[cooch]

I purchased a set of 2007 used front brake rotors on ebay that came off of a 2007 1000rr in late November of 2008.I just installed them on my 2006 1000rr.Now my brake lever grabs hard then when I roll the bike a little I hit the brakes and the lever goes right to the throttle.I bled them over and over again some thing.Grabs hard then roll hit brakes again and right to the throttle.I had to walk away from the bike because I was cursing like a mad man.I figured i would post here before I go back for round two.

 

[Justin1000RR]

Have you bled the master cylinder?

 

[cooch]

Have you bled the master cylinder?

I have bled the master cylinder and the brake gets hard as hell.I roll the bike a few feet hit the brakes on and off as I roll and it gets closer and closer to the throttle until no brakes at all.I cant figure it out what I am doing wrong.I am not going to go at it again until I have some idea what I am doing wrong any help would be appreciated

 

[Justin1000RR]

If it firms up and then gets spongy, there's either air still in the lines or air is getting in somewhere. Have you checked for leaks? Rebleed left caliper, right caliper then master. Are you using speed bleeders? They make bleeding 100 times easier.

 

[Pipeline714]

I take it you didn't have this problem with the brakes before changing out the rotors? So, if that was the case, somewhere in the process of changing them out and bleeding them and the MC, you got air in the lines. They could even be microscopic bubbles, but they will cause problems. +1 on the SpeedBleeders though! Put them on the calipers and MC and you'll spend less than 5 minutes bleeding the system and you'll know it's air free.

 

[cooch]

I take it you didn't have this problem with the brakes before changing out the rotors? So, if that was the case, somewhere in the process of changing them out and bleeding them and the MC, you got air in the lines. They could even be microscopic bubbles, but they will cause problems. +1 on the SpeedBleeders though! Put them on the calipers and MC and you'll spend less than 5 minutes bleeding the system and you'll know it's air free.

Brakes were working fine before I replaced rotors.Soon as they were on I noticed the problem with the brake going to the throttle.That's when I decided to bleed the brakes but it made no difference.Could it be the rotors are bad? being that they are used.I called Brad ordered some speed bleeders might even order some wave rotors if I can.

 

[Justin1000RR]

Just in case you didn't already notice, the front calipers are Tokico and the rear it Nissin. Tokico's use bleeder SB7100S, Nissin use SB8125L. Also, on Speedbleeders website it lists SB7100S for the master cylinder, this is incorrect. It uses the SB8125L.
I learned this the hard way when installing Spiegler lines on my 06', the SB7100S is too small for the master.

 

[red02f4i]

Sounds like a warped/bent rotor to me. When you roll the bike, the rotor is pushing the pads back into caliper, so the next time you pull the lever, the pad has to travel further before it makes contact with the rotor again. Put the bike on stands and spin the front wheel. If it's not straight, you should be able to tell.

 

[cooch]

Sounds like a warped/bent rotor to me. When you roll the bike, the rotor is pushing the pads back into caliper, so the next time you pull the lever, the pad has to travel further before it makes contact with the rotor again. Put the bike on stands and spin the front wheel. If it's not straight, you should be able to tell.

I think you are correct about the rotor being warped.

 

[cooch]

Just in case you didn't already notice, the front calipers are Tokico and the rear it Nissin. Tokico's use bleeder SB7100S, Nissin use SB8125L. Also, on Speedbleeders website it lists SB7100S for the master cylinder, this is incorrect. It uses the SB8125L.
I learned this the hard way when installing Spiegler lines on my 06', the SB7100S is too small for the master.

I never realized it until you just mentioned it about the two different manufactures front and rear.My observation skills need to be sharpened.Thanks for the info on the speed bleeders.

 

[red02f4i]

I think you are correct about the rotor being warped.

Even if it's not warped, there is some kind of alignment problem. If everything worked fine before, and all you did was change the rotors, how would air get in the system?

If you don't have stands, you should be able to feel it through the lever if you hold it in while you roll the bike.

 

[LDH]

Sounds like a warped/bent rotor to me. When you roll the bike, the rotor is pushing the pads back into caliper, so the next time you pull the lever, the pad has to travel further before it makes contact with the rotor again. Put the bike on stands and spin the front wheel. If it's not straight, you should be able to tell.

Yup +1

 

[red02f4i]

Ever get this figured out?

 

[trachito]

Sounds like a warped/bent rotor to me. When you roll the bike, the rotor is pushing the pads back into caliper, so the next time you pull the lever, the pad has to travel further before it makes contact with the rotor again. Put the bike on stands and spin the front wheel. If it's not straight, you should be able to tell.

thats exactly what it is. i'm willing to bet a cup of my urine on it.

 

[cooch]

Ever get this figured out?

I ordered Speed bleeders and a set of Galfer wave rotors from superbikesupply.I tried to cut corners and bought a used set of rotors off of ebay and I wasted my money and my time.When the new rotors come

i will post pics

 

[demonRR]

buddy had this same exact thing happen on his 600rr.

turned out he put the spacers on the wrong sides and caused warped the rotors first hard brake on the track. whooppppssss.

just a thought

 

[cooch]

buddy had this same exact thing happen on his 600rr.

turned out he put the spacers on the wrong sides and caused warped the rotors first hard brake on the track. whooppppssss.

just a thought

Are you talking about the wheel spacers ?

 

[demonRR]

Are you talking about the wheel spacers ?

yes

as soon as he set up for T1 from the straight, instantly warped the rotors and felt the pulsation in the lever. pulled off the track and we inspected the front. i bled the system 5 times trying to remedy the issue thinking it was it. nope.

that was the end of his day. this justhappened after a new set of rubber was put on his bike and the tire guy did the full install and put the wheel spacers on the wrong sides.

 

[cooch]

yes

as soon as he set up for T1 from the straight, instantly warped the rotors and felt the pulsation in the lever. pulled off the track and we inspected the front. i bled the system 5 times trying to remedy the issue thinking it was it. nope.

that was the end of his day. this just happened after a new set of rubber was put on his bike and the tire guy did the full install and put the wheel spacers on the wrong sides.

That had to be what happened to me but they must have already been damaged when I purchased them on ebay because I just wheeled the bike a few feet and felt that something was wrong.I never road the bike.But the way you explained it is my symptoms exactly.However I will double check my spacers when I put on the new waves just to make sure.
I will never again buy used rotors. I tried to go cheap and now its going to end up costing me $580 when it should have been $430

 

[demonRR]

ive bought a couple set of rotors before. but they were from members on here that coud be trusted. 99% of the ppl on this site and "the other one" stand behind everything they sell, myself included.