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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Folks,

My CBR is just about due for an oil change, and this time I want to pull the clutch plates out to inspect them and see if I can’t determine what is causing my clutch to slip.

I have a pretty good idea what to look for, but for reassembly, is there anything particular I should do? Do I need to soak the plates in oil again since I’ll be wiping them off for inspection?

Also - and I’m about to google this -is there a way I can test the springs to make sure they are not faulty?

Shaun
 
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When you evaluate a clutch, plate condition is important, obviously, but you also need to be aware of the clutch stack height.

The service manual will give the spec. Most bikes need to be within a range that's about .5 mm ....and it has to be within that range to work properly. This is usually where we get let down with aftermarket plates. Often times the thickness doesn't match .

The same manual usually has a spec for the spring. The springs are evaluated by their length. They tend to collapse over time and become shorter. As cheap as they are, I usually replace mine as it makes me feel better. That's the truth....not because I needed to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When you evaluate a clutch, plate condition is important, obviously, but you also need to be aware of the clutch stack height.

The service manual will give the spec. Most bikes need to be within a range that's about .5 mm ....and it has to be within that range to work properly. This is usually where we get let down with aftermarket plates. Often times the thickness doesn't match .

The same manual usually has a spec for the spring. The springs are evaluated by their length. They tend to collapse over time and become shorter. As cheap as they are, I usually replace mine as it makes me feel better. That's the truth....not because I needed to.
Thanks for all the info! I have the shop manual, and I'll use it to take measurements once I have everything torn apart. Seeing as how the tolerance for the stack height is so low, is it best to ensure they are completely free of oil prior to pulling out the caliper to measure the stack height?

My springs should be good to go. I have a thread about this, but my clutch started slipping with less than 5k on the clock. I don't race, track, wheelie, anything. So I'm assuming I have some factory defect somewhere in the clutch pack, as the slack in the lever is spot-on to what the shop manual says it should be.

Shaun
 

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To make absolutely sure there are no other factors. What oil did you put in the bike? Did you use any oil additives (Marvel Mystery Oil, Seafoam, etc)?

I've always measured my clutch stack dry prior to wetting them and installation.

Also, check the clutch judder spring and seat. Specs for individual sets of plates are different, so it's important that you measure each individual plate and compare it to the reference range in the service manual. That may help pinpoint the issue.

As I've mentioned before, 5k miles wearing out the clutch in the way you describe is very rare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
To make absolutely sure there are no other factors. What oil did you put in the bike? Did you use any oil additives (Marvel Mystery Oil, Seafoam, etc)?

I've always measured my clutch stack dry prior to wetting them and installation.

Also, check the clutch judder spring and seat. Specs for individual sets of plates are different, so it's important that you measure each individual plate and compare it to the reference range in the service manual. That may help pinpoint the issue.

As I've mentioned before, 5k miles wearing out the clutch in the way you describe is very rare.

The oil that is in there now is Rotella T6, and I haven't used any additives whatsoever.

So after reading multiple threads and watching some clutch replacement videos, I think I'm going to defer this to either the dealer or a local mechanic if I can find one. I don't have the confidence I need to do this properly and not mess something up. The shop manual calls for some specific specialized tools that I also do not have.

Shaun
 

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If you need the clutch holder tool, I have the OEM one and would be happy to lend it to you via USPS. It gets attached to a breaker bar that can rest on a foot-peg while you loosen the main bolt.

Also, do not bother trying to un-stake the central nut. I've found that it makes no difference because it's actually staked so far in all you'll do is risk marring up the shaft.

The nut is a softer metal than the shaft, so I found you can force it off with a long breaker bar with zero damage to the threads on the shaft. You will need a new nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you need the clutch holder tool, I have the OEM one and would be happy to lend it to you via USPS. It gets attached to a breaker bar that can rest on a foot-peg while you loosen the main bolt.

Also, do not bother trying to un-stake the central nut. I've found that it makes no difference because it's actually staked so far in all you'll do is risk marring up the shaft.

The nut is a softer metal than the shaft, so I found you can force it off with a long breaker bar with zero damage to the threads on the shaft. You will need a new nut.
Thanks Blade, much appreciated. The tools are honestly just another layer of uncertainty. I've never removed a clutch before, and I'd much rather do it on a bike that has no consequence if screwed up before I mess with my CBR. Even if I had the tools on hand here, I'd still defer it to someone with the requisite skills..even with the shop manual, I'm not at all confident I can do this successfully. I'm grateful for the offer, though!

Shaun
 

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Hey Shaun,
Where are you located? I have the 2017 model which should be the same clutch, and have been many a clutch in earlier models. I have the tools. Would be happy to give you some help and experience if you are anywhere near San Diego. :)
 
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