[MCPhotographer]

Another thread about crank no start. I hate to be on here asking this but I'm looking for help/suggestions. My issue is with the electrical diagnosis. I'm shit with a multi-meter. Don't know how to run down what is causing the issue. Here's the situation

: Bought bike from member here about 7 years ago. Because of issues with my landlord I hadn't been able to work on it. Supposedly it was running when purchased. My buddy bought it for me cause the member wouldn't ship direct. My friend said he rode it when he got it. Then he shipped it here from back east. I couldn't get it started when it arrived (low battery). Feel like the seller misrepresented the actual mileage from looking at the wear on it, but can't say for certain. Mileage is just at 4,000ish. It was a track bike and typical track shit was done to it. Anyways, I stripped it of a lot of the upgrades, sold those, and it then it sat. Fast forward to now. So far I've done:

BTW:When cranking I have a touring Harley battery with a full charge connected via jumper cables to the new battery in the bike. I do this because our batteries are so small and lose quite a bit of CCAs after a few attempted starting cycles.

:New plugs
:New airbox
:New Radiator
:New oil (3.5 qts), new filter. Sight glass shows full (on stands).
: Power commander removed
:Injectors removed and cleaned
:New fuel
:Fuel pump primes. Tried a different fuel pump and it also primes
:Old new battery, crank no start
:New New battery, crank no start
:All the fuses I can think of have been checked
:Starting Fluid sprayed straight into the cylinders. Crank no start.
rimary Injectors cleaned (again I think because couldn't remember 100% if I had done it but 99% sure I did)
:Fuel cut off relay jumped and key on. As per manual, fuel hose to secondary injectors disconnected Fuel does flow (from both fuel pumps I have). Did not have a container to measure the exact amount, but it was a fair bit
:Continuity for all injectors tested and good.
:Voltage for primary injector connectors good and testing within range
:All fuses replaced, even though the ones sitting in the package look as oxidized as the ones in the bike (cleaned with steel wool).
Now, when I started this process, bike would light up but wouldn't crank (there are no headlights on ATM. BAS is mounted in place). Turned out to be a missing clutch switch on the perch. Which makes me wonder how he had this wired to start before and why this was even missing. Borrowed a switch from a fellow member (as well as the radiator - thanks to Mr Stott). I couldn't get it into neutral (had no rearsets on it) and had to go through 2 sets to get the damn thing to go into neutral. Now it will crank both with the clutch pulled in and while in neutral. I do have an Fi light. Not sure if that would cause a no start.
ECU replaced with another unit. Thought to be good but not 100% sure.

Some of my questions to start are:
: Could missing, incorrectly routed hoses cause a no start situation? Outside of the fuel line, it looks like they are both breather hoses. Also looks like the evap canister is missing. Checked again, this is a non-California bike so pretty sure it did not have one.
Need to check all the terminals at this point I guess. I think I might be better off buying a known good harness and replacing everything (time-wise).

I'm going to start going through the list but jumpering connectors and checking continuity are just outside of my current wheelhouse. Any help is appreciate. Pictures help immensely as well. Thanks to everyone in advance who tries to help on this.

 

[sketterman]

I don't know if any of this will help, but in the event that your issue lies with your battery / stator / anything related to your charging system, you might find some useful info here:

Charging system problems? Start here.

It seems that motorcycles are more prone to charging system problems than four wheeled vehicles. I believe that motorcycle owners are also more likely to try to diagnose and solve those charging system problems than the average car owner. Sometimes the problem is as simple as a battery that...

www.1000rr.net

Also, I was once completely inept when it came to using a multimeter, too. Just go through the included manual...it should tell you which settings for testing various items. Also, lots of great how-to videos on Youtube. Hope you get her up and running man, '06 is an outstanding year for the 1KRR!

Shaun

 

[TurboDave]

Check for fuel. Crank for a few seconds then smell the exhaust pipe for fuel. Check for wet plugs. Getting gas?
Yes -> Injectors are firing. Check for spark*. Have spark?
| Yes -> Check fuel pressure. Fuel pressure ok?
| | Yes -> Check if the idle screw fell out. Check if the idle air valves are synchronized. Idle adjustment ok?
| | | Yes -> Check compression. Compression ok?
| | | | Yes -> Not the right amount of fuel or timing is off. Remove tuners. Replace ecu. Clean injectors. etc.
| | | | No -> Cracked ring, bent valves, or other bad things. Time to rebuild the motor.
| | | No -> Set idle air valves covering 1 to 1.5 holes. Make sure they are all nearly the same.
| | No -> Clean or replace fuel filter. Check pump. Check fuel regulator. Check fuel line for kinks.
| No -> Check coil wiring.
No -> Check FI error code. Check CMP, CKP, injectors, coils, MAP, IAT, TPS. Check CMP cam wheel for bends.

*Checking for spark. You'll have to leave the plugs in and use a spare plug so you don't fireball your eyebrows off. Or use a timing light on the trigger wire of the coils. It will be any one of the colored wires going to the coils that is NOT a black/white wire. This works on the dyno but I haven't tried a timing light so no guarantees this will work.

 

[MCPhotographer]

I will be checking spark and pressure next. I have to remove the radiator and airbox again to do so. TurboDave, wondering if you have any experience with this. There is an anti-theft device built into the ignition as I understand it. The voltage is supposed to step down from 12v to 9v. Now I've taken a multi-meter and back probed both wires that go from the ignition to the wiring harness. I turn on the ignition and the reading out of both sides are 12v. Is one of those sides supposed to read 9? As I understand it there is a resistor in there and if it goes bad it will not step down the voltage.

 

[TurboDave]

My understanding is that this CBR is just a two wire switch that feeds the rest of the fuses. Stepping down to 9 volt then feeding the rest of the system wouldn't work. If you have a two wire ignition switch, there isn't a resistor.

 

[MCPhotographer]

That's what I've got, two wires. People keep talking about a pink wire but that diode only appears to be on the 600s. There are also a couple of other posts talking about a step down, but again, no idea where that occurs on this bike. If at all. Thanks for the reply.

 

[shamusleary]

Another thread about crank no start. I hate to be on here asking this but I'm looking for help/suggestions. My issue is with the electrical diagnosis. I'm shit with a multi-meter. Don't know how to run down what is causing the issue. Here's the situation

: Bought bike from member here about 7 years ago. Because of issues with my landlord I hadn't been able to work on it. Supposedly it was running when purchased. My buddy bought it for me cause the member wouldn't ship direct. My friend said he rode it when he got it. Then he shipped it here from back east. I couldn't get it started when it arrived (low battery). Feel like the seller misrepresented the actual mileage from looking at the wear on it, but can't say for certain. Mileage is just at 4,000ish. It was a track bike and typical track shit was done to it. Anyways, I stripped it of a lot of the upgrades, sold those, and it then it sat. Fast forward to now. So far I've done:

BTW:When cranking I have a touring Harley battery with a full charge connected via jumper cables to the new battery in the bike. I do this because our batteries are so small and lose quite a bit of CCAs after a few attempted starting cycles.

:New plugs
:New airbox
:New Radiator
:New oil (3.5 qts), new filter. Sight glass shows full (on stands).
: Power commander removed
:Injectors removed and cleaned
:New fuel
:Fuel pump primes. Tried a different fuel pump and it also primes
:Old new battery, crank no start
:New New battery, crank no start
:All the fuses I can think of have been checked
:Starting Fluid sprayed straight into the cylinders. Crank no start.
rimary Injectors cleaned (again I think because couldn't remember 100% if I had done it but 99% sure I did)
:Fuel cut off relay jumped and key on. As per manual, fuel hose to secondary injectors disconnected Fuel does flow (from both fuel pumps I have). Did not have a container to measure the exact amount, but it was a fair bit
:Continuity for all injectors tested and good.
:Voltage for primary injector connectors good and testing within range
:All fuses replaced, even though the ones sitting in the package look as oxidized as the ones in the bike (cleaned with steel wool).
Now, when I started this process, bike would light up but wouldn't crank (there are no headlights on ATM. BAS is mounted in place). Turned out to be a missing clutch switch on the perch. Which makes me wonder how he had this wired to start before and why this was even missing. Borrowed a switch from a fellow member (as well as the radiator - thanks to Mr Stott). I couldn't get it into neutral (had no rearsets on it) and had to go through 2 sets to get the damn thing to go into neutral. Now it will crank both with the clutch pulled in and while in neutral. I do have an Fi light. Not sure if that would cause a no start.
ECU replaced with another unit. Thought to be good but not 100% sure.

Some of my questions to start are:
: Could missing, incorrectly routed hoses cause a no start situation? Outside of the fuel line, it looks like they are both breather hoses. Also looks like the evap canister is missing. Checked again, this is a non-California bike so pretty sure it did not have one.
Need to check all the terminals at this point I guess. I think I might be better off buying a known good harness and replacing everything (time-wise).

I'm going to start going through the list but jumpering connectors and checking continuity are just outside of my current wheelhouse. Any help is appreciate. Pictures help immensely as well. Thanks to everyone in advance who tries to help on this.

Did you notice if they installed an Ignition Retard Controller?

If they did, remove it.

Dyno Jet Power Commander Ignition Retard Control IRC

Dyno Jet, Power Commander IRC, IRC, Dyno Jet IRC, Ignition Retard Control IRC

www.hardracing.com

Cheers

 

[MCPhotographer]

Thanks for the reply. I did not. Is this something available for 04-07? There was a PCIII on there. I'm only seeing this for 08 up.