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Per Troy Siahaan on motorcycle.com, this is possible on a 2019:
5 Things You Need To Know About the 2020 Honda CBR1000RR

If I am not mistaken, the 2017 does have the option of turning TC completely off.

Mo was able to do a dyno run with TC turned on as well.

So maybe a dyno run is possible on a Stock 2017 ?

Please educate me.
From what I understand, they will do 1-3 dyno pulls before the TC interferes if you set the TC to 0. After that, you have to cycle the ignition and do it again. I would like to dyno my bike to see what a filter akra headers and E85 are worth, so I might be splicing the front wheel speed sensor in to the rear wheel speed sensor so they get the same signal. I will let everyone know if it works.
 

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Ok. So, I spliced the signal wires for the front wheel speed sensor into the rear wheel speed sensor wires and did a quick test ride. It reports speed accurately and no check engine lights. It will be a while before I can dyno mine, but I think this will fix the TC issue. I HIGHLY recommend only doing this temporarily with spade connectors for the dyno as it will effectively disable TC, Wheelie Control, and ABS.
 

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They are full of shit.

Period.

The bike is pulling power as you can see by the dyno.

When we say "you cant dyno a 2017 to 2019 SC77 CBR without disabling the front wheel wheel speed sensor, what we mean is "You cant dyno a 2017 to 2019 SC 77 CBR1000RR without disabling the front wheel speed sensor".

Their fucked up dyno chart and absurdly low number is proof of this.

From what I understand, they will do 1-3 dyno pulls before the TC interferes if you set the TC to 0. After that, you have to cycle the ignition and do it again. I would like to dyno my bike to see what a filter akra headers and E85 are worth, so I might be splicing the front wheel speed sensor in to the rear wheel speed sensor so they get the same signal. I will let everyone know if it works.
Having TC at 0 or 9 has no impact on the process. This is literally why Woolich spent so much time working on the SC77 in 2017 - because the front wheel speed sensor error needs to be disabled to successfully do a proper full dyno pull.

The correct way would be to run your front wheel speed sensor to the rear wheel.
Been there done that for the Superbike I just built as the 1st Gen HRC ECU has no way to account for the static front wheel.

2nd Gen HRC ECU has a mechanism to enable dyno mode and get both Front and Rear wheel speed from the same sensor - turn on bike with throttle open and pull clutch lever 5 times.

 

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They are full of shit.

Period.

The bike is pulling power as you can see by the dyno.

When we say "you cant dyno a 2017 to 2019 SC77 CBR without disabling the front wheel wheel speed sensor, what we mean is "You cant dyno a 2017 to 2019 SC 77 CBR1000RR without disablign the front wheel speed sensor".

Their fucked up dyno chart and absurdly low number is proof of this.


Having TC at 0 or 9 has no impact on the process. This is literally why Woolich spent so much time working on the SC77 in 2017 - because the front wheel speed sensor error needs to be disabled to successfully do a proper full dyno pull.

The correct way would be to run your front wheel speed sensor to the rear wheel.
Been there done that for the Superbike I just built as the 1st Gen HRC ECU has no way to account for the static front wheel.

2nd Gen HRC ECU has a mechanism to enable dyno mode and get both Front and Rear wheel speed from the same sensor - turn on bike with throttle open and pull clutch lever 5 times.

I appreciate the insight. We are learning this stuff together. I'll be sure to share the dyno chart when I get one and see what you think. I hope splicing them together does the trick. On a side note, where do you put the tach lead for the dyno?
 

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I appreciate the insight. We are learning this stuff together. I'll be sure to share the dyno chart when I get one and see what you think. I hope splicing them together does the trick.
But we are covering ground already covered and answered 3 years ago.


Ok. So, I spliced the signal wires for the front wheel speed sensor into the rear wheel speed sensor wires and did a quick test ride. It reports speed accurately and no check engine lights. It will be a while before I can dyno mine, but I think this will fix the TC issue. I HIGHLY recommend only doing this temporarily with spade connectors for the dyno as it will effectively disable TC, Wheelie Control, and ABS.
How do you figure this if you are not seeing any DTC?

And if you are adding an Akro exhaust and running E85 how do you propose to tune the fuel tables to compensate for all these changes?

Pull tach signal from pink wire on the blue ECU plug.
 

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But we are covering ground already covered and answered 3 years ago.

Nobody could have learned everything there is to know about the 17-19's already. But I'm sure you know most of it.


How do you figure this if you are not seeing any DTC?
Since it can't read the front wheel speed right now, if the front wheel locks up, the ABS will do nothing to stop it as long as the rear is spinning because it is only receiving a signal from the rear speed sensor for both wheels. I don't think I have ABS so it doesn't matter much to me. Wheelie control is based on front to rear speed ratio because the IMU doesn't affect WC, so that won't work. TC may continue to work in a limited capacity based on the IMU data and rear wheel speed acceleration at lean angle, but with the front speed sensor being "faked"to match the rear, I wouldn't trust it to work properly. As I said, only for dyno use.

I am using a Frankenstein fuel management system consisting of Flash Tune ECU software, Power Commander 5, and Power Commander autotune module with wideband O2 to adjust to target AFR's. Once it logs enough fuel trims, I input the trims into the ecu to attempt to reach +-5% fuel trims in all cells.
 

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Since it can't read the front wheel speed right now, if the front wheel locks up, the ABS will do nothing to stop it as long as the rear is spinning because it is only receiving a signal from the rear speed sensor for both wheels. I don't think I have ABS so it doesn't matter much to me. Wheelie control is based on front to rear speed ratio because the IMU doesn't affect WC, so that won't work. TC may continue to work in a limited capacity based on the IMU data and rear wheel speed acceleration at lean angle, but with the front speed sensor being "faked"to match the rear, I wouldn't trust it to work properly. As I said, only for dyno use.
My question was a leading question. I know exactly how the bike works.

The point here is the system will still work exactly as designed.

It will respond to differences in the front and rear wheels speeds, IMU acceleration data and transmission counter-shaft speed.
The fact that there are no differences in speed now will not cause the system to fail, it will still work exactly as designed - the results you experience may not be what you expect them to be but the system will be fully functional as designed :)

I am back to my other question, how do you plan to deal with the obvious fuel and timing changes needed to be made for the full akro exhaust and running E85?
 

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My question was a leading question. I know exactly how the bike works.

The point here is the system will still work exactly as designed.

It will respond to differences in the front and rear wheels speeds, IMU acceleration data and transmission counter-shaft speed.
The fact that there are no differences in speed now will not cause the system to fail, it will still work exactly as designed - the results you experience may not be what you expect them to be but the system will be fully functional as designed :)

I am back to my other question, how do you plan to deal with the obvious fuel and timing changes needed to be made for the full akro exhaust and running E85?


I'm not really explaining the tech details to you; more for the benefit of others reading. I have no doubt, you are more knowledgeable than me on this topic. I think we are replying at the same time making for a confusing thread, so I will pause for a while after this. My explanation is in my last post.
 

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I'm not really explaining the tech details to you; more for the benefit of others reading. I have no doubt, you are more knowledgeable than me on this topic. I think we are replying at the same time making for a confusing thread, so I will pause for a while after this. My explanation is in my last post.
I read and answered your explanation.
And I was being pedantic on purpose here because I am confused why you are going to all this convoluted trouble to trick the bike when all you need to do is disable the front wheel speed sensor with the very same tuning software you are going to need to be able to tune the bike to deal with the Akro exhaust and E85.
 

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I read and answered your explanation.
And I was being pedantic on purpose here because I am confused why you are going to all this convoluted trouble to trick the bike when all you need to do is disable the front wheel speed sensor with the very same tuning software you are going to need to be able to tune the bike to deal with the Akro exhaust
The bike is already tuned and runs great. I know Whoolich is better in every way, but I am happy with my tune and just want to be able to dyno it.
 

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The bike is already tuned and runs great. I know Whoolich is better in every way, but I am happy with my tune and just want to be able to dyno it.
So your bike has an FTECU tune?
Then it wasn't actually tuned properly.
I am still not sure why this is still not understood.
 

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In my opinion, it's not tuned properly until you tune each cylinder with a wideband O2 in every header pipe, but that is not practical or affordable. I am making the best of what I have. The OP wanted to know how to dyno a stock bike and I think we have come up with at least two solutions for them.
 

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To what end are we dynoing a stock bike though? The base number is already well established and we know the reason for the flat top end from 10,500rpm to 13,600rpm is because of the nerfed ETV table that restrict throttle opening to 73%.

I believe the OPs question was in the context of the motorcycle.com dyno run purporting to be accurate. So why motorcycle.com publish a speculative article about the power output of the SC77 is beyond comprehension.

And if the dyno run is to establish a baseline for tuning then the tuning software will take care of all the needed intricacies. I have personally dynoed a number of SC77s (and had folks from around the world test dyno runs for me) all report that the bikes shut off on the run down and skew the number the dyno system reads.

Hell I have even had RR-R folks already contact me to confirm this is STILL an issue with the RR-R and that the only way to do this properly is with some sort of front wheel speed sensor trickery - a method which you have just demonstrated will be needed to dyno your biek as it stands.

Cliffs:
So my argument is not with you as you try to get your bike dynoed as is and your creativity is commendable and I wish you good luck in your endeavor, my argument is really with the motorcycle press that keep the misinformation flowing :ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Their fucked up dyno chart and absurdly low number is proof of this.

I spoke to the owner of Lee's Cycle in San Diego and he mentioned that HP number is what he's been seeing as well on stock sc77's. Mine is a California sc77 so maybe they are the most restricted of all sc77's ?
I think Lee's Cycle has the Dynojet model 250F which is possibly the same one MO used also.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have personally dynoed a number of SC77s (and had folks from around the world test dyno runs for me) all report that the bikes shut off on the run down and skew the number the dyno system reads.
That is what I was looking for!
RC45, what numbers did you see for stock sc77's ?
If mine is close to it, I am happy. 150 or so ?
 
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