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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Threw this together to try to answer some of the noob questions that keep popping up every few weeks. Maybe an admin will sticky ;)
I'll try to add things as I think about them. If I'm wrong about anything, please let me know. It won't hurt my feelings. I'm just trying to help others out and keep the redundant threads to a minimum. Hope this helps someone out.

Service Manual PDF:
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=57865&highlight=service+manual
It’s in Deathace’s sig

Gearing chart spreadsheet (Microsoft Excel):
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1475182&postcount=5

Mid-cowl removal:
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46051&highlight=ram+air

Upper cowl removal:
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=55797

Flapper Mod:
There are 2 flapper mods, the intake flapper mod and the exhaust flapper mod. There is much debate on the efficacy of doing either mod. From my research, I agree with the prevailing view that both were implemented by Honda to meet EPA sound requirements. And here is your legal disclaimer, doing these mods on a street bike is against the law (see the sticker on your swing arm that talks about noise emission control-that is if you haven’t removed it).
·Intake flapper mod-in each of the ram air intake tubes, there is a door (flapper) connected with a diaphragm and solenoid that stays closed at lower RPMs and then opens once the RPMs reach a certain level. The intake flapper mod involves from the simplest level of disconnecting the diaphragm from the flapper door and removing the spring to the more complex level of removing all the flapper components and smoothing out the inside of the ram air tubes.
Begin here:
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=45817&highlight=08+flapper+mod
If you want to go all out finish here:
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=59981

·Exhaust flapper mod-this mod will leave the exhaust flap in the stock muffler in the open position even at lower RPMs. To state the obvious, but it has been asked before, you do not need to do this mod if you are replacing the stock muffler with a slip-on or full system. Important note, DO NOT remove the servo motor.
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46280
If you are a little more ambitious, you can remove the cat too:
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48666

PAIR Mod:
This mod is done to get more accurate results for your air-to-fuel ratio (AFR). This is needed when you are getting your bike dyno’ed, running an auto-tune device with a DynoJet PCV or Bazzaz Z-Fi, a data logger such as DynoJet’s Wideband Commander. If you are just dyno’ing your bike, you can just clamp the PAIR hoses if you don’t want to go through with the mod. As you see in the thread, you can either just remove the hoses and cap off the tubes or you can install PAIR block-off plates. If you install the plates, just be careful as several members have reported breaking the screws when removing the PAIR valve covers.
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53417

US spec Ignition Retard Fix:
There are several options to fix the ignition retard that Honda put into the US spec ECU.
1.The 2 cheapest ways are the DynoJet IRC and Bazzaz Z-bomb. Both are stand-alone devices, but it is highly recommended that they be used in conjunction with some other fuel management device such as DynoJet’s PCIII or PCV or Bazzaz’s Z-Fi because they lean out the bike.
2.A bit more expensive is to use DynoJet’s PCIII or PCV with the DynoJet Ignition Module (IM).
3.The most expensive would be to get an HRC ECU.

Removing the front seat:
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=51553

Reverse/GP shift:
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47576

Passenger peg removal:
This is a bit of a pain, but not too bad especially if you have already installed a fender eliminator. You may want to wait and get the Sato Racing Street Hooks before you do this mod so that you only have to do this once.
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=59031
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46899

HIDs:
High Intensity Discharge lights-Why would you want to install these. People either install these to get brighter headlights, for the possible color of the headlights, or both. If you want to install these for both lights, you will need a dual light kit with slim ballasts. What that means is that the kit will have 2 slim ballasts (these are smaller than the regular size ballasts), and 2 HID bulbs. You will want to order H7 bulbs. The temperature (K) that you order is all personal preference. If you want to save some money, you can order a single kit and just do the low beam.

Dual headlight mod:
If you want to get rid of the single light low beam look, you have 3 options (besides leaving the high beam on).
1.Wire in a device to run the high beam at 40% power when the low beam is on and at 100% when the high beam is on.
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=63693
2.Swap out to H4 bulbs and wire in a relay to run the new bulbs.
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=107894&highlight=bi+xenon
http://cbrworld.net/forums/1/35094/ShowThread.aspx
3.If you want to use HIDs, you will have to do a HID projector retrofit.
http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60297

Dynojet Power Commanders:
The Power Commander III (PCIII) is what is officially supported on the 2008 model. The Power Commander V (PCV or PC5) is officially supported only on the 2009 model. Can you use the PCV on a 2008? Although not officially supported by Dynojet, you can install it on an 08. I remember reading that at least one member who has done this with no problems.
Should you install the PCV instead of the PCIII? Depends upon if you already have a PCIII. If you already have PCIII and don't need the added features of the PCV, then just keep the PCIII. If you don't have one and plan on buying new, you might as well get the PCV as the price is just about the same.

Thank you to all who have contributed to the threads that I have linked to :th_salute:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh yeah, sorry about the long thread. I should've warned you at the start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool........... and thanks. This oughta' be a Sticky.
cool shit rite there man:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::hail::hail:
Thanks guys

Don't forget about the bazzaz zfi and the zafm. That is what I am running and I love it.
I wasn't forgetting about the Bazzaz. It's just that there isn't a version for the 08 and a newer one for the 09 like with the PC. Either one (PC or zfi) make a great mod.
 

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I wasn't forgetting about the Bazzaz. It's just that there isn't a version for the 08 and a newer one for the 09 like with the PC. Either one (PC or zfi) make a great mod.
http://www.bazzazperformance.com/in...facturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26



The Z-Fi CBR1000RR 08

Price: $399.95

It is a plug and play unit that piggy-backs onto the stock ECU. Each unit comes with an application specific harness that utilizes OEM connectors for simple installation, and comes pre-programmed for either the stock exhaust or a slip-on.



Availability

In Stock: 996

^Right from the website.
 

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^Right from the website.
I think he was saying it didn't have its section in the FAQ because there wasn't any questions about 2 different versions and what fit what, while the PCIII and PCV have those questions.

I have a few thoughts on the ignition retard section, but feel free to ignore them if you feel I am biased.

I'd mention that the IM option can not perfectly get rid of the timing retard, due to the way it is mapped, vs the way the timing retard is implemented. The IM is also the only option that is adjustable to allow you to enter in any other timing adjustments you want, although so far there haven't been any real performance gains found by doing timing on mildly modified bikes. The downside of this is that you have to enter in your own map to get rid of the timing retard. And several of the people who have posted up timing maps here have posted up maps I would consider potentially dangerous.

I'd also mention that the IRC is not proven to totally eliminate the timing retard based on dyno results, where the zbomb has been shown to do so. And maybe mention that it and the z-bomb are plug n play, non adjustable.
 

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Good idea that saves time and searching. Well done
 

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Nice Post.

NOW, what if I do remove my Servo motor?
I am running out of room under the seat. I have a Bazzaz system - TC/QS/AFM/Z-Bomb. The main unit goes where the OEM battery was. I am using a lightweight 4 cell battery to start this baby & that little battery fits perfectly where the Servo motor is.

Other then the motor light coming on, what else may happen? Bike seems to run ok with out it. But I have not taken it to the track yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nice Post.

NOW, what if I do remove my Servo motor?
I am running out of room under the seat. I have a Bazzaz system - TC/QS/AFM/Z-Bomb. The main unit goes where the OEM battery was. I am using a lightweight 4 cell battery to start this baby & that little battery fits perfectly where the Servo motor is.

Other then the motor light coming on, what else may happen? Bike seems to run ok with out it. But I have not taken it to the track yet.
You could actually run that way, but you would notice that there is some hesitation at lower rpms. And if there was another error, you may not realize it for awhile since your MIL light would already be on all the time.

What you should do is get one of these. As long as you're fine with cutting wires and soldering, you're good to go. If you want something plug-n-play, PM me as I have an extra one that is plug-n-play.
 

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^^ Your right, it does hesitate at lower rpms. I could live with the light staying on all the time. As we all know nothing else could ever happen to set off the light on our " built with perfection" motor ;-)

U have a pm h82loze
 

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Great thread...especially for the service manual!!!

Now time to take it to work and print it out there :D
 
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