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Discussion Starter #1
So like the title says just got the full system(went with the Akra evolution titanium), and I want to get as prepared as possible for when Bauce is working on it so I'm trying to get my must have parts list down so I have everything ready by the time my appointment in March hits.

So: Exhaust ✔
But what about everything else?
BMC Air filter? or K&N Racing air filter? What are the differences(if any) why/why not?
I've also heard that its a good idea to replace the ram air intake ducts/pipes, if so which ones would my fellow SP2 owners recommend?

Is there anything that I'm missing that you guys would add? My aim for this bike is street AND track and would like to get the most power I can SAFELY out of it, BUT for good reason dont want to be missing anything? Any help on the matter will be greatly appreciated that way I can make sure to do it right the first time!😊
 

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You’re going to need a tune. That model has been a nightmare with countless problems reported over and over regarding the difficulty of getting it properly tuned. It’s been a minute, but IIRC Woolich was the only tune that was compatible. I’d double check that, though. Regardless, I’d research tuning shops in your area and make sure they’re familiar with the peculiar traits of that model.
 

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So like the title says just got the full system(went with the Akra evolution titanium), and I want to get as prepared as possible for when Bauce is working on it so I'm trying to get my must have parts list down so I have everything ready by the time my appointment in March hits.

So: Exhaust ✔
But what about everything else?
BMC Air filter? or K&N Racing air filter? What are the differences(if any) why/why not?
I've also heard that its a good idea to replace the ram air intake ducts/pipes, if so which ones would my fellow SP2 owners recommend?

Is there anything that I'm missing that you guys would add? My aim for this bike is street AND track and would like to get the most power I can SAFELY out of it, BUT for good reason dont want to be missing anything? Any help on the matter will be greatly appreciated that way I can make sure to do it right the first time!��
How far are you willing to go modifying the bike physically?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So like the title says just got the full system(went with the Akra evolution titanium), and I want to get as prepared as possible for when Bauce is working on it so I'm trying to get my must have parts list down so I have everything ready by the time my appointment in March hits.

So: Exhaust ✔
But what about everything else?
BMC Air filter? or K&N Racing air filter? What are the differences(if any) why/why not?
I've also heard that its a good idea to replace the ram air intake ducts/pipes, if so which ones would my fellow SP2 owners recommend?

Is there anything that I'm missing that you guys would add? My aim for this bike is street AND track and would like to get the most power I can SAFELY out of it, BUT for good reason dont want to be missing anything? Any help on the matter will be greatly appreciated that way I can make sure to do it right the first time!��
How far are you willing to go modifying the bike physically?
The only thing I can't really touch right now is engine internals BUT I am willing to, like I said I want it to be street AND track so not a full wsbk conversion BUT I would like 180-190whp if possible(would be happy at just over 180).

I know the bike can do far more but my primary concerns are down time, cost of labor, and doing the power in a way where it doesn't damage the bike itself. What do you have in mind?

Also to answer the first reply, Bauce will be doing the woolich tune, they have a really decent amount of experience so I trust them with my baby!👍
 

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The only thing I can't really touch right now is engine internals BUT I am willing to, like I said I want it to be street AND track so not a full wsbk conversion BUT I would like 180-190whp if possible(would be happy at just over 180).

I know the bike can do far more but my primary concerns are down time, cost of labor, and doing the power in a way where it doesn't damage the bike itself. What do you have in mind?

Also to answer the first reply, Bauce will be doing the woolich tune, they have a really decent amount of experience so I trust them with my baby!👍
Yeah he has done a couple of SC77s but.... I know he never knew about the killing of the Torque Management and he needed to be convinced of the order of mods/tuning based on lessons learned with Dee's bike. ;)

Ask him if he plans of recalling all his Woolich/SC77 customers to reapply their tunes to address the Torque Management issue :stirpot::gay: and if so, is he goin to be charging folks :stirpot:>:)

As for power - 180rwhp on an SP2 is pretty easy to geet. The lions share of that power will come from full exhaust and tune. Smooth intake tubes is a bigger deal due to the structural job the stock tubes perform holding all the shit together and all the race smooth intake tubes are designed for race fairings not stock fairings.

Stick with the Honda air filter, "race filters" wont do anything except allow the bike to ingest particulates. Extensive back to back tests lead Ten Kate to this conclusion a while back. Intake trumpets are a debatable gain - best combined with a slew of other mods even though other tuners and engine builder make it seem that intake tubes are a huge power gain on their own. Again, having discussed this topic wit Ten Kate at length conclusion was its just a check box item to say "I have everything money can buy in this motor" unless a slew of other mods accompany them.

As for going into the engine, cams will be the biggest gain. But what ever cams you use will be somewhat of a compromise compared to the HRC cams unless you have a large budget. HRC top end internals for the SC77 are oddly expensive.

$600 per cam gear, $200 per camshaft and $2000 for non-adjustable cam chain guide expensive.
 

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You can easily remove the rubber restrictors from the stock intake tubes. The Euro bikes don't have them. The resonators need to stay in place to hold the fairings I believe, but maybe you could duct tape them from inside the intake. In theory it will create a smoother intake charge, but I don't know if that will make any performance difference.
 

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You can easily remove the rubber restrictors from the stock intake tubes. The Euro bikes don't have them. The resonators need to stay in place to hold the fairings I believe, but maybe you could duct tape them from inside the intake. In theory it will create a smoother intake charge, but I don't know if that will make any performance difference.
Yes, this is a basic step along with the tune and exhaust and does in fact remove a significant intake volume restriction. The addition of full smooth fiberglass or carbon intake tubes are a further performance gain however the support role the stock tubes play on the stock fairing along with the lack of simple front smooth tube to fairing interface is what makes a full swap to race intake tubes easier if you ditch the street fairings and dedicate the bike to track use :)

I have been down this path a 100 ways from Sunday to try get a compromise street/track modified setup and honestly the simplest for a street bike is to stop short of all the pieces that make the bike track dedicated even though the last steps actually bring the biggest weight and savings and performance gains.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You can easily remove the rubber restrictors from the stock intake tubes. The Euro bikes don't have them. The resonators need to stay in place to hold the fairings I believe, but maybe you could duct tape them from inside the intake. In theory it will create a smoother intake charge, but I don't know if that will make any performance difference.
Yes, this is a basic step along with the tune and exhaust and does in fact remove a significant intake volume restriction. The addition of full smooth fiberglass or carbon intake tubes are a further performance gain however the support role the stock tubes play on the stock fairing along with the lack of simple front smooth tube to fairing interface is what makes a full swap to race intake tubes easier if you ditch the street fairings and dedicate the bike to track use <img src="http://www.1000rr.net/vb/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

I have been down this path a 100 ways from Sunday to try get a compromise street/track modified setup and honestly the simplest for a street bike is to stop short of all the pieces that make the bike track dedicated even though the last steps actually bring the biggest weight and savings and performance gains.



So in other words, go big or go home. You either make a wsbk or keep with slight improvements? And let me make sure I understand this right, aside from ram air intake block off rubbers(would be nice if someone had a part I could buy for that if possible), the real performance gains are from the full system, flash, AND cams?

What are the more major things that you would do to the track only bike you wouldn't do to a hybrid street/track? Better yet, how far would you take the project to in my shoes? In my shoes currently I lack the know how, and space to be able to do a cam job at home so say I don't go with cams, what would your next step be without the cams? Keep in mind Bauce is the closest thing I have to an actual shop that can work on this bike, the "premium" Honda dealerships in my area are a total joke and are afraid to even touch the bike.
 

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This thread is starting to remind me of that Elmo meme where he snorts the “buy more parts” cocaine instead of eating the healthy “more seat time” fruits.
 

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So in other words, go big or go home. You either make a wsbk or keep with slight improvements? And let me make sure I understand this right, aside from ram air intake block off rubbers(would be nice if someone had a part I could buy for that if possible), the real performance gains are from the full system, flash, AND cams?

What are the more major things that you would do to the track only bike you wouldn't do to a hybrid street/track? Better yet, how far would you take the project to in my shoes? In my shoes currently I lack the know how, and space to be able to do a cam job at home so say I don't go with cams, what would your next step be without the cams? Keep in mind Bauce is the closest thing I have to an actual shop that can work on this bike, the "premium" Honda dealerships in my area are a total joke and are afraid to even touch the bike.
There is no part to buy. You are removing rubber stoppers. See this thread for pics and more details. https://www.1000rr.net/forums/1000rr-mods-upgrades/246913-2017-1000rr-ram-air-ducts.html

As far as cams and other internal engine work, that's a whole different can of worms. Talk to Dee (DeathCBR) about that. https://www.1000rr.net/forums/modifications-upgrades-12/246777-death-cbr-sp2-build.html

Most people here are doing exhaust, flash, and open intakes. (also maybe an air filter, debatable benefit) Some have also done stainless steel brake lines, and/or an upgraded master cylinder.

When it comes to flashing, you can have it done, or get the woolich kit and do it yourself. There are several "good enough" maps uploaded to woolich mapshare that would probably give most of the benefit you'd get from custom dyno work or even doing woolich autotune.

I think one of our illustrious members I won't name said he could do the flash for you as well.......
 

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So in other words, go big or go home. You either make a wsbk or keep with slight improvements? And let me make sure I understand this right, aside from ram air intake block off rubbers(would be nice if someone had a part I could buy for that if possible), the real performance gains are from the full system, flash, AND cams?

What are the more major things that you would do to the track only bike you wouldn't do to a hybrid street/track? Better yet, how far would you take the project to in my shoes? In my shoes currently I lack the know how, and space to be able to do a cam job at home so say I don't go with cams, what would your next step be without the cams? Keep in mind Bauce is the closest thing I have to an actual shop that can work on this bike, the "premium" Honda dealerships in my area are a total joke and are afraid to even touch the bike.
Go big or go home Only in the context of "the most HP possible".

But the most practical and easily achieved first steps setup for an SP2 is (with a caveat at the end):


* Full exhaust, PAIR, EVAP and exhaust Servo delete.
* O2 delete so you can improve your tune over time with Woolich Autotune.
* Intake tube clean up (remove rubber restrictor plates, plug resonator and water drain holes (unless you plan on wet weather riding).
* Pull fuse to disable ABS (if you plan on running really hard track times/pace).
* Flash ECU using Euro ETV tables as a base and dyno tune (or mail-in tune) your ECU for the exhaust and better intake breathing.

*Go ride the now completely new personality bike.


=================
The caveat is wait until the SP2 fixed Woolich is released or you will have to revisit your tuner when the fixed code is published.
=================

This SP2 here is modded as above (it also has a few other doodads, braided brake hoses, Brembo master, rearsets etc):

After the above mods, the next step is the "Go big or Go Home" and that is installing cams that can really exploit the SP2 cylinder head.

The HRC route is unreasonably expensive and incidentally, none of the BSB or TT SP2 ran the HRC cams, they ran Cosworth cams ground very similar to the HRC cams.

The above videod SP2 is now my development bike and I will be doing cams and will share the results. The build is a little delayed as I did not want to rip the bike apart until after we had completed the Woolich Torque Management fix testing.
 

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EVAP is North American and similar emissions managed market only, charcoal filter fuel vapor recirculation system.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Any idea when that fixed Woolich is scheduled to release? It would be nice to get it done right and not have to revisit it for a while. Also if I remember correctly I should wait to touch most of this stuff until the flash is done correct?
 

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Any idea when that fixed Woolich is scheduled to release? It would be nice to get it done right and not have to revisit it for a while. Also if I remember correctly I should wait to touch most of this stuff until the flash is done correct?
Yes - it is somewhat of an issue with the SP1 and base models if you remove emissions components before flashing - but for our SP2s it will hard error lock the ECU if you try start and run the bike with certain components unplugged.

We were supposed to get the new SP2 code this week to test but no word yet. I will confirm later today but I think the base model fix is already in this new 7.2.8 version.

It seems the fixed SP1 and SP2 code is not yet in the current build.
 

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Any idea when that fixed Woolich is scheduled to release? It would be nice to get it done right and not have to revisit it for a while. Also if I remember correctly I should wait to touch most of this stuff until the flash is done correct?
Yes - it is somewhat of an issue with the SP1 and base models if you remove emissions components before flashing - but for our SP2s it will hard error lock the ECU if you try start and run the bike with certain components unplugged.

We were supposed to get the new SP2 code this week to test but no word yet. I will confirm later today but I think the base model fix is already in this new 7.2.8 version.

It seems the fixed SP1 and SP2 code is not yet in the current build.
Oh sweet, my tuning/work date for the bike is in March(stuck in a New England winter) so by then it should be out.

What was happening on the old version that is corrected in the new?
 

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Oh sweet, my tuning/work date for the bike is in March(stuck in a New England winter) so by then it should be out.

What was happening on the old version that is corrected in the new?
Essentially the Torque Management was internally disabled if the emissions equipment was disabled via ECU flash.
 

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The only thing I can't really touch right now is engine internals BUT I am willing to, like I said I want it to be street AND track so not a full wsbk conversion BUT I would like 180-190whp if possible(would be happy at just over 180).

I know the bike can do far more but my primary concerns are down time, cost of labor, and doing the power in a way where it doesn't damage the bike itself. What do you have in mind?

Also to answer the first reply, Bauce will be doing the woolich tune, they have a really decent amount of experience so I trust them with my baby!👍
I used Bauce and Anthony knows the bike well. He has done several 2017 + Hondas issue free. Given you are in the local area, the best thing is to take your stock bike to Bauce and let him use Woolich to disable everything and put everything on. Technically, you could put the exhaust on and just leave the exhaust servo connected.

Similar to what folks are saying, I would only do the following items ( if you are on budget )
* full exhaust
* remove the re-stricter plugs in the stock intake tubes
* i would get a high performance air filter

do this can call it the day ... if you got deeper pockets ... there are other things you can do but it will be costly !!!

check my thread for ideas if you like. My bike is still running strong :)
 
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