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Discussion Starter #1
I, like many, have gone with an aftermarket clutch and lost the clutch switch in the process. Just splicing the switch wires together or by some means jumping out the circuit.
Only downside is the bike can now be started in gear because the ECU now thinks the clutch lever is always pulled in right? The switch is just a 'safety' switch, no big deal right?

WRONG!

According to Woolich the ECU uses the clutch switch (as well as the neutral sensor/switch) to switch between ignition maps! So if you currently have your clutch switch jumped out tricking the ECU into thinking you have the clutch lever pulled in at all times you are using the neutral/clutch in ignition maps at all times.
I have been riding my bike this way since I purchased it 9k miles ago. Although the bike does run great to me I'm wondering if I haven't caused damage to the engine using the wrong ignition maps for so long. I started getting a bad cam chain noise while I believed was the CCT (and have ordered the Ape manual tensioner which I will install this week).
I am also going to install a clutch lever with the switch active but in the mean time will just disconnect the switch wires so the circuit stays open using the in gear ignition maps at all times since I'm having a hard time finding an aftermarket clutch with the switch available due to Covid.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I am also told that when pulling the clutch in the ECU only uses the primary injectors so I have been riding the bike with no secondary injectors at all!
Interested to see if the engine performs different once I get the clutch switch back operational.
If what I have learned about the ECU using the clutch switch is accurate it should be a noticeable improvement
 

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I'd be interested to know just how lean things are at high-rpm/load, if that info about the secondary injectors is correct. (and I hope not so lean as to be a contributor to the "cam chain noise").
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm pretty sure my cam chain noise is just the tensioner. It started at about 8000 miles and I only hear it between 4k-and 6k rpms so I should be good there.

I haven't compared the 2 ignition maps yet so I'm not sure about timing issues but I have always wondered why I can't get the bike up over 170mph (and I have aftermarket exhaust, air filter, and woolich autotune) while some claim on a bone stock bike they can hit in excess of 185mph

I will be installing the APE manual CCT, and going with a CRG clutch lever/perch that has the provision for the clutch switch. Just having a hard time finding one with a short lever due to this covid crap

I will definitely update once I get it sorted out
 

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I'm pretty sure my cam chain noise is just the tensioner. It started at about 8000 miles and I only hear it between 4k-and 6k rpms so I should be good there.

I haven't compared the 2 ignition maps yet so I'm not sure about timing issues but I have always wondered why I can't get the bike up over 170mph (and I have aftermarket exhaust, air filter, and woolich autotune) while some claim on a bone stock bike they can hit in excess of 185mph

I will be installing the APE manual CCT, and going with a CRG clutch lever/perch that has the provision for the clutch switch. Just having a hard time finding one with a short lever due to this covid crap

I will definitely update once I get it sorted out
I got you! I have the same clutch perch but I bought it with a short lever that I hated so I switched to a long lever. It's in great shape and you can have it free + $5 shipping. Let me know if you want it.
259295
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What did your Woolich Log Box AFR data look like?
Originally when I started tuning I couldn't say, been a few years.
Now I have them dialed in pretty close, slightly lean down low (14-13.8) and slightly rich up top (12.2-12.8)
 

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At least we know that the primary injectors have a duty cycle that can serve all the fueling needs :)

Will be interesting to log again and see if the upper injectors are now providing more than necessary fuel
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wont be til next week when all the parts come in and I get them installed but yeah im very interested to see how the engine performs using the correct "in gear" ignition maps and secondary injectors.
For the record...…...Woolich stated they "believed" honda only used the primary injectors while in neutral/in gear maps were applied but it makes sense. No need for secondary injectors while revving the bike in neutral or not under a load.

And once again I stumbled across this issue while discussing a completely separate issue with members here on this site. I cant stress enough how much I have learned, appreciate the members here, and most of all the character and knowledge base of the members. Yeah there are a few satchel of Richards here and there but for the most part this is a solid community that helps one another most of the time just for the sake of helping a fellow rider and CBR owner.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Update:

So I installed a clutch lever with provision for the clutch switch.
Clutch switch now in working order (tried to start bike in gear without clutch lever pulled, no start, also filtered out clutch in data in Woolich autotune and data still populated cells where as previously no data would show)
First impressions and ride:
Bike idles perfectly now, kicks down out of high idle with one blip of throttle as it should. Perfect idle at stop lights.
Power delivery throughout rpm range is much smoother and stronger now but noticed no difference in the top end or in 6th gear at WOT.
My Afr readings in autotune are different now than prior to clutch switch install which would make sense if ignition maps are now different.
I will update once I get a few good tuning sessions flashed into the ECU but I did spent time comparing the neutral/clutch in and in gear ignition maps and the neutral/ignition maps have alot less timing advance and are much less smooth with many peaks and valleys evident so I see no harm done from the timing aspect of running the bike with the clutch switch jumped out.
 
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