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Coming back to riding after about 8 years away. Planning on getting a low mile 2018 stock 1000rr US version. I don't really do track days but do enjoy the mountain twisties. I have read the US version is capped at 73% throttle.

Is it worth it to get a slip on and get a power commander v for street/mountain use? Is a power commander even worth it if I stay stock? If I get a slip on, would a flash or power commander be better?

I've been searching forums and just need a little clarification. Thnx!
 

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A flashed ECU is the way to go or if you are so inclined buy the software/hardware package and do it yourself.

Exhaust is a matter of personal preference based on sound. looks, and performance gains. Yes you will gain a few HP with a slip on and a few more with a full system (exhaust and headers). Most street bikes will benefit from just a slip on without headers due to the loss of power and lower rpm torque with headers which is where you will mostly be on the street. Headers will benefit race/track bikes as they offer increased HP gains at high RPM range which is where they will be while on the track. Headers are very expensive compared to just a slip on and for the gain on the very top end I personally wouldn't bother on a street bike but many others have gone that route and like the results.

Yes you will benefit greatly even on a stock bike with an ECU flash. US restrictions removed, better/smoother throttle response, more accurate and better performing air to fuel ratios.
Piggy back systems are a thing of the past IMO. They require lots of wiring harnesses and hardware added to the bike, require splicing into the critical factory wiring such as fuel injectors, are limited in what they can change/correct/improve, and are a hassle to install and add to the things that can fail on the bike and make problem diagnosis more difficult.
Only benefit to a piggyback system over an ECU flash is cost (slightly cheaper) and you can make changes without having to send your ECU out to be flashed again.

If you know you wont be changing anything on the bike down the road, exhaust, air filter, engine mods, then go with a mail in flashed ECU and forget about it. Best bang for the buck and super easy. Just tell them your mods and what you want from the flash and youre done. Couple guys on this site offer the service as well as a handful of reputable vendors.

If you plan on modding further down the road, are someone who enjoys tuning your bike perfect, or just want to change things and see what improvements/effects it has then go with the tuning software. In this instance I would recommend an autotune system. They are super easy to use, takes a few minutes to make changes and flash the ECU, have minimal things to install on the bike, and are widely used and offer great customer support. With an autotune system you just ride the bike, the software will take the data from that ride and come up with a correction to AFR's. You apply the change and flash it to your ECU. Simple as that. It will take some time reading the instructions to fully understand what to do but most figure it out pretty quick and it literally takes a few minutes to make changes and flash your ECU.

I personally (as well as many others) went with the Woolich Autotune and couldn't be happier but there are several other options available.
 

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Coming back to riding after about 8 years away. Planning on getting a low mile 2018 stock 1000rr US version. I don't really do track days but do enjoy the mountain twisties. I have read the US version is capped at 73% throttle.

Is it worth it to get a slip on and get a power commander v for street/mountain use? Is a power commander even worth it if I stay stock? If I get a slip on, would a flash or power commander be better?

I've been searching forums and just need a little clarification. Thnx!
Good info from @2015HRC regarding the mod path to follow.

You also answered your own PCV vs ECU flash question in the piece I bolded.

Power Commander is an external sensor signal interceptor and manipulator and assumes the bike has full throttle range available to use the adjusted signal inputs, but the new Fly By Wire bikes are not fuel/ignition map sensor signal restricted - they are throttle body butterfly opening restricted.

Doesn't matter how optimal the sensor signals are that your PCV is sending to the ECU, you will never get to have full throttle until those specific restrictions are edited out of the ECU and replaced with numbers allowing the throttle body butterflys to be fully open.

If you never took a stock SC77 above 11,000rpm you will never know the difference.and kept stock the bike will still be fast and rip like crazy.
In fact I would say that a 100% stock SC77 that was only ridden to 11,000 rpm would be the same if not quicker than a full exhaust SC77 that was only ridden to 11,000rpm.

But if you ever get the hankering to open her up... then you will want all 100% of that throttle range :)

 

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For daily use with a Slip-on and minor mods, PCV is sufficient, you can make adjustments and undo things.

Be careful about flashing, some major flashing companies will lock your ECU to their flash only, you have to pay them to make any adjustments.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A flashed ECU is the way to go or if you are so inclined buy the software/hardware package and do it yourself.

Exhaust is a matter of personal preference based on sound. looks, and performance gains. Yes you will gain a few HP with a slip on and a few more with a full system (exhaust and headers). Most street bikes will benefit from just a slip on without headers due to the loss of power and lower rpm torque with headers which is where you will mostly be on the street. Headers will benefit race/track bikes as they offer increased HP gains at high RPM range which is where they will be while on the track. Headers are very expensive compared to just a slip on and for the gain on the very top end I personally wouldn't bother on a street bike but many others have gone that route and like the results.

Yes you will benefit greatly even on a stock bike with an ECU flash. US restrictions removed, better/smoother throttle response, more accurate and better performing air to fuel ratios.
Piggy back systems are a thing of the past IMO. They require lots of wiring harnesses and hardware added to the bike, require splicing into the critical factory wiring such as fuel injectors, are limited in what they can change/correct/improve, and are a hassle to install and add to the things that can fail on the bike and make problem diagnosis more difficult.
Only benefit to a piggyback system over an ECU flash is cost (slightly cheaper) and you can make changes without having to send your ECU out to be flashed again.

If you know you wont be changing anything on the bike down the road, exhaust, air filter, engine mods, then go with a mail in flashed ECU and forget about it. Best bang for the buck and super easy. Just tell them your mods and what you want from the flash and youre done. Couple guys on this site offer the service as well as a handful of reputable vendors.

If you plan on modding further down the road, are someone who enjoys tuning your bike perfect, or just want to change things and see what improvements/effects it has then go with the tuning software. In this instance I would recommend an autotune system. They are super easy to use, takes a few minutes to make changes and flash the ECU, have minimal things to install on the bike, and are widely used and offer great customer support. With an autotune system you just ride the bike, the software will take the data from that ride and come up with a correction to AFR's. You apply the change and flash it to your ECU. Simple as that. It will take some time reading the instructions to fully understand what to do but most figure it out pretty quick and it literally takes a few minutes to make changes and flash your ECU.

I personally (as well as many others) went with the Woolich Autotune and couldn't be happier but there are several other options available.
Awesome, TY. I finally bought the bike and am now waiting for it. So, I think you and @RC45 have convinced me to go with a flashed ECU. The question is I see a number of vendors on here who offer this service. Which do you recommend? Also, I see that Woolich is another option. Sounds like this is basically flashing your own ECU and then installing an autotune system on top of it? Does Woolich provide the settings to use and the "maps". Since the US version is a detuned European version(I assume), do you just flash it to the European version? Obviously this will be more expensive but I do like the idea of being able to reflash if I change exhaust systems or a slip on.

Sorry for so many questions. Just really excited!

Thanks!!!
 

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Awesome, TY. I finally bought the bike and am now waiting for it. So, I think you and @RC45 have convinced me to go with a flashed ECU. The question is I see a number of vendors on here who offer this service. Which do you recommend? Also, I see that Woolich is another option. Sounds like this is basically flashing your own ECU and then installing an autotune system on top of it? Does Woolich provide the settings to use and the "maps". Since the US version is a detuned European version(I assume), do you just flash it to the European version? Obviously this will be more expensive but I do like the idea of being able to reflash if I change exhaust systems or a slip on.

Sorry for so many questions. Just really excited!

Thanks!!!
When I go to do my ECU, after my warranty expires, going to go with Dano’s Performance.


Scroll down page to see 17-19 ECU Flash For CBR 1000
 

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Awesome, TY. I finally bought the bike and am now waiting for it. So, I think you and @RC45 have convinced me to go with a flashed ECU. The question is I see a number of vendors on here who offer this service. Which do you recommend? Also, I see that Woolich is another option. Sounds like this is basically flashing your own ECU and then installing an autotune system on top of it? Does Woolich provide the settings to use and the "maps". Since the US version is a detuned European version(I assume), do you just flash it to the European version? Obviously this will be more expensive but I do like the idea of being able to reflash if I change exhaust systems or a slip on.

Sorry for so many questions. Just really excited!

Thanks!!!
All the other vendors will be using Woolich to flash your ECU.
If anyone offers to use Flash Tune (FTECU) run, don't walk to the nearest exit. Their process leaves your Honda ECU unable to be flashed by any other method.

Because all the vendors are using Woolich, in the end they are not doing anything that you could not do yourself if you don't mind spending more than double the cost of a mail-in tune.

An ECU flashed with Woolich software should be able to be returned to a stock Honda state using Woolich (or manual means) - all that will be left behind is a total ECU flash count.

Woolich do not provide any pre-configured flash templates, just the means to edit your ECU.
There are however some decent shared flash files available with Woolich MapShare feature.
The Autotune tool is just a mechanism to log AFR data and then use that to make very educated guesses at the needed changes to adjust fuel tables to meet preset AFR values.

edit --- and by "educated guesses at the needed changes" I really mean - load the logs into the desired AFR tabs and look at the rich or lean state as shown and hit the "apply changes" button to edit all the appropriate tables. It is simple but an iterative and at times tedious process.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the comments. I finally received it about 2 weeks ago. Been really working on my shifting since it's been so long. Anyway, I've decided even though I don't go above 11k much, I would like the bike the way it was meant to be. Also, I'd like to install a quickshifter because I used to think quickshifting was "cheating" but having super smooth upshifts all the time sounds amazing. I've heard rave reviews of the HM Plus but they don't make it for 17+ fireblades. If I want to flash the ECU and quickshift, how do you all propose I do that(in what order and what product...oem, dynjet etc)? @RC45 you seem pretty well respected around here so I wouldn't mind if you did the flash.
 

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We tried the HM on the street spec club racer and the HRC ECU Super and even though it is supposed to be direct plug and play it still had a nagging delay, even when coupled with the HRC ECU. But I spoke to 2 European teams that swear by the HM. But both were using Motec ECU setups so that may have been the secret on the 2017.
Honda Racing UK and Ten Kate use the OEM on all their builds. We went back to the Honda OEM and everything was back to normal. For a while Honda had the quickshifter on sale for great discount.

Part number is 08U70-MKF-D40 - Check eBay listings and Partzilla.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
We tried the HM on the street spec club racer and the HRC ECU Super and even though it is supposed to be direct plug and play it still had a nagging delay, even when coupled with the HRC ECU. But I spoke to 2 European teams that swear by the HM. But both were using Motec ECU setups so that may have been the secret on the 2017.
Honda Racing UK and Ten Kate use the OEM on all their builds. We went back to the Honda OEM and everything was back to normal. For a while Honda had the quickshifter on sale for great discount.

Part number is 08U70-MKF-D40 - Check eBay listings and Partzilla.
Thank @RC45. I was leaning toward the OEM direction(no pun intended)Edit: Just got one on Ebay for ~$500(pre tax) Due to arrive this Friday. Does it matter if I get the ECU flashed before or after installing the quickshifter as long as I let them know it has(or will have) as QS installed? Also, do you have time soon to do an ECU in the next 2 weeks? There are a few people here on the boards that do them but you seem to be the most knowledgeable and trusted.
 

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I sent you a DM via the forum. Some times the DM notifications don't popup.
You can either install the QS before or after the ECU flash. But I would be inclined to install the QS while the bike was still 100% stock with regard to unplugged components like PAIR, EVAP, O2 sensor, exhaust servo etc.

Following the Honda QS install guide to the letter and you should be golden. But I mean literally to the letter - if Mr Honda says "1st remove Suzuki sticker from tool box" go ahead and obey LOL :ROFLMAO:
 

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is there any real benefits running a power commander with a ecu flash ?
Not really. The only real additional feature not offered by tuning flashes is secondary injector control. A Euro/Australian full power bike may get an advantage form the PC since the bike is already full power so you get full value from the PC setup.

For a US bike you first have to pay for the flash or full tuning suite ($250 to $700) to get the bike to full power then pay for the PC on top of that and only added benefit is secondary injector control.

I suppose a nitrous / forced induction drag setup may take advantage but then why not just go full stand alone fuel controller by then?
 
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