the conversion to the 520 and change your gearing you will be extremely happy you did so...
 

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The Awesome
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You'd probably be fine stickin' with the stocker, but you'd might as well change to a 520 and go with a -1 +2 gearing change while you're at it. That's what I did when I was changing out my swingarm for a powdercoated one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alright, I made the executive decision to keep the OEM chain for the rest of the season and I'll look into a 520 after that.

Quick question: Who makes the OEM chain for a 2006 1000RR? It says Japan on almost all of the links if that helps.
 

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I am installing 520 right now out of necessity. The chain was pretty loose and making that slapping noise in between gears, also rear sprocket was starting to spike. I'm at 14.7k miles roughly.

Also for others who have changed the rear sprocket. Did you go with aluminum or steel?
 

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You Can tell if bad by check for tight spots. I would not change it because you have the tire off unless you want to. Taking the tire off is easy.
Move the chain around and should move around all the same. If you have links that seam to be seizing, you need a new chain.
 

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Alright, I made the executive decision to keep the OEM chain for the rest of the season and I'll look into a 520 after that.

Quick question: Who makes the OEM chain for a 2006 1000RR? It says Japan on almost all of the links if that helps.
How care. EK and DID both make great chain. I personally run DID ER series

I run steel drive and aluminum driven. I have seen aluminum with steel teeth. Never used them nor do I know how much they cost put if you want the best of both worlds....
 

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24k on mine. so no.

or do it. i don't care.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
24k on mine. so no.

or do it. i don't care.
The tool (Motion Pro Jumbo) should arrive today with a new master link for the OEM chain. Thanks Brad! :thumbsup:
 

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Top Out R1 190mph
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Anybody know the suggested chain slack amount? Mine look pretty loose compare with my r1.
 

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Red Wingin Georgia Boy
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Anybody know the suggested chain slack amount? Mine look pretty loose compare with my r1.
Suggested slack i believe is about 1 to 1.5 inches. Also a matter of personal liking if you like it tighter or not. Some people leave it real tight and some leave it what others would consider it loose...
 

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Alright, I made the executive decision to keep the OEM chain for the rest of the season and I'll look into a 520 after that.

Quick question: Who makes the OEM chain for a 2006 1000RR? It says Japan on almost all of the links if that helps.

I love how someone asks for advice and then when almost everybody replies with the same advice the original poster ignores them all and does the exact opposite.
 
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