Threw this together to try to answer some of the noob questions that keep popping up every few weeks. Maybe an admin will sticky
I'll try to add things as I think about them. If I'm wrong about anything, please let me know. It won't hurt my feelings. I'm just trying to help others out and keep the redundant threads to a minimum. Hope this helps someone out.
Service Manual PDF:
It’s in Deathace’s sig
Gearing chart spreadsheet (Microsoft Excel):
Upper cowl removal:
There are 2 flapper mods, the intake flapper mod and the exhaust flapper mod. There is much debate on the efficacy of doing either mod. From my research, I agree with the prevailing view that both were implemented by Honda to meet EPA sound requirements. And here is your legal disclaimer, doing these mods on a street bike is against the law (see the sticker on your swing arm that talks about noise emission control-that is if you haven’t removed it).
·Intake flapper mod
-in each of the ram air intake tubes, there is a door (flapper) connected with a diaphragm and solenoid that stays closed at lower RPMs and then opens once the RPMs reach a certain level. The intake flapper mod involves from the simplest level of disconnecting the diaphragm from the flapper door and removing the spring to the more complex level of removing all the flapper components and smoothing out the inside of the ram air tubes.
If you want to go all out finish here:
·Exhaust flapper mod
-this mod will leave the exhaust flap in the stock muffler in the open position even at lower RPMs. To state the obvious, but it has been asked before, you do not need to do this mod if you are replacing the stock muffler with a slip-on or full system. Important note, DO NOT
remove the servo motor.
If you are a little more ambitious, you can remove the cat too:
This mod is done to get more accurate results for your air-to-fuel ratio (AFR). This is needed when you are getting your bike dyno’ed, running an auto-tune device with a DynoJet PCV or Bazzaz Z-Fi, a data logger such as DynoJet’s Wideband Commander. If you are just dyno’ing your bike, you can just clamp the PAIR hoses if you don’t want to go through with the mod. As you see in the thread, you can either just remove the hoses and cap off the tubes or you can install PAIR block-off plates. If you install the plates, just be careful as several members have reported breaking the screws when removing the PAIR valve covers.
US spec Ignition Retard Fix:
There are several options to fix the ignition retard that Honda put into the US spec ECU.
1.The 2 cheapest ways are the DynoJet IRC and Bazzaz Z-bomb. Both are stand-alone devices, but it is highly recommended that they be used in conjunction with some other fuel management device such as DynoJet’s PCIII or PCV or Bazzaz’s Z-Fi because they lean out the bike.
2.A bit more expensive is to use DynoJet’s PCIII or PCV with the DynoJet Ignition Module (IM).
3.The most expensive would be to get an HRC ECU.
Removing the front seat:
Passenger peg removal:
This is a bit of a pain, but not too bad especially if you have already installed a fender eliminator. You may want to wait and get the Sato Racing Street Hooks before you do this mod so that you only have to do this once.
High Intensity Discharge lights-Why would you want to install these. People either install these to get brighter headlights, for the possible color of the headlights, or both. If you want to install these for both lights, you will need a dual light kit with slim ballasts. What that means is that the kit will have 2 slim ballasts (these are smaller than the regular size ballasts), and 2 HID bulbs. You will want to order H7 bulbs. The temperature (K) that you order is all personal preference. If you want to save some money, you can order a single kit and just do the low beam.
Dual headlight mod:
If you want to get rid of the single light low beam look, you have 3 options (besides leaving the high beam on).
1.Wire in a device to run the high beam at 40% power when the low beam is on and at 100% when the high beam is on.
2.Swap out to H4 bulbs and wire in a relay to run the new bulbs.
3.If you want to use HIDs, you will have to do a HID projector retrofit.
Dynojet Power Commanders:
The Power Commander III (PCIII) is what is officially supported on the 2008 model. The Power Commander V (PCV or PC5) is officially supported only on the 2009 model. Can you use the PCV on a 2008? Although not officially supported by Dynojet, you can install it on an 08. I remember reading that at least one member who has done this with no problems.
Should you install the PCV instead of the PCIII? Depends upon if you already have a PCIII. If you already have PCIII and don't need the added features of the PCV, then just keep the PCIII. If you don't have one and plan on buying new, you might as well get the PCV as the price is just about the same.
Thank you to all who have contributed to the threads that I have linked to :th_salute: