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Fork rebuild questions

448 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  DannoXYZ
I'm rebuilding the forks on my 2006 CBR1000RR and a lot of people recommend giving the stanchions a very light sand.
I tested out at the bottom with some 2000 grit wet (with water) paper and while it feels completely smooth you can see the sanding marks in the light.
Is this acceptable, or should it be more of a mirror finish?
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Also, I just finished putting one back together. Does this sound right? I'm compressing the fork by hand, and it's louder than I expected. Sounds more like scraping than I expected.
There's no oil being left on the stanchion though, so I'm happy about that.
I do not recommend sanding the fork tube, shock shaft, or any surface that is chrome plated. I know Dave Moss and Doug Brenner show it being done on various videos but the chrome plating is very thin, and with enough sanding you will eat through it and expose bare steel that will rust.
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How was it before sanding?
Absolutely zero need to do it. Only gently file down raised bumps from rock impacts and sand lightly so their edges blend in. That looks really rough, your fork-seals may not last long.
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Thanks for the advice. I decided to not do anymore sanding as there were no bumps or raised bits.
The small part that I tested my sanding on is very smooth to touch, but I'm glad I didn't do it all over the stanchion.

Now that the forks are back together they don't leave any oil behind after a dozen or so pumps.

Here's some pictures comparing the old bushings to some new OEM bushings.



The inside of the outer tube also had some wear marks. I assume from the worn out bushing

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Little bit of wear inside the outer fork tube is not severe to worry about. If you want, you can mark the side of the fork tube where the wear appears and aim it towards the tail end of the bike during fork reinstallation.

Most of the bushing to outer tube contact is at the front facing part of the upper outer tube when you brake and compress the forks.
RaceTech at one point offered a coating service. I dunno if they still do. Might want to inquire if you have any leaking issues. I’m hearing from tubes are hard to come by for our bikes but no idea why since they use a common diameter tube.
My daily driver has 90,000 miles, and I did a repair at 75,000, and no leaks since then. Details here:



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90k milles is really impressive! My goal was to get to 100,000km so I could wrap around to 0km, I'm currently at 55,000km.

Was there anything unexpected that needed to be fixed? I would love to read a write up on the servicing you had to do to get to that point.
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90k milles is really impressive! My goal was to get to 100,000km so I could wrap around to 0km, I'm currently at 55,000km.

Was there anything unexpected that needed to be fixed? I would love to read a write up on the servicing you had to do to get to that point.
I have a write up in those two posts I linked to, if you still have questions, let me know?
I have a write up in those two posts I linked to, if you still have questions, let me know?
I was thinking more about other components on the bike. Like how often you have done valve clearances, if you've have to reshim or replace valves, compression values, transmission wear, oil consumption, any sensors that have gone bad, etc.
Basically, how healthy is a 90k mile bike that has been taken care of.
I was thinking more about other components on the bike. Like how often you have done valve clearances, if you've have to reshim or replace valves, compression values, transmission wear, oil consumption, any sensors that have gone bad, etc.
Basically, how healthy is a 90k mile bike that has been taken care of.
I've had this bike since 2011, and got it with 5,7k miles.
Average MPG: 40, typically riding around at 4-6k RPM max.
Daily commute: 30 miles roundtrip (freeway)
Ridden rain or shine, stored outdoors with a cover.

Engine
Valves: Yes crazy, but I have not checked them, ever.
Air filters: K&N street, cleaned every 6-months (I do not live in dusty conditions)
Spark Plugs: on 3rd set
Stator: went through quite a few of the stock ones in the first 2-3 years; swapped to the newer 2007 flywheel(?) that supposedly helps, but was still burning out the stator. Changed over to a Rick's Motorsports Electric one, on the 3rd one (just replaced at 90k). Rick's changed the windings for better longevity, and I got 25K out of the first one, where as a stock one is probably 10-15K max.
Oil change: full synthetic 4-5k miles, with filter changed every other time (oil changed sooner if the shifting starts to feel grungy). Bike has done burned very much, if any oil. I fill it to the max line at change, and it's at the max line when I change it the follow-on time.
Coolant: Changed 2-3 times (total)
Yoshimura RS-5 slip-on, with Power Commander 3.

Tire: Michelin Pilot Road 3/4/5s
Drive Chain: literally stretched to 20k-30k between changes, which tore up the swingarm protector, so that was changed too. Changed cleaned well every 5k miles; lubed every 2-3k
Fork Seals: as discussed
Rear Shock: still stock (I'm a light rider 150#)

Misc R&R
Speedo pickup swapped around 80k (stopped working)
Front brake light switch connections were corroded at last safety check, cleaned and used silicone grease to seal (100% reliable now)

RECOMMENDATION:
If you ride in traffic, and you bike gets HOT, like the cooling fan is kicking on, and your temp is at 212F, I would recommend doing the cooling fan bypass switch. I have not done it, but I do think it would help with the stator life. Ride after a ride, you cannot put your hand on the stator cover (left side), and after 30 minutes, it's still quite warm. All that heat soak into the windings is what will quickly burn out the stator. I did read about a major project where you can change out the charging system to much newer tech. I read about that a couple years ago, and given that this bike is at the end of it's life, I elected not to invest the time and money (it was probably $300-500, off the top of my head, e.g. wasn't a $50 job).
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I've had this bike since 2011, and got it with 5,7k miles.
Average MPG: 40, typically riding around at 4-6k RPM max.
Daily commute: 30 miles roundtrip (freeway)
Ridden rain or shine, stored outdoors with a cover.

Engine
Valves: Yes crazy, but I have not checked them, ever.
Air filters: K&N street, cleaned every 6-months (I do not live in dusty conditions)
Spark Plugs: on 3rd set
Stator: went through quite a few of the stock ones in the first 2-3 years; swapped to the newer 2007 flywheel(?) that supposedly helps, but was still burning out the stator. Changed over to a Rick's Motorsports Electric one, on the 3rd one (just replaced at 90k). Rick's changed the windings for better longevity, and I got 25K out of the first one, where as a stock one is probably 10-15K max.
Oil change: full synthetic 4-5k miles, with filter changed every other time (oil changed sooner if the shifting starts to feel grungy). Bike has done burned very much, if any oil. I fill it to the max line at change, and it's at the max line when I change it the follow-on time.
Coolant: Changed 2-3 times (total)
Yoshimura RS-5 slip-on, with Power Commander 3.

Tire: Michelin Pilot Road 3/4/5s
Drive Chain: literally stretched to 20k-30k between changes, which tore up the swingarm protector, so that was changed too. Changed cleaned well every 5k miles; lubed every 2-3k
Fork Seals: as discussed
Rear Shock: still stock (I'm a light rider 150#)

Misc R&R
Speedo pickup swapped around 80k (stopped working)
Front brake light switch connections were corroded at last safety check, cleaned and used silicone grease to seal (100% reliable now)

RECOMMENDATION:
If you ride in traffic, and you bike gets HOT, like the cooling fan is kicking on, and your temp is at 212F, I would recommend doing the cooling fan bypass switch. I have not done it, but I do think it would help with the stator life. Ride after a ride, you cannot put your hand on the stator cover (left side), and after 30 minutes, it's still quite warm. All that heat soak into the windings is what will quickly burn out the stator. I did read about a major project where you can change out the charging system to much newer tech. I read about that a couple years ago, and given that this bike is at the end of it's life, I elected not to invest the time and money (it was probably $300-500, off the top of my head, e.g. wasn't a $50 job).
That's for sharing, there's a lot of valuable information here.
Regarding the temperature, my bike does heat up quickly at a standstill especially in Australian weather. It usually tops out at 106°C and the fam brings it back down to 100.
I would like the fan to kick in a little earlier and I've contemplated the idea of adding a second fan to the left radiator, but I haven't investigated that very much. I assume there wouldn't be much space.
That's for sharing, there's a lot of valuable information here.
Regarding the temperature, my bike does heat up quickly at a standstill especially in Australian weather. It usually tops out at 106°C and the fam brings it back down to 100.
I would like the fan to kick in a little earlier and I've contemplated the idea of adding a second fan to the left radiator, but I haven't investigated that very much. I assume there wouldn't be much space.
The solution is wiring in a bypass switch that grounds the circuit. I'm sure somewhere in the forum, there are threads on how to perform the modification.

I think there wouldn't room for a 2nd fan. And then there is the extra wiring, and electrical load. If you're riding in such high temp conditions that a 2nd fan is needed, probably need to switch vehicles. =)
You can actually re-program ECU to turn on fan at lower temp. Also turn OFF deceleration fuel-cut. Makes for much smoother low-speed transitions.
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