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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve got question regarding older liter bikes. Rn I’ve got some Q4’s on my 06 1k and I love em but I think I have a problem. I’m not sure if it’s because of colder weather but I feel like I get a lot of rear tire spin. Under hard/snappy acceleration the bike revs up but doesn’t accelerate as fast as it should. I haven’t been able to ride this bike much this summer so I’m doing all my testing in fall. It feels like the longer I ride the problem gets a little bit better. I haven’t experienced the front end trying to come up on me yet tho. The tires are broken in now...I’m just trying to get an understanding of this is what pre “modern” 1ks are like
 

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It's nothing to do with modern or pre-modern. It is just that either your roads are slippery, or your clutch is slipping.
What is your rear tire pressure? How cold is it? Does your clutch seem healthy?
 

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Stand your ground
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If your bike is not leaned over in a corner it is highly unlikely that you are getting wheelspin. Most likely a clutch slip issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’ve had the idea that it could possibly be some type of air in the slave cylinder. The bike had the problem when I bought it. I put a new clutch pack in and that didn’t work so I swapped the tranny with one I know is solid. It’s been cold here about 65° F and cloudy and the fact that I’ve never used q4s made me suspicious. I run my chain a little on the tighter side so I can rule out it skipping teeth.
 

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SuperMod
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...
Under hard/snappy acceleration the bike revs up but doesn’t accelerate as fast as it should.
...
My guess is the clutch slipping if the bike revs up noticeably and the bike doesn't accelerate.

I think if you had that much tire slippage you'd notice it the rear getting squirmy.
 

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You don't need to run your chain tight. I would loosen it up. Tight is bad. It's not going to skip teeth.
I forgot the old CBR1k's had a hydraulic clutch. If you have not bled your clutch, you should do that. But, if it's poorly bled I think that would cause the clutch to not disengage properly, not the other way around.

Honestly no offense meant but it should not be too difficult to differentiate wheel spin from clutch slip. If you can't tell maybe have a buddy test it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
HP the fact it’s my first liter bike, I already did clutch and tranny ,bled clutch or cold weather plus track tires is why it was throwing me off. It took me having to tear my bike down plus being on these forums for months to just learn that the slave cylinders are notorious for going bad on these. I’m learning to do this for myself so I gotta do what I gotta do 💪
 

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SuperMod
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IMO, having air in the hydraulic clutch lines will cause the clutch not to disengage. That is, you pull in the lever and the clutch won't pull apart far enough to disengage. It won't cause it to slip. What's holding the plates together are the clutch springs.
Are you sure things are assembled right?

Here's what honda says:

Clutch Inspection:
Accelerate Rapidly, shift from first to second.
Did the engine speed change accordingly when clutch was released?
No?
- Clutch is slipping
  • Worn clutch discs / plates
  • Warped clutch discs / plates
  • Weak clutch spring
  • Additives in engine oil (you didn't put car oil in there, did you?)

IMO, points to the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There’s no stack height spec pre 9th gen. Unless I measured it rn idk correct off the top of my head the manual is pretty straight forward on the plates you get are the plates you use. Pretty much got it nailed down to the slave cylinder now.
 

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Stand your ground
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As posted before, the slave cylinder will not cause a clutch slippage issue. It would only cause a clutch disengagement issue. What oil are you using?
 

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Were you able to determine how the slave cylinder was causing the issue? That is definitely a new one on me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It’s weird it worked well for about 10 min I could snap on the throttle and it was fine but then I turned it off and again I can’t snap the throttle without slipping
 

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SuperMod
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as @saiyan66 asked, what makes you think it was the slave cylinder?

I am thinking it's possible that the piston in there is rusted and maybe doesn't slides all the way back.
Is that what's happened?

Now that this has come up, I recall that due to the master cylinder being bad, my clutch fluid had a lot of water it, causing rusting of the slave cyliner's piston. I rebuilt mine.

Slave cylinder rebuilt kit is not that expensive. maybe that's what you need to change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I had a dif slave near me that I picked up and threw on but now I’m back at the same problem. Tranny is good, clutch pack all in spec and order, Honda 10w30 motorcycle oil and clean hydraulic clutch. Like I said above all I can think about is air in the slave or lines. I got a zip tie holding it open rn so we’ll see tomorrow if that helps even tho there’s great clutch feel already
 
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