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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I have been working on this bike and am currently stalled...
2004 CBR 1000RR

Bike was running perfect, shut it off for 5mins to make a stop and then would not start again. No other symptoms at all.

Been following the factory service manual and trying to diagnois the problem. Problem is no spark.. Everything else checks out fine. Fuel pump turns on, kill switch works, tip over sensor works and not faulty, engine cut off relay works and transfers power, clutch switch good, kick stand switch good. Motor cranks fine, all connections and connectors are intact and not corroded. Checked wires for continunity and they all check out good, no open connections.

This brings me to where I am at...

Ignition coil primary peak voltage testing.. I bought a blue point peak voltage adaptor to attach to my DVOM. I do exactly as the manual states found on page 18-5. Now I dont have a ecm test harness but I am back probing the connectors with ecm connected. i do not get battery voltage with key on, nor do I get any voltage when cranking at the ecm connectors. However if I test the connector at the direct ignition coils I get the battery voltage with key one but still no peak cranking voltage.
2 questions

Why doesnt the peak voltage adaptor work? :shoot:
Why do I read battery volts at the direct ignition coil but not the ecm? :th_SmlyROFL:

This is where I am stuck I have replaced the ecm and still no spark:sad010:, I have tripple checked everything and still nothing. Any ideas why my adaptor does not work? I know the older blades like the 929 have ignition switch problems but with the 2 wire ignition switch on the 1000rr I am sure I ruled this out.

Any and all help/input is very appreciated, talk to you guys soon.
 

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Was the bike up to operating temp before you shut it off? I am not sure why your adaptor doesn't work, can tell you that mine doesn't work either. Seems you have to have Honda's diag tool and I just don't want to spend the $. How are you testing for spark other than with meter? How do the sparkplugs look? Are you running any type of quickshifter, ignition module, etc?
 

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Bark like a Dog
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peak voltage adaptor,aka inductive tester that fits over the stick coil? if so,coil would have to fire before it reads anything. i would think if you have a 12v/ground at the coils but no spark,you would be looking at the trigger side,primary has to be interrupted before any secondary induced voltage/spark occurs. do you hear injectors "clicking"? i would probably be looking at the engine speed sensor and verifying a signal from it,then doing the same for the cam sensor. sometimes spraying a little brake clean (cooling sensor) will wake up the sensor if it's like a tiny break in the sensor that opens when hot,couldn't hurt to try.
good luck sir!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
more info..

So some one posted a problem with their fuel injector wiring harness being faulty and there are some shared power wires with the ignition system. This guy said his shop replaced that wiring harness and everything worked fine. So I disconnected all the main wire harness connectors and cleaned them out and reconnected them, next thing I had spark. But I unfortunately do not know which connector was the culprit.

Even tho I do have spark, I checked with the tester. The tester works now and I have varying readings on all four cylinders. From 62v to 90v and everytime I test them I get a different reading. The main thing tho is that those numbers are below the 100v minimum. So i know there is still a problem but I still can't find it. I have tripple checked all power wires and grounds, I have ran resistance tests on all wires and everything is normal!!

Since I had spark I thought I would at least make sure she starts up. Started up fine, runs good, but has a slightly odd exhaust note (which I think is from the weak spark) So I put her all back together and go for a test ride, plenty of power runs fine but then will not pull past 8-9000RPMs in any gear. So I know its the weak spark and I have her tore down again, I am currently hunting through the harness for any defects/corrosion/terminal probs. etc.

We have ran the V.I.N. for any specific recalls or warranty issues with no leads. We have talked to other dealerships in the area and they are just as stumped as us. We have also used a different ECM with the same readings.

So has anyone had wiring harness issues at all? :cool: Thanks for the replys.
 

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Is the bike completely stock? It's not running a hrc ecu is it? Also, when she was running, could you tell that she was running on all 4 cyls?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Stock ECM and liek I said we tryed another one with same results. Bike came in with a Rapid Bike but we have had that disconnected for the entire diagnostic process and will not hook it back up until the bike is "normal" again. Yes bike was/is firing on all four but when it cuts out at 8K who knows what its doing. Looks like we are going to put it on our dyno to we can test spark while its running. Only thing I'm worried about, if its the weak spark thats not letting it power over 8k then on the dyno the engine might not build up enough load to have that problem. But we will see, any other ideas?
 

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I've seen the connectors pull out of the plugs at the fuel injectors. I've had to fix 2 or 3 before because of the 8-9k rev problems. Also have seen quickshifters screw everything up but you don't have anything like that.
 

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possible bad ground somewhere. You keep saying you are using an ohm meter to check the wiring (you keep using the word resistance), but keep in mind that an ohm meter can pass a circuit that does not have full potential. I would load check the powers and grounds with a headlamp bulb if it were mine. ...and probe them, don't backprobe them because terminal contact is not on the back side of the connector.
 

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Bark like a Dog
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might want to take an infared non contact thermometer to the header pipes to see if it is a problem affecting all the cylinders or just one,or if your dvom has a contact pyrometer probe,use that.
voltage drop is a much better method of checking wiring akin to MR Goodwrench's suggestion. also basics like comparative ohm all the injectors,if the issue happens at higher rpm's might be something with the upper set ,if one's shorted it could pull down the voltage for the rest of them and anything else sharing the same power supply.
 

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anything ever come of this?
 

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Make sure the stator and rectifier are working properly. I had exact same issue as I pulled to a light to stop . Pulled clutch in and boom dead. Wouldn't fire back up . I pulled stator cover off to visually look for burnt coils. After I tested the stator with a volt meter, it tested within range. Still wouldn't fire. I pulled cover to make sure. Sure enough stator had top 3 coils burnt and melted together. I replaced stator and no issues now. Shot in the dark . But have u had the battery load tested. My 07 gsxr was notorious for electrical problems frying the rectifier and sending
Bad signals to the stator and melting stuff. T ur battery could be just strong enough to crank the bike but not to start It. I had that issue before also. Battery volt meter tested perfect. Took to a shop for load test and it load tested at 10% but charged to 100%. Borrow a buddy battery and test in ur bike to make sure. I can't See it being a sensor as the bike was running. Battery , stator , rectifier triple check those. I think one or more is ur issue. I know guys that any electrical problems they will replace battery stator and rectifier at the same time . Then they can know it has to be a sensor.

Your bike was running. Which is good. If ur getting goofy readings ur stator is possibly shot. Battery stator and rectifier are all needed to fire and run the bike . Make sure the main ground cable is good and tight.
 

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a d m i n
2018 Honda CBR SP
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Make sure the stator and rectifier are working properly. I had exact same issue as I pulled to a light to stop . Pulled clutch in and boom dead. Wouldn't fire back up . I pulled stator cover off to visually look for burnt coils. After I tested the stator with a volt meter, it tested within range. Still wouldn't fire. I pulled cover to make sure. Sure enough stator had top 3 coils burnt and melted together. I replaced stator and no issues now. Shot in the dark . But have u had the battery load tested. My 07 gsxr was notorious for electrical problems frying the rectifier and sending
Bad signals to the stator and melting stuff. T ur battery could be just strong enough to crank the bike but not to start It. I had that issue before also. Battery volt meter tested perfect. Took to a shop for load test and it load tested at 10% but charged to 100%. Borrow a buddy battery and test in ur bike to make sure. I can't See it being a sensor as the bike was running. Battery , stator , rectifier triple check those. I think one or more is ur issue. I know guys that any electrical problems they will replace battery stator and rectifier at the same time . Then they can know it has to be a sensor.

Your bike was running. Which is good. If ur getting goofy readings ur stator is possibly shot. Battery stator and rectifier are all needed to fire and run the bike . Make sure the main ground cable is good and tight.
The OP hasn’t signed on to the forum for 10 years, but I am sure, wherever he is, he appreciates your response. :giggle:
 
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