Some say it’s a curse And I should take something to blunt my sensors!Wow! I must be a friggin' useless rider and rank minus 50 on the sensitivity scale, OR have hyper-compensatory skills.
Between 10 bikes, none of which are set up professionally and have remained as purchased, I can barely tell the difference. All credit to you for that ability.
The stocker S21 were simply unforgettably awful, to the point the whole bike felt like a huge sping, and I was chasing ghosts with the suspension settings. Jesus Christ, what a revelation and huge diference the Q4 are.Unfortunately for me, my brain & body seem to be hyper sensitive to motorvehicle performance aspects. It would have been easier on my pocket if they weren't
In this instance, the difference in bump absorption was night & day (michelin pilot power > pilot power 3). Initially I felt the change was a bad & expensive mistake but once the dust had settled, I felt the back end absorbs the bumps in a more controlled way and less bouncy, so in the end I am happy with the change.
I won't bore you about other handling aspects I noticed
I might end up contacting the specialist who set the bike up once people are back at work
From the limited info you gave on the cause for your concern with suspension settings and mainly being due to a tire type/manufacturer change I would suggest focusing on tire pressures.
Check the tire pressure cold (before riding) and record both front and rear psi numbers. Go ride the bike as you normally do for a while (30min-40min) and immediately check tire pressures again. Record numbers.
The psi change should be within 4-6 psi (I believe, might have to look this up). If the difference is less than this range you need to drop your tire pressure, if its above this range you need to add some pressure. I make psi changes of a few pounds, 2-3 psi at a time. As you get closer your psi changes will be less.
What you are doing is setting the size of your contact patch. More air in the tire = less contact patch, less air = bigger/wider/more contact patch. The smaller the contact patch the less heat you will put in the tires, the bigger patch the more heat. This is critical for both acceleration and braking traction as well as tire wear and longevity
Note that you will need to start with a cold reading on your next ride and follow the above procedure. May take several days/rides to get it dialed in correctly but I do this almost every ride so it just becomes a habit as ambient temperatures and riding style will play a factor and only takes a few minutes.
If after your first ride and tire pressure check you find you need to add/subtract tire pressure you can still do so immediately with a warm tire and go ride to see the feel difference but the cold-warm tire pressure difference should not be recorded and used as a measurement for change because the "cold" tire pressure is now actually warm tire pressure as it takes a while for the tires to cool down after riding.
Hope that makes sense
I've never had an issue getting heat in my tires on the street even when it's below 50 degrees out. I run 32psi front and 28 rear most of the time. Excellent traction, good tire wear.Yes, in a controlled environment. If you go for a ride, even 40 min and you don't push hard, have some lean, get on it, don't be surprised you will not see 4 PSI raise, especially with street tires.
Don't overthink it. No need for more than 33/34PSI rear, 32/33 front for street riding. OK, IF you are on the heavy scale, 250+ up it a little on the rear.