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I'm looking to upgrade my suspension on my 08 Fireblade but I don't have $3500 to spend on it, any advice?

I was thinking about maybe trying to find a wrecked 2012-2014 and just do a fork and swing arm swap?
 

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You might want to hit up @LDH, he's the resident suspension expert. I found an Ohlins Cartridge kit from Kyle Racing on eBay for $1135 shipped.

Probably won't have an easy time finding good forks from a wrecked bike, they are usually the part that takes the brunt of the accidents. I have a complete stock suspension from my 2013, ~2k miles, perfect condition, but the forks would be priced in the $900 range and I can't comment on how they compare to the cartridge kit. I went with the complete Ohlins suspension (from Kyle Racing). It's a little stiff for the street but having the correct spring rates made a big difference.

Looking on eBay you can get a 2012+ swingarm and shock together for less than $200:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-16-Honda-CBR1000RR-OEM-Rear-Swingarm-Swing-Arm-CBR-1000-RR-Silver-2013-HRC/264451432083

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-Honda-CBR1000RR-OEM-Complete-Swingarm-Rear-Shock-Axle-HRC-CBR-1000-RR/273907561984
 

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I have 2012, mins looks like the 2015 pic you have up there, that silver hrc is interesting looking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I don't know where you are getting the $3500 from, but for around $1600 you can get a used set of Ohlins cartridges and TTX-GP rear shock. Add another $200 for fluids and correct springs you are good to go. The nice thing about Ohlins from my experience is the huge adjustment range. You can go from soft and comfortable to stiff and responsive with ~22 clicks on the forks and ~40 clicks on the rear shock and unlike stock suspension each click actually does something.
 

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I'm looking to upgrade my suspension on my 08 Fireblade but I don't have $3500 to spend on it, any advice?

I was thinking about maybe trying to find a wrecked 2012-2014 and just do a fork and swing arm swap?



I can get you the 30MM NIX Cart Kit and the latest and greatest TTX-GP SR3 shock for $2300. If you want me to install the Cart Kit in your forks budget an additional $200 for labor and oil
 

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I don't know where you are getting the $3500 from, but for around $1600 you can get a used set of Ohlins cartridges and TTX-GP rear shock. Add another $200 for fluids and correct springs you are good to go. The nice thing about Ohlins from my experience is the huge adjustment range. You can go from soft and comfortable to stiff and responsive with ~22 clicks on the forks and ~40 clicks on the rear shock and unlike stock suspension each click actually does something.



Just because you have 40 clicks of adjustment does not mean you 40 clicks of usable range. If you are more than 4-5 clicks from the standard Ohlins settings something is very very wrong and your Ohlins suspension is not performing anywhere even remotely close to optimal. Anything more than about 6 clicks from the standard Ohlins setting in either direction and you are also going to alter the nose and/or tail of the damping curve to the point it will never work in your favor. If you truly do have a requirement that requires more/less damping outside of those 6 clicks then a revalve is in order to keep the standard settings in the middle of the adjustment range.
 

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Just because you have 40 clicks of adjustment does not mean you 40 clicks of usable range. If you are more than 4-5 clicks from the standard Ohlins settings something is very very wrong and your Ohlins suspension is not performing anywhere even remotely close to optimal. Anything more than about 6 clicks from the standard Ohlins setting in either direction and you are also going to alter the nose and/or tail of the damping curve to the point it will never work in your favor. If you truly do have a requirement that requires more/less damping outside of those 6 clicks then a revalve is in order to keep the standard settings in the middle of the adjustment range.
Could you elaborate on the revalve? I've heard Dave Moss say to always keep the COMP and REB adjusters on the TTX shocks within 2-3 clicks of each other so the valving will work properly. How could you keep the settings in the middle of the adjustment range when the recommended settings (booklet) on the rear shock is already at the stiff end (13R/10C)? Rebound I'm able to keep it near recommended but the standard compression is incredibly stiff for the street to the point where it's unrideable for commuting.
 

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Some TTX-GP shocks come with factory settings that are already further apart than 2-3 clicks combined


The settings are not at the "stiff end" they are in the middle of the correct range of adjustment. Thousands of riders both street and track have zero issues with those standard settings on Ohlins TTX shocks so if yours is unrideable then I would be looking at other possibilities starting with spring rate and sag numbers.
 
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