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Discussion Starter #81
Thanks, JD.

Incidentally, is there a way to turn ON low beam as a Daytime Running Light? Looks like by default, the LowBeam is turned OFF when the sensor detected that there is enough light.
 

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Incidentally, is there a way to turn ON low beam as a Daytime Running Light? Looks like by default, the LowBeam is turned OFF when the sensor detected that there is enough light.
Whoa. I can't help with this one. Our UK/Euro bikes are hard wired for low beam to be on when ignition is turned on. I am no good with electrics, but one of the guys might be able to advise you from the wiring diagram in the back of the 2017 - 18 Service Manual (which has kindly been linked to by members on here)
 

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Vendor - The SC77 Specialist
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Incidentally, is there a way to turn ON low beam as a Daytime Running Light? Looks like by default, the LowBeam is turned OFF when the sensor detected that there is enough light.
You sure you don't have the high beam switch on when you're starting the bike?
The light sensor on the dash is to auto switch the dash between dark and light background depending on the ambient light if in auto background.
 

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Vendor - The SC77 Specialist
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OK ... I signed on the dotted line as a smiling owner and rode it back from a neighboring state.
Congrats.

Flickability: I'm sure why the SP is more flickable than my 2005 Base cannot be just the drop in 20+ lbs in weight, can it? Perhaps, it's the Ohlins suspensions. I also suspect that the location of components (i.e. their weights) matters and that yielded a more maneuverable bike. In terms of flickability, it felt like a CBR600RR with a hidden 998cc powerhouse.
Its the weight loss and weight distribution - even the base bike feels this nimble.

TBW: Throttle-by-wire felt very linear in the way it communicated my inputs to the throttle. If there's a few milliseconds delay, it wasn't detectable by me or any other human. I picked up this kind of delay from my BMW M235xi so I know how it felt.
It is pretty much instant.

Throttle feedback: More linear and not as raw as my 2005 CBR100RR but I was only using Mode2 (things may change if I use Mode1 or tweak with other parameters). The predictability due to the linear acceleration (in Mode2) conjures up confidence and greatly improves bike's trustworthiness when I call on it for torque.
Its not raw in stock form by design - the stock throttle mapping is very soft and progressive. This is true for all markets. Stock SC77 even in P1 will never hit hard.

EB (Engine Braking): I love this when the traffic slows down in the freeway. Very thoughtful & usable feature.
Honda have cleverly used throttle mapping to have the ability to reduce engine braking on demand by selecting the appropriate settings.

Clutch : back to cable clutch? What's wrong with the hydraulic clutch?
Hydraulics are heavy and lack feedback - this is where some of that 20lbs weight savings come from.

Brakes: Its initial bite is not quite there but once it engages, it is normal. Perhaps, the brakes are not broken-in yet.
Possibly, but I noticed the stock pads are more street than attack friendly. As always there are a number of pad options to up the brake aggression if you so choose.

Exhaust Note: Music to my ears and I will never swap it out to the coarse and harsh sounds of aftermarket ones. Honda should record it and put it on their website, just like BMW did for all their bikes. At idle, it has does have the same Bavarian reverberating low frequency smoothness, which BMWs are famous for. Believe it or not, BMW have acoustic engineers to tune it so they sound nice, not just perform well. Apparently, Honda is aware of a quality exhaust note:
Thing is there is a good 10lbs weight that can be shed with a full Titanium setup - and there are couple decently quiet aftermarket exhausts. Ironically the stock Honda exhaust is too loud for most sound limited race tracks.

Initial electronic startup sound: It quite loud. The mid-frequency humming (after the ECU does it POST tests) is noticeably loud.
I believe you are hearing the dash.

Verdict: Did Honda's claim for better Total Control work? I'd say a definite Yes. Because the bike's power, torque, weight, sway behavior, even ground feedbacks, behavior negotiating a curve at speed, all seemed more polished than my 2005 CBR1000RR.

Thanks, folks, for urging me to make this decision. It is a good product, I now agree with you.
And in stock form you're riding the "big 600cc" version :ROFLMAO:(y):coffee:

Congrats again and have fun !
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Oh, so it's not my tinnitus?:unsure: :D
ha ha ,,,:ROFLMAO: from the side-effects of riding on US freeways.

[..]
And in stock form you're riding the "big 600cc" version :ROFLMAO:(y):coffee:

Congrats again and have fun !
Thanks for the responses. They are helpful.

Congrats on the new bike Art! My bike is only seven weeks old and I’m already envious.
Jim,
You blazed a 2018 CBR1000RR path for me to follow along through the experiences you shared and I look up to you.

UPDATEs

  • Loud humming Dashboard (before cranking engine): This has disappeared after the bike cooled down overnight from the long ride. I'll keep this in view. It did not sound like the radiator fan. May be there're smaller fans for the LED headlights.
  • Low Beam headlight (not ON): It turns ON only after I crank the engine, not before (like my 2005 CBR). User's error. Sorry.
Thanks!

Geiger-counter-like clicking sound

When I insert the key and turn ON the dashboard (without cranking the engine), there is a continual series of Geiger-counter-like clicking sounds (that comes in groups) emanating from under the seat near the front area. (see attached)
Seems like that is the IMU and the vicinity of the IMU.

Is this normal?

UPDATE:
After I crank the engine and engine runs for a a few minutes and I turn OFF the engine and turn ON the dashboard only, the clicking frequency dropped to like a couple every 25 secs or more.
 

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Congrats on the new bike Art! My bike is only seven weeks old and I’m already envious.
 

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OK ... I signed on the dotted line as a smiling owner and rode it back from a neighboring state.

Initial impressions of 2018 CBR1000RR SP ... coming from my experiences with my 2005 CBR1000RR.
The bike was a dry bike when I bought it with zero miles. Service dept had to do initial prep and fill up all the fluids and test drive and check it.

Configuration : Set it on Mode2 for the journey back just to get acquainted.
Tires: I'm impressed by the Diablo Supercorsa tires, they feel better than the Dunlop Q3+.
QS: The Quickshifter is very nicely integrated into the system, very smooth, indeed; compared to the DynoJet QS and PC5 on my 2005.
Flickability: I'm sure why the SP is more flickable than my 2005 Base cannot be just the drop in 20+ lbs in weight, can it? Perhaps, it's the Ohlins suspensions. I also suspect that the location of components (i.e. their weights) matters and that yielded a more maneuverable bike. In terms of flickability, it felt like a CBR600RR with a hidden 998cc powerhouse.
TBW: Throttle-by-wire felt very linear in the way it communicated my inputs to the throttle. If there's a few milliseconds delay, it wasn't detectable by me or any other human. I picked up this kind of delay from my BMW M235xi so I know how it felt.
Throttle feedback: More linear and not as raw as my 2005 CBR100RR but I was only using Mode2 (things may change if I use Mode1 or tweak with other parameters). The predictability due to the linear acceleration (in Mode2) conjures up confidence and greatly improves bike's trustworthiness when I call on it for torque. In short, the linearity of the acceleration reminded me of my test drive on a Tesla with the Ludicrous Mode turned ON.
EB (Engine Braking): I love this when the traffic slows down in the freeway. Very thoughtful & usable feature.
Clutch : back to cable clutch? What's wrong with the hydraulic clutch?
Brakes: Its initial bite is not quite there but once it engages, it is normal. Perhaps, the brakes are not broken-in yet.
Exhaust Note: Music to my ears and I will never swap it out to the coarse and harsh sounds of aftermarket ones. Honda should record it and put it on their website, just like BMW did for all their bikes. At idle, it has the same Bavarian reverberating low frequency smoothness, which BMWs are famous for. Believe it or not, BMW have acoustic engineers to tune it so they sound nice, not just perform well. Apparently, Honda is aware of a quality exhaust note:
Initial electronic (Dashboard) startup sound: It quite loud. The mid-frequency humming (after the ECU does it POST tests but before I crank the engine) is noticeably loud.
Signal Light Placement: I'm eternally grateful for where Honda has placed these, like modern cars. Perfect choice.
Verdict: Did Honda's claim for better Total Control work? I'd say a definite Yes. Because the bike's power, torque, weight, sway behavior, even ground feedbacks, behavior negotiating a curve at speed, all seemed more polished than my 2005 CBR1000RR.

Thanks, folks, for urging me to make this decision. It is a good product, I now agree with you.
Congrats on the new bike, enjoy. 🍺
 

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Discussion Starter #91
Anyone?
 

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I think you'll find it's fuel pump and other systems 'cranking up'. You might also hear a 'whirring' type sound. I've never been concerned.(y)
 

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Probably fuel pump but may be servo for exhaust restriction
 

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Discussion Starter #94
I'm OK if electronics are resetting devices but the clicking continued indefinitely if I don't crank the engine.
Hope it's not shorting out.
I'll definitely bring this up for the 600 miles service, if it's still there.

VIBRATIONS (@ Mode 2)
I noticed that it did resume to exhibit the vibrations on the hand-grips and foot pegs. I can kinda narrow it down to between 2K-4K RPM range where it is more pronounced.
The temperature of the engine may reduce it when it is at normal operating temperature but I cannot be absolutely certain this is true all the time.

OEM bar-ends are around 4.4oz (including the bolt) each.
I found aftermarket one that's around 10 oz. Will report back after I try it on the SP.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
One thing that really gets to me are unusual or unexpected noises in my cars or bikes.
 

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One thing that really gets to me are unusual or unexpected noises in my cars or bikes.
After a 100 mile ride today I pulled into my garage and shut the bike off. I turned the key back on shortly after for some reason or another (maybe 5 minutes passed) and heard the exact same Geiger type clicking you describe on my 2019 SP in the exact same location, sounds like it was coming directly from the IMU ...it's been off a few hours now, I am going out to put on the OEM tank bag and I'll listen for the clicking and, if present, the frequency.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Thank you for your confirmation, now I know I'm not crazy. Yes, you are right, I've also narrowed down to the IMU vicinity.
May be we weren't told that it's nuclear-powered. :ROFLMAO: :geek:

Does RevZilla sell leaded-suits ?
 

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Thank you for your confirmation, now I know I'm not crazy. Yes, you are right, I've also narrowed down to the IMU vicinity.
May be we weren't told that it's nuclear-powered. :ROFLMAO: :geek:

Does RevZilla sell leaded-suits ?
Clicking noise gone, but there was a definite hum, originating from the IMU area...

Once the bike starts, I can't hear any of it, no warning lights are flashing, probably normal behavior.
 
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