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Sprung
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For the general information to all, I was RTFM-ing this morning and noticed that the fuses are under the seat, just where they should be. The small box under the left middle fairing is actually a separate box just to hold spare fuses, contrary to what I was told. Wierd, but cool, I guess. You can find this in your owner's manual on page 196.

Something else nice about the manual are the directions on how to remove fairings and change oil. Only 3.3 US qts for this oil change. Recommended oil is 10W-40 WITHOUT the "Energy Conserving" statement on the API label. I found several oils at WalMart that met that requirement. I'm going with a synthetic blend for the first change, Castrol Syntec 10-40 to be specific.

Not all bikes have the catalytic converter, according to the manual. Only CA bikes do. What it doesn't tell you, however, is how to tell if you have a CA bike.

Last but not least, "Do not pull a trailer or sidecar with your motorcycle." Yeah, no shit, it really says that. :lol:
 

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Sprung
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey, that's cool. 8) The forum automatically puts ** in profanity. Hmmm, wonder what other words it works on. Let's try a few, just for shits and giggles...

ass, asshole, bitch, cunt, dick, ******, pussy, cock, motherfucker, fucker, fuck, fuck the fucking fuckers, twat, twat-waffle, queer, and bastard.

:lol:
 

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you need to go out riding more!!!
:lol:
Thanks for the info didn't know that about the Cata.Conver. nice to know makes the whole slip on thing not sound so bad.
As for the oil not sure what I'm gonna run. Got a whole lot of honda oil(regular 10-40) which I'm gonna use for break-in and the first 2000 miles. Other than that I have not looked into it.
 

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On the synthetic, wait until the 2000 mile mark and be aware that it may cause clutch slippage. Since I havent heard of anyone switching to yet it may be an issue. Synthetic is much slicker and motorcycles use the engine oil on the clutch.
 

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I would recommend Castol Activo. I have been using that oil in my F4i for 10k miles. It dosn't cause clutch problems and the shifting is buttery smooth. $4.50 retail a quart. I have 24k on my bike with no problems at all (could be that its a Honda, though) :D
 

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gRReg said:
For the general information to all, I was RTFM-ing this morning and noticed that the fuses are under the seat, just where they should be. The small box under the left middle fairing is actually a separate box just to hold spare fuses, contrary to what I was told. Wierd, but cool, I guess. You can find this in your owner's manual on page 196.
You need to Re-RTFM. :) I think you are misunderstanding what it says, though it doesn't specify the exact fuses in that panel other than the spares. Under the seat is the Main Fuse, the FI fuse, and spares. Behind the left middle are all the other fuses and spares. I am positive of this, because I had to tear it down to pull them for the track.

Also, everyone has their own opinion, but everything I have ever read suggests you wait until 2,000 miles before switching to synthetic. After that, it's up to you.
 

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Sprung
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I re-RTFM and you are correct, it's very vague about that box behind the cowl. It says there are circuit fuses in there but is not specific as to which circuits. I clearly mentions the spares though, using pictures and arrows and such. :? Seems Honda still can't write a decent manual yet. Now I feel dumb for posting bad info. :(

As for the oil, it's a synthetic BLEND, not straight synth. And after 300 miles the friggin motor is already broken in anyway. Hell, most of the break-in occurs in the first 5 minutes. I will not switch to full synth until 3000 miles, but I would like to improve the shifting action with a slightly better oil. Not that it's bad, it's just a little sticky right now, and hard to shift without the clutch.
 

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No sweat gRReg, with the bikes being so new, everyone's still learning. :thumbup:

A good synth oil definitely helps smooth out the shifting, but coming from the 929, I have no complaints yet. Clutchless, just a little positive up-pressure on the shift lever, and she snicks right into gear.
 
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